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View Poll Results: Has anyone partially blown a head gasket with ARP head studs?
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Head gasket apperad to went bad with ARP head studs

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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 06:03 AM
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Head gasket apperad to went bad with ARP head studs

Has anyone else partially blown a head gasket with ARP head studs? There is alot of oil all over engine parts below the manifold and underneath the motor and parts in close proximity. NO white smoke....Just trying to get a poll.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 06:07 AM
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I dont think oil would get on the outside of the engine...it would blow into the cylinder.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 06:08 AM
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Oh o it looks like another one. Check my post. Did you install the stud into the block by hand? If you did that's the problem.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=156413
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 06:55 AM
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Good Idea for a poll but I think that most people just end up with a small oil leak and not a blown headgasket. Maybe in time it could develop into that, is your headgasket blown?
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by GOKOU
Oh o it looks like another one. Check my post. Did you install the stud into the block by hand? If you did that's the problem.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=156413
Thanks for the link. I ahve been reading it.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by GTVEVO
Good Idea for a poll but I think that most people just end up with a small oil leak and not a blown headgasket. Maybe in time it could develop into that, is your headgasket blown?
I was going to check the compression but instead lifted the car and saw all the oil leading from the rear of the motor at the head gasket. All the head studs are torqued to 70ft lbs which was the figure a rep at ARP told me we should be using with ARP moly lube and 85 ft lbs using 30 wt motor oil.
Vtech8tr did the install and did a thorough job using a torque wrench. Not sure about retorqing them above that though. Did loosening and retightening the Head studs to a higher torque number help? Or should I just turn up the torque and continue to tightening the studs?
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by TampaTurbo
I was going to check the compression but instead lifted the car and saw all the oil leading from the rear of the motor at the head gasket. All the head studs are torqued to 70ft lbs which was the figure a rep at ARP told me we should be using with ARP moly lube and 85 ft lbs using 30 wt motor oil.
Vtech8tr did the install and did a thorough job using a torque wrench. Not sure about retorqing them above that though. Did loosening and retightening the Head studs to a higher torque number help? Or should I just turn up the torque and continue to tightening the studs?

Vtech8r is a good person and knows what he's doing. I would confirm with him as to whether he tighten the stud into the block by hand or by using a rachet. I believe that could be the problem. The installation in evom forum say to tighten by hand which I strongly don't agree to.

If I were you I would go back and loosen the nut and retighten the stud using a rachet and then tighen the nut to 85lb.

Good luck.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by GOKOU
Vtech8r is a good person and knows what he's doing. I would confirm with him as to whether he tighten the stud into the block by hand or by using a rachet. I believe that could be the problem. The installation in evom forum say to tighten by hand which I strongly don't agree to.

If I were you I would go back and loosen the nut and retighten the stud using a rachet and then tighen the nut to 85lb.

Good luck.
It was done using a torque wrench. I was there. Its all good. just trying to figure why its leaking.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 08:01 AM
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Something was done wrong in the install. ARP studs are a lot stronger than stock and the only reason you would have a problem is because of the studs not being fully seated, torqued etc.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by gt40
Something was done wrong in the install. ARP studs are a lot stronger than stock and the only reason you would have a problem is because of the studs not being fully seated, torqued etc.
Should they be retorqued on a cold motor to 85ft lbs. The torque has been checked recently on a warm motor and is still within ARP specs. The only question is do I need to step it up to 85ft lbs.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by TampaTurbo
I was going to check the compression but instead lifted the car and saw all the oil leading from the rear of the motor at the head gasket. All the head studs are torqued to 70ft lbs which was the figure a rep at ARP told me we should be using with ARP moly lube and 85 ft lbs using 30 wt motor oil.
Vtech8tr did the install and did a thorough job using a torque wrench. Not sure about retorqing them above that though. Did loosening and retightening the Head studs to a higher torque number help? Or should I just turn up the torque and continue to tightening the studs?
Mark,

I do recall doing the studs for you and you said to go by the ARPs instruciotns. I told you they needed to be torqued from 85-90 ft. lbs. You said that was too much, so i torqued them to 75ft. lbs if i recall correctly.

Mark yes only on a cold motor would you want to check them.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by VTECH8TR
Mark,

I do recall doing the studs for you and you said to go by the ARPs instruciotns. I told you they needed to be torqued from 85-90 ft. lbs. You said that was too much, so i torqued them to 75ft. lbs if i recall correctly.

Mark yes only on a cold motor would you want to check them.
I got your email and responded. Thanks.... So shoudl I loosen and retighten to 85 or just continue to tighten to 85-90? Thanks again
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by gt40
Something was done wrong in the install. ARP studs are a lot stronger than stock and the only reason you would have a problem is because of the studs not being fully seated, torqued etc.
I wouldn't say that something was done wrong on the install but it could lead to problems if it was. If you have noticed several evo motors are seeing this issue with and without the HS install. I have seen it even on a fully built long block by a very good engine builder. I honestly think it has to do with the factory headgasket and the oil return passages but thats just my opinion.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by GTVEVO
I wouldn't say that something was done wrong on the install but it could lead to problems if it was. If you have noticed several evo motors are seeing this issue with and without the HS install. I have seen it even on a fully built long block by a very good engine builder. I honestly think it has to do with the factory headgasket and the oil return passages but thats just my opinion.
I guess we'll try to retorque it and clean it up. If it still leaks then I will do the head gasket. I am planning on sticking with OEM gaskets.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 08:39 AM
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From: La Isla Del Encanto
Originally Posted by gt40
Something was done wrong in the install. ARP studs are a lot stronger than stock and the only reason you would have a problem is because of the studs not being fully seated, torqued etc.
How do you know the install was done wrong? Where you their? I performed the install and it was done exactly like i have done the rest. I have even seen this same oil issue on stock evos with high miles. I have personally seen 2 with this same issue. One i had to take the head off and put in a new gasket and the other i put in some ARP studs which seems to have cured the problem.

Last edited by VTECH8TR; Oct 20, 2005 at 08:51 AM.
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