Standalone VS. Flash
Originally Posted by Rollaway
Nick
Ive actually done something similar to what you are doing.
What I did with my old 03WW Evo was had it DynoFlashed to 444whp on 93 pump at 25psi
A few months later I had AEM EMS installed and tuned and got 450whp on 93 pump with 22psi
These were done with an AMS GT35R Kit + supporting mods
However with the installation of the ems I also installed 1000cc, Magnus SI and 75mm tb so my comparison was not really accurate
In drivability b/w the 2 was night and day though
With DynoFlash I just left it alone and had no problems with only 6hp less
With the standalone I had to always plug my laptop in once a day
Weather, climate and altitude changes messed with my ems and i would always have to tweak it everytime
Ive actually done something similar to what you are doing.
What I did with my old 03WW Evo was had it DynoFlashed to 444whp on 93 pump at 25psi
A few months later I had AEM EMS installed and tuned and got 450whp on 93 pump with 22psi
These were done with an AMS GT35R Kit + supporting mods
However with the installation of the ems I also installed 1000cc, Magnus SI and 75mm tb so my comparison was not really accurate
In drivability b/w the 2 was night and day though
With DynoFlash I just left it alone and had no problems with only 6hp less
With the standalone I had to always plug my laptop in once a day
Weather, climate and altitude changes messed with my ems and i would always have to tweak it everytime
Evolved Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
Good point - I have seen over time that many, many case. The fact is that the boost gauge on 95% of car's dashes is NOT ACCURATE.
At Pruven we have a known mechanical gauge which is confirmed to be accurate that we typically use to check against the customer's gauge
In the case of my road tuned flashes I use a MAP sesnor which is very accurate and which usually shows that mechanical gauges read low
My point is that if your boost gauge is off by 1.5 0r 2 psi (which is very common) your power may be rather low and your track times may be off as well.
I have noted that in most cases the boost gauges read higher than the actual boost
At Pruven we have a known mechanical gauge which is confirmed to be accurate that we typically use to check against the customer's gauge
In the case of my road tuned flashes I use a MAP sesnor which is very accurate and which usually shows that mechanical gauges read low
My point is that if your boost gauge is off by 1.5 0r 2 psi (which is very common) your power may be rather low and your track times may be off as well.
I have noted that in most cases the boost gauges read higher than the actual boost
I have Defi gauges and it shows that the max boost the car holds is .8 bar. how much lbs is this? - it seems low to me - I just swapped the plastic BOV for the JDM MR - do you think I have a boost leak somewhere? 
0.8bar is very low. you're making less than 14psi. 1bar=14.xxxpsi (can't remember the exact spec).
I have Defi gauges and it shows that the max boost the car holds is .8 bar. how much lbs is this? - it seems low to me - I just swapped the plastic BOV for the JDM MR - do you think I have a boost leak somewhere?
Originally Posted by Turbo-Ron
I have Defi gauges and it shows that the max boost the car holds is .8 bar. how much lbs is this? - it seems low to me - I just swapped the plastic BOV for the JDM MR - do you think I have a boost leak somewhere? 
Originally Posted by Turbo-Ron
I have Defi gauges and it shows that the max boost the car holds is .8 bar. how much lbs is this? - it seems low to me - I just swapped the plastic BOV for the JDM MR - do you think I have a boost leak somewhere? on evos a peak boost of between 1.4 to 1.5 depending on your level of mods and gas used is average
As for the defi gauges - they look great but they always seem to read significantly higher than the actual boost
The Standalone units offer way more flexibility than the reflashes, no comparison there especially when you go above the level of the stock turbo.
The problem is, it will only do as well as the person tuning it, period. The parameters are there to adjust you can make it do whatever you want it to do, but you have to know what to tell it.
I would challenge anyone with the reflash to match a properly tuned aem tune based not only on hp, but driveablity, idle quality, coldstarting ability, safety with alcohol injection by dropping boost and switching maps when a lack of pump pressure is detected, and I am sure there are some other things I can add. What about idle with 280 deg cams, perhaps a little antilag? Or what about some boost per gear so we can leave the line at a certain boost and ramp it up.
And alot more.
Price point is where the reflash wins because you get quite a bit for what you spend, you don't need to purchase new hardware, and you can perhaps pass an obd2 inspection if you don't have a check engine light for misfire at that particular point in time.
Sean
The problem is, it will only do as well as the person tuning it, period. The parameters are there to adjust you can make it do whatever you want it to do, but you have to know what to tell it.
I would challenge anyone with the reflash to match a properly tuned aem tune based not only on hp, but driveablity, idle quality, coldstarting ability, safety with alcohol injection by dropping boost and switching maps when a lack of pump pressure is detected, and I am sure there are some other things I can add. What about idle with 280 deg cams, perhaps a little antilag? Or what about some boost per gear so we can leave the line at a certain boost and ramp it up.
And alot more.
Price point is where the reflash wins because you get quite a bit for what you spend, you don't need to purchase new hardware, and you can perhaps pass an obd2 inspection if you don't have a check engine light for misfire at that particular point in time.
Sean
Originally Posted by beavis4g63t
the reason vendors are turning away from the afc is simple. money. there is a higher margin on the flash than there is on the afc. once a customer is hooked on the flash pipe they must come back to you for anything. we would rather let the customer be in controll over the car. also the afc has resale value for the customer which the flash does not. ****'s big knock against the afc is the lack of torque on pump gas. this happens when you have to add fuel in the low end because of increased boost on stock injectors. when you add fuel the computer sees more load and timing goes down. once you add injectors this problem quickly goes away.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Wa
can a standalone really run like stock ECU car??? stock ECU car has cold start, it makes cars easy to start up while the engine is cold. on my case, i have difficulty to start my car when i left it sitting for a while.
Originally Posted by blitz118
You should have had it tuned Sean Ivey. His AEM tuned cars run like stock ECU cars.
The AEM standalone unit has alot of configurable options for cold start, which must be configured for proper operation. Again we are back to my original point, the gun isn't innacurate because an individual cannot hit the target. The standalone units are capable of doing whatever it is you instruct them to do, remember in reflash tuning cold start and alot of other parameters that an AEM tuner MUST setup are not adjusted. Which is why with a standalone it takes skill to get a good result.
Sean
Sean
that sort of transition between high and lo throttle is a tuner issue. on a load bearing dyno you can really tune the car so that the partial throttle to wot transition is transparent.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dynotech Tuning
Northeast Region
1
Aug 21, 2012 02:23 PM
Nick@Precision
Evo 'For Sale' External Engine / Power
32
Oct 26, 2005 04:32 PM
