Help, with CMC questions!
Help, with CMC questions!
Last weekend I replaced the clutch and flywheel. The "How To" helped a ton. I had a hard time releasing the TOB, but I got it. Now that it is all put back together, it dose not work. This is what I think the problem is, please give me ideas on what you might think is the problem.
My friend broke the break line on the front passengers side, and all the brake fluid leaked out. With no new brake line on the island, and the fact that I had to get the car off the lift before work on Monday. I pushed it off the lift and in the parking lot I went to start the car keeping my fingers crossed. I was wanting everything to work except the front breaks. First off the clutch pedel was amost to the floor. I pushed on the clutch and heard a small "POP" sound and then the clutch pedal stayed on the floor. As you know with no brake fluid one might expect that to happen.
So on Monday I ordered a new brake line from Mitsubishi and then had one made at a local shop. I reinstalled the new break line, blead the breakes and then tried to bleed the clutch.
How do you bleed the clutch????? It has a bleed screw on the slave cylinder where it mounts to the bell housing and activates the clutch fork. I have tried to bleed it that way, but I am not sure what is wrong. or what is the sequence. should I be pumping the cluth? When I move the clutch pedel up and down it sounds like there is air in the system. The instructions from the AMS retainer ring are not that clear.
Second, I am hoping that the TOB is installed correct and that that poping sound was not the plastic master cylinder/clutch master cylinder breaking. The one that calls for the AMS ring.
This is what is going on right now. With the car off I can put it into gear and start the car with the key. It lurches foward and starts. So what I am saying is that the clutch is engagued and with no clutch pedel I can't disenguage.
So again please help.
My friend broke the break line on the front passengers side, and all the brake fluid leaked out. With no new brake line on the island, and the fact that I had to get the car off the lift before work on Monday. I pushed it off the lift and in the parking lot I went to start the car keeping my fingers crossed. I was wanting everything to work except the front breaks. First off the clutch pedel was amost to the floor. I pushed on the clutch and heard a small "POP" sound and then the clutch pedal stayed on the floor. As you know with no brake fluid one might expect that to happen.
So on Monday I ordered a new brake line from Mitsubishi and then had one made at a local shop. I reinstalled the new break line, blead the breakes and then tried to bleed the clutch.
How do you bleed the clutch????? It has a bleed screw on the slave cylinder where it mounts to the bell housing and activates the clutch fork. I have tried to bleed it that way, but I am not sure what is wrong. or what is the sequence. should I be pumping the cluth? When I move the clutch pedel up and down it sounds like there is air in the system. The instructions from the AMS retainer ring are not that clear.
Second, I am hoping that the TOB is installed correct and that that poping sound was not the plastic master cylinder/clutch master cylinder breaking. The one that calls for the AMS ring.
This is what is going on right now. With the car off I can put it into gear and start the car with the key. It lurches foward and starts. So what I am saying is that the clutch is engagued and with no clutch pedel I can't disenguage.
So again please help.
i am not sure how the evo slave it but in some VWs the slave is not captured, like if you apply fluid to the slave it will actually pop the piston out of the body. maybe thats what the pop was, if the TOB was not seated correctly it might have allowed the slave to pop. I would think if the master blew there would be fluid leaking somewhere. just a shot
That's just it. I don't see any fluid, it might be because there is air in the system. I might not be able to blead the system because it is cracked. I don't really want to spend the 4 hours pulling out the CMC to inspect it for cracks.
I really don't want to pull the transmission to check the TOB. So first thing first...
Get a vacume bleeder and try and bleed the clutch line again, second remove the CMC and inspect is for damage. Order a new CMC for when or if the stock one is toast. Third after inspecting the CMC and reinstalling or installing new one, if it still dose not work drop the transmission.
Any other ideas?
I really don't want to pull the transmission to check the TOB. So first thing first...
Get a vacume bleeder and try and bleed the clutch line again, second remove the CMC and inspect is for damage. Order a new CMC for when or if the stock one is toast. Third after inspecting the CMC and reinstalling or installing new one, if it still dose not work drop the transmission.
Any other ideas?
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