^ so what's your advice for a good setup?
I'm looking to push over 600whp( that's my aim)...
what should i go with?

 

Anything that can provide enough spark at the levels of boost you will be running.. Generally its a combination of a good coil and a good CDI box..

The reason I personally chose the HKS DLI-II was because I wanted to try something different, I have a home-built COP setup using motorcycle coils and a motec CDI unit, its triggered using a DSM Ignitor. I took it off the car quite awhile ago because of the difficulty I had finding connectors that plugged into the stock harness and the wiring I made kept coming loose.

Originally I figured the DLI-II wouldn't impress me, and I'd salvage the connectors off that harness for my setup, but realized something that made the DLI-II work quite a bit better than a regular CDI.. Ignoring the downfall of the stock coils, the DLI-II provides a very stable signal output to trigger the coils using the ignitor, it also boosts the voltage to the positive side of the coils.. But what makes it interesting is it can at lower RPM, repeatedly trigger the coils (Multiple spark discharge) so at idle and lower load, the car just runs smoother and doesn't stumble, it also makes it easier to ignite fairly lean or fairly rich mixtures at idle so you don't get that hunting as much (or misfires) The other benefit is at higher RPM's, the HKS creates a spark that has more duration (Dwell) than a regular CDI unit, so a hotter/bigger/longer spark is exposed to your combustion mixture, pretty much guaranteeing that the ignition will happen when its first triggered and therefore you won't find the variance in ignition that you would get on a stock car (why some cars will take more ignition advance than others at high RPM)

Does that mean I'm entirely sold on the DLI-II, Well, no.. Losing a single coil means your down 2 cylinders, I still prefer a Coil on Plug setup, However I think a COP addon for the HKS DLI-II (both being plug and play devices, and can be done in stages using buschur's parts) would be the best of both worlds IF IT WORKS RIGHT, in other words, and I would like to test this combination at some point using off-the-shelf components and not my custom and specialized hardware.

If you want something that will work at 600hp, you definitely need a CDI of some sort, if the combo works well that i want to try, then I would suggest doing it that way. But for the time being, knowing th AEM has its few shortcomings with reliability, I'd have to recommend the COP/MSD-DIS2 configuration until we can determine if the HKS-DLI-II will also function similarly at those levels.

 

Dave, not asking for freebies or anything, but I could test and review the base COP setup with the DLI-II if you need someone to run this configuration for awhile.. Let me know..

 

Hey Jack, would an idnition upgrade help with a P0300 code? I'm thinking this code may be triggered by some peoples cam setup and the lopey idle. If the CDI helps low RPM ignition stability it might help alleviate the problem.

- Steve

 

Malibu,


AL is using the HKS DLI on his car and making BIG HP and it is working like a champ for him . Look at the Turbo magazine of this month.

 

Since both setups are plug and play type wouldn't it be a little more cost effective to go with the Buschur COP set up first and then if and when you might run out of spark the HKS unit will be a nice add on.

 

Well, I have seen low RPM idle get more stable on my car, but never experienced any P0300 code so its hard to say. My honest opinion is the more cards you can stack in your favor, the less trouble you will have. Will it solve the problem? Not sure, but it certainly can't hurt. Anything you can do to improve the ignition signal should help. A grounding kit and even an ignition upgrade are fairly cheap insurance even if you can't percieve they help any.

 

yes, I noticed that, I also recall he has run different setups over time.

Its obvious that as long as the ignition will fire, the car will run great, my only sore point with the stock ignition is two of the cylinders are coil on plug, and two are wire.. I honestly think it should be one or the other. I also consider a single coil per two plugs to be somewhat of a failure point. You can get away with getting home if 3 of your cylinders are firing, but running off of two.. well, I've had it happen and the car will barely run.. I also believe that you want to use a direct coil on plug if at all possible to eliminate any chance of losing the quality of the discharge through a defective wire, or loose connections...

Ultimately, if it aint broke, don't fix it.. Some cars just have coils that work well, and don't need much help.. My car wasn't one of them, even at the stock boost levels I was running, but became painfully more obvious as I started experimenting with the limits of the stock components.

 

it might have been, but I was looking to resolve some issues with misfiring at idle primarily, and a CDI has always helped me in the past. I was getting misfires at higher boost, but most of the time I ran stock boost levels and didn't frequently get frustrated by it.

 

I would agree 100% with malibu on the DLI. On my car not only did it get rid of high rpm break-up but the idle, tip-in, boost transition were all greatly improved. Other thing I noticed even on lower boost (25psi) each pull was much more consistant feeling with the DLI over the stock ignition. Also, I can run the cheepie copper plugs now instead of the IW's I was running to get the stock ignition to work.

 

On the DLI-II, is there a dip switch to select input trigger edge?

 

Not that I know of, I have yet to take the cover off though.

 

thanks forthe advice malibjack..
i think i'd start off with the coil on plug setup first....use it like that for a while..
and then research what booster i should use...whether it be the MSD or the HKS

 

No dip switcheson the HKS DLI2, just plug it in and go.

The COP we have can be put on and run right just as it comes to you. Whoever said that later if you need more spark you can then wire in the MSD DIS box is absolutely correct, at that point I don't think there is a better ignition anywhere for any money.

About the misfires from the COP you made yourself. It could be from a couple of things actually. Our COP by itself does NOT misfire at part throttle but by itself will not support huge HP levels. Wired in directly with the MSD DIS box the COP's on the EVO's will get some misfires and weird driveability. There is one more part that needs to be added:0)

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I didn't even think an MSD wired into the EVO's COP would work due to the integral ignitor. The MSD input triggers on the wrong edge compared to the EVOs output trigger, so you need something like a 1G DSM ignitor wired in between to invert the trigger edge, so the timing is correct. Then it should work (or maybe even a tach adatper to raise the signal).

The AEM C2Di has a trigger edge selection dip switch, so it should work without an ignitor in between.

This is all assuming stock ECU.

Some AEM EMS boxes also need a transistor mod so they pull down far enough to trigger a C2Di without an ignitor, but should be able to trigger direct by changing the ign invert settings.