Valve timing belt skipped a tooth (or two)
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Does anyone know if the tensioner pulley bolt needs to be loosened first before we screw down the tensioner tool (MD998738)? The service manual says to screw it down until the auto tensioner compresses then put a pin in the two holes, but VFAQs says to loosen the bolt first before screwing it down.
I know I can just loosen the bolt and see for myself but I want to confirm with someone who has done this before.
I know I can just loosen the bolt and see for myself but I want to confirm with someone who has done this before.
Originally Posted by Rallyman
Balance belt does not have to be removed to change the cam belt, it fits behind it.
If you remove the balance belt the engine may have a slight vibration because the balance shaft will not rotate but you will hardly notice it. However you'll get better acceleration because the rotating mass will be reduced and it also avoids the possibility of the balance belt breaking and causing problems with the cam belt - I recommend you remove it.
If you remove the balance belt the engine may have a slight vibration because the balance shaft will not rotate but you will hardly notice it. However you'll get better acceleration because the rotating mass will be reduced and it also avoids the possibility of the balance belt breaking and causing problems with the cam belt - I recommend you remove it.
you must remove the tensioner completely and compress it in a vice before the belt will fit over the cam wheels.
Does anyone know if the tensioner pulley bolt needs to be loosened first before we screw down the tensioner tool (MD998738)? The service manual says to screw it down until the auto tensioner compresses then put a pin in the two holes, but VFAQs says to loosen the bolt first before screwing it down.
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Thanks for your response, cruizinmax. I didn't want to over turn the tensioner with the tensioner tool (was at 20 turns before I stopped and decided to go another route). I loosened the tensioner pulley bolt and rotated it to get more slack. Then I took off the auto tensioner and used a vice to compress it. Next, I timed the cam belt and rotated the tensioner pulley to keep the belt taut( tigthtened the tensioner pulley bolt). With everything looking perfect, I put the tensioner back on the car and pulled the pin out after rotating the crank twice (the pin was loose because the tensioner arm was holding it down now for some reason). Left it there for 15-20 minutes while I put the downpipe and bars back on. Measured the distance between the arm and the auto tensioner body and it was in spec so everything went back on the car.
This was a nice experience and I wouldn't mind doing it again since I'll know what I'm doing this time. lol
This was a nice experience and I wouldn't mind doing it again since I'll know what I'm doing this time. lol
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