NewEvolutionIX

iTrader: (23)

I just did a clutch job and Im having a hard time bleeding the clutch line and getting clutch pressure in the pedal. I have done all the searches and have tried most of everything.

I have the slave cylinder compressed so all the air is out of it and have been bleeding it from the bleeder valve on it, but all I get is it keeps pushing air out but the fluid in the brake master cylinder is still at the same level. Not to sure what to do. Any suggestions would help. Thanks

MR. EVO MR

iTrader: (9)

clutch and brake master cylinder are two diffrent animals, something is wrong with what your asking

browningderek

iTrader: (7)

make sure the master cylider res. is full! it may look full but if you look where the clutch master cylinder line goes on you will notice that it draws off of its own fluid chamber in the main res. -over fill the res. and keep it all the way full. then when your done just suck some of the fluid out.

Evo8Emperor

iTrader: (12)

like he said above. not sure i you did but top it all the way off so its over flowing just about. But don't to much in there when your done. Leave the cap off also.

4G63 T

iTrader: (14)

Check lower clutch line for leak

or

top off fluid to almost overflow.

1d10t

iTrader: (19)

Fill the res the the tippy top as stated, plop the clutch pedal to the floor for 10-15 minutes with the bleeder open. Then close the bleeder, pop up the clutch pedal, and plop it to the floor again, open the bleeder. After a few minutes, close the bleeder.
Pop the clutch up (bleeder closed), push down to floor, open bleeder and wear safety glasses lol, close bleeder. pull pedal up, then plop it to the floor, open bleeder. While keeping fluid in totally full fashion.
repeat until only fluid comes from the bleeder valve and pressure is felt in the clutch pedal. Do not pump the clutch pedal as damage can occur to the master.
Takes about 15 minutes this way, but is complete.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

Lines on the side of the reservoir mean nothing. The thing has to be "overfilled" to get fluid into the back part that feeds the clutch master.

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

As others have stated keep the reservoir filled to the very top of the neck and make sure an air pocket doesn't form near where the clutch system draws fluid. The clutch systems draws fluid from the hose stocking out the side of the reservoir on the driver's side. I ran into these same issues earlier tonight actually.

Piro Fyre

iTrader: (23)

+1
I agree from my personal experience on bleeding the clutch. Took a while but I followed this guy's advice and it finally was bled properly.

mitsuv

I did mine like that:
With 2 persons
Open the bleeder
push the clutch pedal to the half of the stroke
close the bleeder
rise the pedal.

Repeat the sequence until the pedal is ok. If the clutch command is still not ok, you have a problem with your slave cylinder

Thoe99

iTrader: (25)

This takes like 1 minute to bleed with the Motive Power Bleeder. I ran into the same things til I bought this.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

clutch bleeds the same way with the power bleeder?

Thoe99

iTrader: (25)

Yep, it pressurizes the brake fluid out of the clutch line when you loosen the bleed screw.

barneyb

On my Evo I've bled the slave but never had any reason for repair. For my DSM I bought a new transmission from Mitsubishi. It came with a new slave cylinder and new hard line. I connected the hose and my wife depressed the clutch pedal once and by the end of that stroke I was seeing solid brake fluid. So, I closed the bleeder and done.

With that in mind, when I encounter a thread where someone just can't seem to get all the air out of the clutch hydraulics they're obviously putting air in. Once your ducks are in a row bleeding is simplicity itself.