mini battery kits
First, you don't need a kit. You can just bolt the mini-battery up in your stock location and it works just fine. However, many of us want the things to look nice under the hood. If that is the case with you, you will be impressed with the new Nisei mini - battery kit. It is less money than the Buschur kit and looks really nice.
i'm sorry if this is only slightly related... but those of you with minibats... do you have a problem with ALMOST stretching your positive terminal wiring? is there anyone that can come out with a way to fix this... i mean is wire extentions the only way?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by trinydex
i'm sorry if this is only slightly related... but those of you with minibats... do you have a problem with ALMOST stretching your positive terminal wiring? is there anyone that can come out with a way to fix this... i mean is wire extentions the only way?
John
All I can say is I'm glad I'm not just now copying the idea of a mini battery kit, glad we did it first.
Anyway, couple of things.
Putting the battery in the rear of the car does change the weight around, as someone said. Big deal. The weight savings on the entire car will be nothing, as using a small battery in the trunk will not work out well, too much cable and many people have reported the cars being hard to start like this.
The battery kit that we have, you know the one everyone else is thinking of doing now, takes 20 pounds off the nose of the car but still keeps the battery in the front. This eliminates the need for the battery shut off switch in the rear of the car. As I say, putting the battery in the rear of the car is going to actually end up adding weight as the battery will more than likely end up being either the stock heavy part or another larger battery, then you have the weight of all the cable, junction box up front and the cut off switch. Not a good way of doing it in my opinion.
Also, I don't think the other company offering these kits, nisei, is cheaper than ours. They were cheaper as they offered a lower priced battery. We were forced to do this also, using the Odyssey 680 now for guys that want cheaper. Ours kits dropped $30 by using this different battery.
We use an aluminum tray for the bottom which bolts into the stock bolt holes and a 304 stainless steel top strap.
The battery cables should not be pulled extremely tight. There are a few plastic clips on the cable, just take the clips off and this will allow you enough length for the cable to reach nicely.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Anyway, couple of things.
Putting the battery in the rear of the car does change the weight around, as someone said. Big deal. The weight savings on the entire car will be nothing, as using a small battery in the trunk will not work out well, too much cable and many people have reported the cars being hard to start like this.
The battery kit that we have, you know the one everyone else is thinking of doing now, takes 20 pounds off the nose of the car but still keeps the battery in the front. This eliminates the need for the battery shut off switch in the rear of the car. As I say, putting the battery in the rear of the car is going to actually end up adding weight as the battery will more than likely end up being either the stock heavy part or another larger battery, then you have the weight of all the cable, junction box up front and the cut off switch. Not a good way of doing it in my opinion.
Also, I don't think the other company offering these kits, nisei, is cheaper than ours. They were cheaper as they offered a lower priced battery. We were forced to do this also, using the Odyssey 680 now for guys that want cheaper. Ours kits dropped $30 by using this different battery.
We use an aluminum tray for the bottom which bolts into the stock bolt holes and a 304 stainless steel top strap.
The battery cables should not be pulled extremely tight. There are a few plastic clips on the cable, just take the clips off and this will allow you enough length for the cable to reach nicely.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
also moved mine to the trunk with no problems and no track has said anything about it(drag or road course). It was a 25 dollar solution to a 250 dollar problem. I don't think saving 20lbs it worth the extra money, some might.....not to mention, it cleans up the engine bay EXTREMELY well.
Originally Posted by cary
dave, is it ok to have an aftermarket stereo system with this battery?
+1
i have a 200 watt amp for mids and highs and 1500watt (750 right now) amp for subs. what would be the best solution for my set up? i was thinking about removing the mini battery and putting an optima in the trunk, but now im not sure if that is the best idea. another thought was to try a dual battery set up with the mini battery.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
I have been thinking about getting a small battery kit... but, at lunch time I tend to listen to my radio for 15 + minutes with car off... which makes me nervous about getting the mini battery... last thing I need is to get stranded at work for longer than I have to be....
can the mini batteries take 15 - 20 minutes of engine off radio play? It's a kenwood radio but no amps or anything... just replaced the stock radio to get the satallite radio...
can the mini batteries take 15 - 20 minutes of engine off radio play? It's a kenwood radio but no amps or anything... just replaced the stock radio to get the satallite radio...
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
All I can say is I'm glad I'm not just now copying the idea of a mini battery kit, glad we did it first.
Anyway, couple of things.
Putting the battery in the rear of the car does change the weight around, as someone said. Big deal. The weight savings on the entire car will be nothing, as using a small battery in the trunk will not work out well, too much cable and many people have reported the cars being hard to start like this.
The battery kit that we have, you know the one everyone else is thinking of doing now, takes 20 pounds off the nose of the car but still keeps the battery in the front. This eliminates the need for the battery shut off switch in the rear of the car. As I say, putting the battery in the rear of the car is going to actually end up adding weight as the battery will more than likely end up being either the stock heavy part or another larger battery, then you have the weight of all the cable, junction box up front and the cut off switch. Not a good way of doing it in my opinion.
Also, I don't think the other company offering these kits, nisei, is cheaper than ours. They were cheaper as they offered a lower priced battery. We were forced to do this also, using the Odyssey 680 now for guys that want cheaper. Ours kits dropped $30 by using this different battery.
We use an aluminum tray for the bottom which bolts into the stock bolt holes and a 304 stainless steel top strap.
The battery cables should not be pulled extremely tight. There are a few plastic clips on the cable, just take the clips off and this will allow you enough length for the cable to reach nicely.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Anyway, couple of things.
Putting the battery in the rear of the car does change the weight around, as someone said. Big deal. The weight savings on the entire car will be nothing, as using a small battery in the trunk will not work out well, too much cable and many people have reported the cars being hard to start like this.
The battery kit that we have, you know the one everyone else is thinking of doing now, takes 20 pounds off the nose of the car but still keeps the battery in the front. This eliminates the need for the battery shut off switch in the rear of the car. As I say, putting the battery in the rear of the car is going to actually end up adding weight as the battery will more than likely end up being either the stock heavy part or another larger battery, then you have the weight of all the cable, junction box up front and the cut off switch. Not a good way of doing it in my opinion.
Also, I don't think the other company offering these kits, nisei, is cheaper than ours. They were cheaper as they offered a lower priced battery. We were forced to do this also, using the Odyssey 680 now for guys that want cheaper. Ours kits dropped $30 by using this different battery.
We use an aluminum tray for the bottom which bolts into the stock bolt holes and a 304 stainless steel top strap.
The battery cables should not be pulled extremely tight. There are a few plastic clips on the cable, just take the clips off and this will allow you enough length for the cable to reach nicely.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Originally Posted by GregGSC
these are shipped prices for the GB lower 48 and have to go ground
After group buy pricing is going to look like this not including shipping
Tray with hardware- Black annodized. Price $129
Tray with hardware- Black annodized with Polished Catch Can. Price $189
Tray with Hardware- Black Annodized with Oddessy Battary. Price $229
Tray with Hardware- Black Annodized with Oddessy Battary and Polished Catch Can. Price $289
This will work with the stock air box that is what we have on our evo so your good to go. we also have a proto hard pipe kit that clears as well as the stock piping.
After group buy pricing is going to look like this not including shipping
Tray with hardware- Black annodized. Price $129
Tray with hardware- Black annodized with Polished Catch Can. Price $189
Tray with Hardware- Black Annodized with Oddessy Battary. Price $229
Tray with Hardware- Black Annodized with Oddessy Battary and Polished Catch Can. Price $289
This will work with the stock air box that is what we have on our evo so your good to go. we also have a proto hard pipe kit that clears as well as the stock piping.
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
All I can say is I'm glad I'm not just now copying the idea of a mini battery kit, glad we did it first.
David Buschur
David Buschur
Let me get this right the Buschur kit won’t work with a stock air box. The hardware in your kit is not NHRA or NDRA legal. The whole reason you made the kit is because your upper intercooler pipe wouldn't fit with the stock battery. Davy B you thought of it first but why, the reason you designed the battery tray is because your IC pipe kit wouldn't fit with the stock battery, and instead of redesigning your Upper IC Pipe you would rather your customers spend another $195 or $225 to buy a battery kit. At GSC we just make parts that work for people who don’t want to spend a **** load of money or HAVE to buy all of our parts to build their car.
Just for the record GSC didn't design our kit an evom member did. We liked his design so much that we bought the idea from him and made some slight improvements to it.
Best Regards,
Greg
Originally Posted by GregGSC
Davy B,
Let me get this right the Buschur kit won’t work with a stock air box. The hardware in your kit is not NHRA or NDRA legal. The whole reason you made the kit is because your upper intercooler pipe wouldn't fit with the stock battery. Davy B you thought of it first but why, the reason you designed the battery tray is because your IC pipe kit wouldn't fit with the stock battery, and instead of redesigning your Upper IC Pipe you would rather your customers spend another $195 or $225 to buy a battery kit. At GSC we just make parts that work for people who don’t want to spend a **** load of money or HAVE to buy all of our parts to build their car.
Just for the record GSC didn't design our kit an evom member did. We liked his design so much that we bought the idea from him and made some slight improvements to it.
Best Regards,
Greg
Let me get this right the Buschur kit won’t work with a stock air box. The hardware in your kit is not NHRA or NDRA legal. The whole reason you made the kit is because your upper intercooler pipe wouldn't fit with the stock battery. Davy B you thought of it first but why, the reason you designed the battery tray is because your IC pipe kit wouldn't fit with the stock battery, and instead of redesigning your Upper IC Pipe you would rather your customers spend another $195 or $225 to buy a battery kit. At GSC we just make parts that work for people who don’t want to spend a **** load of money or HAVE to buy all of our parts to build their car.
Just for the record GSC didn't design our kit an evom member did. We liked his design so much that we bought the idea from him and made some slight improvements to it.
Best Regards,
Greg
Many good points here! The GSC one is like no other one out there. It's not just a base with a couple rods sticking up to a small top piece...the design is completely different and it actually serves OTHER purposes as well. The GSC tray...1. Works with stock airbox OR aftermarket intake
2. Works with stock intercooler pipng OR aftermarket piping
3. NHRA and NDRA legal
5. Is available with and mounts an oil-catch can
4. IMO it looks better than any other one available
Last edited by tke_413; Jul 24, 2005 at 02:08 PM.
I don't see any problems with running a no-amp'd stereo for 15 minutes on the battery, I think it will be fine.
Yes, GSC, you are right. We produced an intercooler pipe that is straighter and shorter than any other out there to make more as much power as we could. This required replacing the battery which also ended up saving 20 pounds of weight off the front of the car and not required shut off switches. We also did it in material that won't rust or rot, aluminum and stainless. Not black mild steel.
What do you mean the hardware in our kit isn't NHRA or NDRA legal? That's rediculous, same hardware that came in the car stock.
We do not offer a catch can with our battery kit, a catch can has nothing to do with a battery kit. We sell them seperately.
Our battery kits are $195 now complete with the battery, posts and tray kit.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Yes, GSC, you are right. We produced an intercooler pipe that is straighter and shorter than any other out there to make more as much power as we could. This required replacing the battery which also ended up saving 20 pounds of weight off the front of the car and not required shut off switches. We also did it in material that won't rust or rot, aluminum and stainless. Not black mild steel.
What do you mean the hardware in our kit isn't NHRA or NDRA legal? That's rediculous, same hardware that came in the car stock.
We do not offer a catch can with our battery kit, a catch can has nothing to do with a battery kit. We sell them seperately.
Our battery kits are $195 now complete with the battery, posts and tray kit.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Yes, GSC, you are right. We produced an intercooler pipe that is straighter and shorter than any other out there to make more as much power as we could. This required replacing the battery which also ended up saving 20 pounds of weight off the front of the car and not required shut off switches. We also did it in material that won't rust or rot, aluminum and stainless. Not black mild steel.
What do you mean the hardware in our kit isn't NHRA or NDRA legal? That's rediculous, same hardware that came in the car stock.
We do not offer a catch can with our battery kit, a catch can has nothing to do with a battery kit. We sell them seperately.
Our battery kits are $195 now complete with the battery, posts and tray kit.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
What do you mean the hardware in our kit isn't NHRA or NDRA legal? That's rediculous, same hardware that came in the car stock.
We do not offer a catch can with our battery kit, a catch can has nothing to do with a battery kit. We sell them seperately.
Our battery kits are $195 now complete with the battery, posts and tray kit.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
2. Guess you haven't been to NHRA / NDRA event in a while. Stock sized hardware is not accepted by some track officials even if it is in stock location. (On a side note if you go 135mph or more you need to have a cut-off switch regardless)
3. A catch can has everything to do with a battery kit when it can be attached to it.