Forge Actuator 25psi straight to Redline!!!
The only time I ever ran my car down the track (first and only drag launch of the car), it ran an 8.2 @ 86.4mph w/ a 1.85 60' on pump gas, full weight with a turbo back, xede by me, and a dynoflash on ~18-19 psi. Obviously my 60' needed some work, but I'm proud of my trap speed
Last edited by A418t81; Sep 12, 2005 at 09:18 PM.
Originally Posted by fixem2
Mike,
What would you suggest the turnbuckle should be set too? For stock and / or for mods with alky (25psi).
What would you suggest the turnbuckle should be set too? For stock and / or for mods with alky (25psi).
Originally Posted by Rollaway
got any in stock??? my stock wg is broke for some reason?
btw will this fit on an 05 turbo w/ no probs right?
please pm me with pricing
btw will this fit on an 05 turbo w/ no probs right?
please pm me with pricing
Yes, it will fit and '05 without any problems. I have one on my '05 as a matter of fact!
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I already know this actuator is being used to go 12.0s and 115mph in 5th gear on an MR (TTP Engineering), so I believe it's a good unit, but I'm not sure holding 25psi to redline is a good thing for most...
25psi on 264s is more probable than many other cam selections. Do not expect to see results like this with 272's, 280's or higher lift cams. Honestly I think the statement that the 264's will hold 25psi to redline is a stretch.
I do however agree that there is a substantial and measurable improvement with the Forge unit. I have a picked up a few from Mike myself that we have supplied the local Evo community in a test bed. One of the cars runs on C16 all day and another with alky injection. The C16 record setting Evo had a boost dropoff problem that was remedied by the unit. The TTP-Engineering MR holds 22.5psi logged at just over 8000rpms and 26-28psi in 5th gear (shorter gear ratio).
Last edited by timzcat; Sep 13, 2005 at 03:25 PM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by dsm95hybrid
How would more boost and quicker spoolup cause you less midrange. The question in itself does not make sense and neither does the claim. You do not lose midrange due to a stiffer wastegate. That just does not make sense.
25psi on 264s is more probable than many other cam selections. Do not expect to see results like this with 272's, 280's or higher lift cams. Honestly I think the statement that the 264's will hold 25psi to redline is a stretch.
I do however agree that there is a substantial and measurable improvement with the Forge unit. I have a picked up a few from Mike myself that we have supplied the local Evo community in a test bed. One of the cars runs on C16 all day and another with alky injection. The C16 record setting Evo had a boost dropoff problem that was remedied by the unit. The TTP-Engineering MR holds 22.5psi logged at just over 8000rpms and 26-28psi in 5th gear (shorter gear ratio).
TTP-Engineering is also an authorized Forge Dealer.
25psi on 264s is more probable than many other cam selections. Do not expect to see results like this with 272's, 280's or higher lift cams. Honestly I think the statement that the 264's will hold 25psi to redline is a stretch.
I do however agree that there is a substantial and measurable improvement with the Forge unit. I have a picked up a few from Mike myself that we have supplied the local Evo community in a test bed. One of the cars runs on C16 all day and another with alky injection. The C16 record setting Evo had a boost dropoff problem that was remedied by the unit. The TTP-Engineering MR holds 22.5psi logged at just over 8000rpms and 26-28psi in 5th gear (shorter gear ratio).
TTP-Engineering is also an authorized Forge Dealer.
We don't have access to a AWD dyno but I can tell you there is no lose in the mid range.
For the install- I took out the radiator. Other than that pretty easy. I wouldn't worry to much about the turnbuckle to much. Your going to fine tune your boost with your controller.
John
Originally Posted by fixem2
Mike, I currently have the blue spring and I am looking at getting the Red.
(This is the last question before I can provide a definitive answer to your adjustment question. I promise!)
As far as the install is concerned, it CAN be done without removing the radiator, as this is how I installed mine, however, it is the biggest pain in the butt and took me about 3 hours.
I think I even invented some new profane words in that time as well.
Your best bet is to remove the radiator to install this. It is terribly difficult without doing so.
(Difficult implying impossible to get your hands and/or tools into the tight space.)
I think I even invented some new profane words in that time as well.
Your best bet is to remove the radiator to install this. It is terribly difficult without doing so.
(Difficult implying impossible to get your hands and/or tools into the tight space.)
Originally Posted by Mike@Forge
As far as the install is concerned, it CAN be done without removing the radiator, as this is how I installed mine, however, it is the biggest pain in the butt and took me about 3 hours.
I think I even invented some new profane words in that time as well.
Your best bet is to remove the radiator to install this. It is terribly difficult without doing so.
(Difficult implying impossible to get your hands and/or tools into the tight space.)
I think I even invented some new profane words in that time as well.
Your best bet is to remove the radiator to install this. It is terribly difficult without doing so.
(Difficult implying impossible to get your hands and/or tools into the tight space.)
Originally Posted by dsm95hybrid
I agree. In our staged upgrades list, we recommend the manifold change, 02 housing upgrade and Forge WG at the same time to kill these 3 birds at once. For those using the 9.8cm2 hotside moving to the 10.5cm2, this is also an opportune time to make that change as well. Removal of the manifold and turbo/O2 is recommended if making those changes. I do not recommend re-installing the O2 heatshield. Without the shield the WG can be removed and reinstalled in 15min without the removal of the radiator. Be careful not to bent the radiator fins while fiddling around down there however.
The amount of work required to install the actuator by itself would also be the PERFECT time to work on any other "upgrades" in that area of the engine bay.
And deffinetly leave the front heatshield off. It's useless and it's removal allows impossibly easy access to the actuator for adjustments.
so, it won't hold more boost than the stock unit if you are using the stock BCS? i control boost with the xede, so i manipulate the stock BCS.
You saying it would only show boost increases at high RPM with a MBC?
You saying it would only show boost increases at high RPM with a MBC?
Originally Posted by John@GSC
I guess I need to video tape the boost to prove it that it HOLDS 25-26 psi, and it does make power. I drop 2 tenths in the 1/8 just by bolting on the Borla man. and turning up the boost. We're taking same 60fts as before, same 1/8 mph (stock rev limit).
We don't have access to a AWD dyno but I can tell you there is no lose in the mid range.
For the install- I took out the radiator. Other than that pretty easy. I wouldn't worry to much about the turnbuckle to much. Your going to fine tune your boost with your controller.
John
We don't have access to a AWD dyno but I can tell you there is no lose in the mid range.
For the install- I took out the radiator. Other than that pretty easy. I wouldn't worry to much about the turnbuckle to much. Your going to fine tune your boost with your controller.
John
Originally Posted by gsujeff55
so, it won't hold more boost than the stock unit if you are using the stock BCS? i control boost with the xede, so i manipulate the stock BCS.
You saying it would only show boost increases at high RPM with a MBC?
You saying it would only show boost increases at high RPM with a MBC?
Given that the OEM boost control solenoid, whether controlled by the factory ECU or some other engine management, controls boost by manipulating the signal to the actuator by bleeding pressure from the reference from the turbo, the solenoid will just bleed whatever amount of pressure it needs to bleed to maintain the boost level predetermined within the programming.
This type of solenoid will not allow for any boost pressure increase from our actuator.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
An aftermarket (electronic) boost control solenoid (most of them, anyway) manipulates the signal to the actuator by delaying the time in which that pressure signal opens the actuator. For more boost, it will delay the signal longer until that predetemined pressure is reached. For less boost, it will allow that signal to open the actuator sooner.
This type of solenoid will allow for the base spring pressure of the actuator to affect it's adjustment range.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Having a pressure reference from the turbo directly to the actuator will only allow for a boost pressure that matches that of the spring pressue of the actuator.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I hope this helps to clarify.
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (44)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,159
Likes: 0
From: Charleston SC
Originally Posted by Rollaway
got any in stock??? my stock wg is broke for some reason?
btw will this fit on an 05 turbo w/ no probs right?
please pm me with pricing
btw will this fit on an 05 turbo w/ no probs right?
please pm me with pricing
Greg


