Hmm, they must be charging by the rpm ... my "ricer" gauges only go to 10,000 rpms, but then again they only cost me $70. Mmmm, EL lighting, mmmm

l8r)

 

With 280's most of your power is made up top. Minor adjustment can be made with cam gears to better suit your turbo setup and supporting mods. Lifter's and valves aren't a main concern when dealing with a cam swap. Those are usually addressed when doing more detailed head work. Springs and retainers are your main limiting factor with cams. Mainly the springs. Many people don't agree, but the factory retainers are of better design and lighter than most aftermarket titanium pieces. But, the springs are a different story. You start revving to 8-9 grand with factory pieces, and you'll get 'valve float'. Basically, your springs won't close the valve in time before they have to open again. If you want to rev like crazy with 280's, get a set of springs and a flash first. Dynoflash sets his new customers up with a 8K rev limiter. His flash will help you get the most out of the new setup, as well as help make more power in the upper end. But, if you're looking to rev any higher than that, you want to start looking at a stronger bottom end (pistons, rings, rods, and bearings.) You might want to throw in some head studs while you're in there. Let me know if you need anything else.

 

If you could comprehend what you read, then you'd know the answer...I already stated it on the first page. Hows that for a duh, dude?

 

if you want a car that revs to 11k and higher, stuff a cbr 1000 motor in your car, then you can take it to 12k. if you want to know how they rev this high, research the motor. it has a lot to do with stroke though...

 

Sorry to bring this thread alive after so long, but.. Just to clarify, HKS 280/280's installed in an otherwise stock head, will allow for 7800-8000rpms without valve float?

 

Wow this thread is just retarded.