I have made a thread kinda about this before. I have an RRE NN clutch with under 5k miles on it. I had a shop adjust the clutch engagment down a little and they made the mistake of adjusting it all the was down to the floor. Well then the clutch started to slip when you would roll into it just for a slipt second and then grab hard in 2nd-4th but only when you would roll into it. If I do a 1st through 4th race situation run it won't slip at all just when you roll into it in the higher gears. Now for the weirdest freaking part ever!!! Just a few minutes ago I went for a little spin and did a break boost in 3rd(you know, where the clutch is fully disengaged you press on the break and floor it to build boost so there isn't any lag)? The clutch didnt slip at all and I even bulit 19psi of boost before I let off of the break!! WTF!!!

Guys I have freaking no idea what to do. Someone said that the flywheel might be glazed and when the friction material heats up it finally grabs. I called RRE they have no idea. I called Jotech they have no idea. I called Vishnu, they have no idea.

Please guys give me any and all ideas you may have. I don't abuse my clutch whatsoever. It has no launches on it. The stock clutch lasted 20k miles more then this one. HELP HELP HELP.



Thank you

 

ill bet the fly wheel is glazed

 

Thank you Super for the input. Anyone else?

 

Hunh, with all the clutch problem we have had on the boards, no one has any idea?

 

Your in a bit of a conundrum. The bottom line is without yanking it all out it would hard to see what the issue really is. I would just beat on it until it slips in all situations and then buy another.

My guess is flywheel or alignment.

 

or the clutch its self... i have an RRE and have nothing but problems out of this piece of crap since i got it... it appears it will give out quicker than the stock unit also... and this is taking it much easier on the clutch.... saaaaaaad saaaaaad clutch hate to hear someone else bought it also....

 

Did you make sure that there is enough freeplay in the pedal to expose the balance ports?

You need just a titch of free play in that clevis pin adjuster rod so that the piston in the master cylinder can return enough to expose balance ports and allow the fluid in the hydraulic circuit to equalize.

If you don't have enough freeplay you can have problems with the clutch engagement point changing from the fluid expanding in the circuit. This will be that clutch that starts out fine but as you drive it the clutch engagement point starts raising up higher & higher and you can really **** the clutch off if you quickly stomp the clutch pedal a few times and over extend the clutch fork & throw-out bearing. This is main reason for breaking clutch forks and causing damage to the spring plate inside that clutch cover.

Now there is the other side of the coin.

Too much freeplay will reduce the distance that the throw-out bearing travels, impeding the shifting of the transmission. That nice low engagement point will make it easier to drive and may feel good to your left foot but it delays the release point of the clutch and ultimately how much room the clutch disc has to do its funky little dance between the flywheel and pressure plate and the end result is the synchros block the shift.

 

See GEARS, why can't I have someone like you around that knows this stuff. I am stuck in Dallas and all anyone cares about are Civics. I don't abuse my clutch whatsoever. It is just really dissapointing that I am so ignorant when it comes to this stuff. So what do I need to do exactly to check and correct this issue. I did print out a diagram of the clutch pedal assembly thingy and I see the clevis pin on the print out but have no idea what to do with it.

 

Was the flywheel resurfaced when the RRE went in?

Even without launches, 320TQ without a new flywheel surface can cause excessive heat upon engagement and greatly reduce the disc life.

dru

 

I had the same problem on my other car (Mustang). After a 1/4 mile pass at the track (dumping the clutch with slicks) the clutch would slip bad from a standstill as you let it out (making a horrible screetching noise), then eventually grab. I limped home, thinking my clutch was fried.

Believe it or not, the problem went away. After a few days of driving, the clutch grabbed normally again. It must have been lightly glazed. I hope in your case its the same.