ACT clutch premature wear? help!
Originally Posted by Zemo
it IS yellow!

Now, honest to god I havn't beat on this car. Zero dyno pulls, 11 launches, 10-15 agressive runs (no launching, no stupid shifting).
So I should just put a new organic street friction plate thingy in? Leave the flywheel and pressure plate? The heat scoring isn't a problem? nothing needs to be resurfaced?
Thanks for your help.

Now, honest to god I havn't beat on this car. Zero dyno pulls, 11 launches, 10-15 agressive runs (no launching, no stupid shifting).
So I should just put a new organic street friction plate thingy in? Leave the flywheel and pressure plate? The heat scoring isn't a problem? nothing needs to be resurfaced?
Thanks for your help.
I agree that your clutch and flywheel show serious signs of abuse and/or hard driving, maybe more than you are letting on. After all, there was only 3k miles on the clutch but there is significant wear on the pressure plate judging from the raised surface on the inside of the plate in the picture above.
The clutch and flywheel are the clincher. The clutch and flywheel are completely wrecked. The heat scoring on the flywheel and even on the steel parts of the clutch tells the whole story. There was massive heat build up more than likely from excessive clutch slipping at high rpms. Maybe you did treat your clutch well and i'm not calling you a liar. But all the signs point to hard driving even if you did drive in a civil manner.
BTW there is no way resurfacing your flywheel will save it. Heat scoring aka hotspots alter the characteristics of the metal they affect permanently. The hotspots will wear and grab differently than the rest of the surface. Resurfacing the flywheel will not remove most of the hotspots. Especially on your flywheel. Some of those hotspots probably go all the way through the flywheel. Take the flywheel all the way off and you will see them on the back i'm sure.
In response to your earlier post about the clutch restrictor: It is easily removed heres a good how to: EVO Motorsports - Braided Clutch Line / Restrictor Removal
Good Luck
Originally Posted by Zemo
I was assured that the clutch was installed well....any more ideas on why this clutch would have ended up this way?
I was assured by the previous owner, who's done multiple clutch installs on multiple cars, including evos, that it was installed correctly, and I do believe him. He goes by vtsnake on these boards.
okkkk wow so many probs with act and i have another one....A really good shop put in my clutch no names given but they have one of the fastest evo's anyways....clutch in having same prob as everyone else with adjustment no biggie...i went adjusted it no problems rebleeded my clutch line...new bushings...i go to the track launch my car it wheel hops as if the clutch isnt holding then it totally lets go in second then grabs and is fine the rest of the way...tried it twice and stopped...stock clutch was sick for launchin 1.7 all day ok who knows what is wrong here how high do u launch the act street disc clutches? BTW not happy at all because ive been dealing with all adjustment problems for a while I have the act street disc with pro street flywheel and ss clutch line...put in the lancer shop shorter push rod kartboy bushings...
okkkk wow so many probs with act and i have another one....A really good shop put in my clutch no names given but they have one of the fastest evo's anyways....clutch in having same prob as everyone else with adjustment no biggie...i went adjusted it no problems rebleeded my clutch line...new bushings...i go to the track launch my car it wheel hops as if the clutch isnt holding then it totally lets go in second then grabs and is fine the rest of the way...tried it twice and stopped...stock clutch was sick for launchin 1.7 all day ok who knows what is wrong here how high do u launch the act street disc clutches? BTW not happy at all because ive been dealing with all adjustment problems for a while I have the act street disc with pro street flywheel and ss clutch line...put in the lancer shop shorter push rod kartboy bushings...
i dont get it?? why people are still using act clutch ive seen a lot of ppl who have had problems with this clutch i would rather choose the exedy clutch as for me i have 5000 miles on my car and i launch my car at 7400rpm and i dump the clutch its the stock clutch by the way and i havent seen a problem so far with my car!!! a friend of mine had a clutchmaster instaled on his evo and he slip this clutch when drag racing and it only lasted like 2000 miles so i think its better to dump then to silp but when you dump make sure you get some wheelspin to save the drivetrain !!
Originally Posted by jrsimon27
i dont get it?? why people are still using act clutch ive seen a lot of ppl who have had problems with this clutch i would rather choose the exedy clutch as for me i have 5000 miles on my car and i launch my car at 7400rpm and i dump the clutch its the stock clutch by the way and i havent seen a problem so far with my car!!! a friend of mine had a clutchmaster instaled on his evo and he slip this clutch when drag racing and it only lasted like 2000 miles so i think its better to dump then to silp but when you dump make sure you get some wheelspin to save the drivetrain !!
God your a tool
Since you decided to start a thread, I guess I might as well post as well. I took a good look at the photos you sent to Richard. The clutch is cooked, not worn. As someone else pointed out, it actually seems like there is quite a bit of material on the disc so it is not like you wore it down a lot. But in order to melt the linings to where the fibers are exposed, blue the flywheel and undoubtedly warp it like you did, you let the clutch get super hot. What generates heat is excessive slippage. I doubt that it is the clutch not being able to hold the power, unless you are making some crazy numbers. Maybe you are driving the car gently, but from the looks of it you are driving the clutch to death. There may be other factors like if the restrictor if it is still in, or possibly misadjusted until it is preloaded. Are you sure the previous owner was nice to it? The only thing I found odd from the photos is that the flywheel looks worse than the pressure plate. Usually it is the other way around. Regardless the clutch was allowed to slip too long for it's own good.
We have plenty of happy customers running good numbers and their clutches are lasting very well. Our clutches will hold a lot of power and give great performance, but you obviously exceeded the heat capacity of the disc, pressure plate and you stock flywheel. The only clutches that will put up with that kind of heat are the carbon/carbon ones, but you shouldn't need to go that extreme.
Keep in mind I am only going by what I see in the photos. It is by no means a complete evaluation and I don't want to discourage you from letting us test the parts.
We have plenty of happy customers running good numbers and their clutches are lasting very well. Our clutches will hold a lot of power and give great performance, but you obviously exceeded the heat capacity of the disc, pressure plate and you stock flywheel. The only clutches that will put up with that kind of heat are the carbon/carbon ones, but you shouldn't need to go that extreme.
Keep in mind I am only going by what I see in the photos. It is by no means a complete evaluation and I don't want to discourage you from letting us test the parts.
Originally Posted by jrsimon27
i dont get it?? why people are still using act clutch ive seen a lot of ppl who have had problems with this clutch i would rather choose the exedy clutch as for me i have 5000 miles on my car and i launch my car at 7400rpm and i dump the clutch its the stock clutch by the way and i havent seen a problem so far with my car!!! a friend of mine had a clutchmaster instaled on his evo and he slip this clutch when drag racing and it only lasted like 2000 miles so i think its better to dump then to silp but when you dump make sure you get some wheelspin to save the drivetrain !!



$1500 aint' cheap....



