Hello Everyone,

Well this discussion has been covered many times I know, But in the comming weeks we are going to have some conclusive results for everyone on the forum.
We are building a customers 03 Evo 8 with our T3T4 50 trim Turbo kit already installed.
It will incorporate our new Custom made 2.3 Stroker kit. With a new Billet crank, H-Beam Rods and Piston set to our specs.
Magnus Manifold, Mustang TB, Precision Dyno Intercooler ad piping and Alky kit.
Fully ported Head, Titanium Retainers, Bronze Guides and retainers.
We will first tune the car with EcuTek and then Immediately throw in the AEM EMS.
The comparision will be made WITH the MAF sensor from the factory. THEN we will swap in the speed density setup and see the real difference.
We will keep everyone updated on the progress of the vehicle thru the building and tuning process. I also wanted to start this thread to get some good or bad feedback versus the comparisons we are trying to accomidate here.
Thank you all for your time.

Nick
Precision Dyno

 

Good work guys, keep us informed!

 

I would like to hear more about this kit. Specifically the crank and rods. How much does this kit costs and what is the stroke on the crank?

 

why did he go for a 2.3 bottom end with a turbo that size? a 50 trim spools pretty quickly... well i guess the tq would help alot though.

 

Nick

Ive actually done something similar to what you are doing.
What I did with my old 03WW Evo was had it DynoFlashed to 444whp on 93 pump at 25psi

A few months later I had AEM EMS installed and tuned and got 450whp on 93 pump with 22psi
These were done with an AMS GT35R Kit + supporting mods

However with the installation of the ems I also installed 1000cc, Magnus SI and 75mm tb so my comparison was not really accurate

In drivability b/w the 2 was night and day though
With DynoFlash I just left it alone and had no problems with only 6hp less
With the standalone I had to always plug my laptop in once a day
Weather, climate and altitude changes messed with my ems and i would always have to tweak it everytime

 

There are six different wheels in the 50 trim family...

The T3T4 We are using will spool up just like the stock turbo and give you enough for 550WHP.

 

These are great points. Just keep in mind that the AEM is only as good as the original tuner. If tuned properly you should NEVER need to retune. We can get into that discussion if you like or pm me.
The AEM has the same features as the stock ECU. Many tuners though do not know how to use them

 

It was tuned by Jason Siebel...

 

You should have had it tuned Sean Ivey. His AEM tuned cars run like stock ECU cars.

 

Bump for updates on this.

 

Same theory applies.
Some do not take the time to tune every parameter.
I amnot claiming to know his practices as he is the one that came up with some of the software we use today with the EMS.



The Stroker specs and pricing we will come up with when we get some results. We have just received our cranks and pistons. When everything is blueprinted we will come up with the details.
Just a couple of weeks.
Thanks for your patience.

 

if you had it tuned by someone else why did you break out hte laptop all the time?

 

as my 1st post said
" Weather, climate and altitude changes messed with my ems and i would always have to tweak it everytime"

 

On the Dynoflash were you using a boost guage for PSI or did you have some other logging software? I noticed with the Zietronics and the 3.5 bar sensor my logged boost is at least 2 lbs less then guage psi.

 

Good point - I have seen over time that many, many case. The fact is that the boost gauge on 95% of car's dashes is NOT ACCURATE.

At Pruven we have a known mechanical gauge which is confirmed to be accurate that we typically use to check against the customer's gauge

In the case of my road tuned flashes I use a MAP sesnor which is very accurate and which usually shows that mechanical gauges read low

My point is that if your boost gauge is off by 1.5 0r 2 psi (which is very common) your power may be rather low and your track times may be off as well.

I have noted that in most cases the boost gauges read higher than the actual boost