Get an APS BOV and ditch that Greddy unit.

 

Damnit! This is going to be my third BOV.. i'm so sick of BOV's... but i think your right... I've heard no complaints about the APS.

I will definately try that cam gear timing your suggesting... All I been doing these pass couple weeks is searching and reading almost ever cam gear/cam shaft/bov thread on this forum!

 

Ok here's a question... say the cam gear timing is wrong.. example they put -4 on exhaust instead on the intake and -1.5 on the intake instead of the exhaust.

What will this do to me?

 

Don't go buying another BOV until all of your problems are fixed. Just slap on the stocker until everything is kosher, then go back to the Greddy. I still thought you were supposed to do the single-spring mod on the RS, but I could be wrong, since you said you searched it. That BOV works fine when recirculated...you shouldn't have to spend anymore money on BOVs.

 

what rpm does your car idle at?

 

I'm thinking more along the lines that the cam gears/belt aren't lined up properly. Your gear settings are probably good, its hard to screw those up. If they didn't get them set correctly at 0/0 off of TDC, then that could be a problem.

I agree and disagree with Warrtalon on the BOV point. I've been down the BOV path of doom and my solution has been the APS. Its probably best to get the car running right first and go from there. At this point I have a Greddy and an HKS in the same parts bin at my house.

I don't think this issue is being caused by your BOV unless its defective...

But my 2cp = APS BOV= you don't have to dick with it and it works (at least as far as your BOV issue goes)

 

Ok I see.. BOV is something I'm getting into when it shouldnt be causing the problem I have now since it is recirculating now... I did see an improvement from the vented vs recirculating.. but the flutter is just annoying maybe your right about the single spring thing wartalon.

My car actually idles at 900 rpm, dips down real low as low as 100 rpm still doesnt die! I mean it's almost dead at that point this happens every few mins when the car is only idling!

My problem is.. The car stalls when I move up a tad or if I was reversing.. everytime! I can try avoid the car not dying by fluttering the gas while this is happening but it seems to get worse doing that.

I just got a CEL again today after being without it last night... I live and work in Boston and with the traffic here my car is not drivable like this.

I've read many posts and it seems silversurfer was having great success on his 272's with -4/-1.5 setting... possibly this is not working for me because I got my ECU flashed and since then I just recently added cam gears to try to fine tune.

I might go with -3/-3 setting and see how that works but anyhow I'm printing out this entire thread and keeping it with me for reference later on in the day when I'm going to try to fix my problem.

 

i highly doubt it is your cam gear settings. Can you check your SAFC settings and make sure nothing got changed by mistake?

 

s afc settings are 0/0.. since i do have the flash

sensor is karmon
cylinder is 4 arrow pointing up

I'm going to d/c my s afc anyway

 

It seems we all agree that your car is possibly malfunctioning due to something wrong and not component choice (which may exaserbate things).

Please before you go out and purchace a new part to try to fix it, make sure the timing belt is on time, it doesn't matter if the installer has installed 2341674 cams, the chance of something going wrong is very possible.

You can check the timing youself in about 30 minutes - read Evomoto's cam install and go over the portion of timing, if it is one tooth off it would be obvious. If that checks out it may be the trigger sensor, but dont dig into that yet.

Good luck

 

I'd still check to make sure the crank and cam timing are right, in relation to each other. Here's evomoto's cam install instructions. Pay particular attention to step 15 which shows how to get the crank to TDC. I was able to see the timing marks around the timing belt, if you can, it'll save you a lot of steps. Once the crank is at TDC, check your cam timing against the marks on the cam cover. Good luck!

http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...3_6&tech_id=18

 

quit wasting time on the cams. 272/272 idle fine. Cam gear timing wont help you. Look at Timing belt. You can do this yourself. Pull the cam gear cover. Rotate engine to align the notches with the valve cover. Get a flashlite and look down through the a/c hoses at the damper and see if the notch in it is lined up with the forward most line on the block. Your looking at the whole picture. Take a bite of the picture and get back to us. But quit wasting time on cam gear settings. Not your problem.

 

Yeah, this what I was trying to write. Do this and get back with pics. If you can, use white out on the timing marks you can get to so it will be clear

 

I think your 0300 code is from the flash. Slowcar had a dynoflash and got the 0300 code the very next day. Before that he never had a code in his life. Thats at 40K miles. Flashed back to stock and never a code since. Ray

 

hey its ev08buoy at friends shop... everyone here is convinced the ECU flash is the cause of all my problems and I've also heard that even running stock ECU the car should run ok with the cams