IMO the MAF reading is still accurate at 2100-2200HZ.

I am running about 2126HZ currently and a/f is clockwork to tune. Intake type will have an impact on the frequency of the MAF at the same "actual" airflow level.

 

Which is why I'd like to see dyno data from a competently tuned car running the stock intake, making back-to-back runs with let's say 20psi at the hp peak vs. 25psi on the stock turbo.

 

i got this part because i started to have some weird boost issues and people told me that maybe my stock actuator was crap. installing this for me was not an easy task. i have the buschur fmic and upper piping kit. the actuator is wider than the stocker and really pushes against the lower turbo outlet pipe. you really need to take the starter off to gain easier access to the bolts that hold the pipe to the compressor housing of the turbo.

and right now i am having weird boost issues again. my boost hits hard to about 20psi by 3K rpm then around 4500rpm my boost floats to about 22/23 and back down to 20psi.

FYI...i have the blue spring.

anyone have any ideas?

 

This may be a different story on the 5sp, but in no way would I ever recommend removing the starter to install the WG. I would remove the radiator WAYYYY before anything else. Like I stated the optimum situation is to remove the whole turbo and manifold. Remove all the heatshields when it is out.

 

Boost leak maybe?

 

My car started to do the same thing until I replaced the Hallman MBC...do you have one of these? If so, they had a bad batch where the springs were taking a crap...something to look into.

 

I second that. My first boost controller was an old school Hallman (lock nut adjustment) and the boost acted strangely. It would hold THEN spike then fall FAST. I got the car tuned with it anyway and Al suggested getting a new Hallman. I did so and it fixed the problem. I know get a sudden small spike to 23psi, then it holds 22psi til about 6000rpm then it will taper down to 19psi at about 7300. Just what its suppose to do!

 

i do have a hallman with the stiffer spring. I have had it in the car for almost 2 years now. The hallman I have is the one that you can control from inside the cabin.

 

Sounds like you at defintely do for a new spring...

 

Ok, so after the Forge WGA, it ran the same mph in the 1/8th, but was 2mph higher at the 330'. I'm not sure if that's telling us anything. When I say I'm not sure, I mean that I am not educated enough to know what really caused that increase at the 330 and then decrease from the 330 to the 660.

The 60' was better on the new run, which can account for a little bit of the ET increase, but not all of it. The ET dropped .17, which is interesting, since the 1/8th mph is the same, but maybe the higher speed through the 330 helped to better the ET. It's not really definitive, though. The car is making the same power as before it seems...

 

At some point you are going to be over spinning the turbo. Causing more heat and shorter turbo life. Also at some point you will be pushing the boost pressure to exhaust pressure ratio toward the theoretical "limit" which can lead to massive internal back pressure, pre turbine and melted exhaust valves. With a leaner mixture at a "normal PSI", you could make the same power by increasing volumetric efficency.

Just my .02

 

Increasing volumetric efficiency of course, increasing boost dropoff and bringing us back to the whole reason for the Forge WG upgrade in the first place. No thank you....
_____________________________
30 psi, stock turbo member #0202

 

Ok, well that's a great piece of information that was not included. This just makes the times fairly useless then until you can get to a 1/4-mile track. This is also the problem with 1/8th-mile tracks, because I had the same problem where I kept hitting the rev limiter at 84mph (stock rev limit). Shifting to 4th right at the end never helped, since it was so close to the end, and holding it in 3rd while bouncing off the rev limiter never got me above 84.2, no matter what.

To the contrary, though, when I go to the 1/4-mile track, I hit 87-88mph in the 1/8th, which means I'm definitely already in 4th and have been for a measurable amount of time, especially since I'm on the stock ECU with a 7600 rpm rev limit. I shift at 7200 anyway, so I'm hitting 4th well before the 660' mark. Are you guys just holding it in 3rd all the way through? Did you not try to hit 4th? Were you doing the same thing before the WGA (hitting rev limiter, staying in 3rd)? You may not be able to see the difference until going for a full 1/4-mile run.

 

Which is why it's useful to identify that approximate point whereby working the turbo harder results in no power increase and only reduced longevity.

That's correct. Increasing VE may lower boost pressure but does not compromise power. Running less boost more efficiently generates more power than running more boost inefficiently. This is why the before/after dyno charts demonstrate larger turbos making more power than the factory turbo at the same boost levels. Furthermore, the better VE of the engine (i.e. cams, tubular manifolds, etc.), the lower the pressure at which boost/efficiency becomes a proposition of diminishing returns.