How To: Evo 9 cam install, MIVEC
How To: Evo 9 cam install, MIVEC
I recently had to do my intake cam again, and remembered how there doesn't seem to be any writeups specifically for the evo 9. Though there is very little difference I thought I would share a couple of pics.
There are great youtube vids on doing the evo 8s, so this will essentially be a supplement for the MIVEC guys.
The evomoto writeup is kind of the bible, but its for an 8.
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_articles..._article_id=18
More fundamentally for some the key to the cam job is making sure to manage your timing belt position. Here are some ebay tools I recommend. I didn't use them my first time, and should have, so this time I had them handy. The long bolt to back off the tension on the timing belt tensioner is simple and key.
The other tool specific to the MIVEC guys is the 17mm allen to fit the intake sprocket cap. I bought a harbor freight set for 6 bucks. I did have to grind off the face to make a really flat surface, because the cap on the sprocket is very shallow, so a rounded allen, which all of them are, will just strip the cap.
Here is an image of the sprockets to get an idea. You can see mine already shows signs of wear, because I tried using the rounded allen first, when I first did the cams.
You will want the engine in TDC, top dead center. You can do this with a 1/2 inch drive in the crank and turn it (out of gear). You can also shimmy the car itself in gear, maybe 3rd, until both sprocket marks line up with the marks on the valve cover. This orients the pins on the cams to the top. Now ziptie the timing belt to the sprockets so they don't move in relationship to each other on the belt.
You can also screw in the bolt from the tools, to reduce the tension on the timing belt.
OK, now remove the various little loom brackets and items on the valve cover, and then remove the 13 10mm bolts of the valve cover. Remove the coils and the top of the timing belt plastic cover (4 10mm bolts). If you can't get the valve cover off with relative ease, then you should probably not be doing the cams. I won't go into detail on those relatively simple removals. Its logical, and if its your first time take your time and put all the bolts in little baggies and label them. If you are doing this in the car like I did this time, take care you don't drop bolts or nuts into the engine compartment. You can waste more time looking for little crap, than you think.
The valve cover is likely stuck to the head a bit, but its a rubber gasket so just keep pushing against it and lifting up on the air vent on the end. Don't use anything to pry it up that is sharp so you don't tear the rubber gasket. Also keep track of the round gaskets for each of the spark plug holes.
Once you have the valve cover away you should see this. Note there are no zip ties here, and the end cap is already off.
You can simply remove the 3 10mm bolts that hold the covers over the cam position sensor units on the end of the cam, opposite the sprockets. This allow access to the 14mm bolt that holds the sensor on the cam. First take a pic of the sensor once the cover is removed so you can see how the paint mark is oriented up/top. It will need to go in the same way.
Here is a pic of the sensor side, thought I don't get one with the paint mark I mentioned. Doh!.
You will hold the cam in place with a large crescent wrench and likely need a pipe extension. You can have a helper hold that in place while you break free the 14mm cam angle sensor bolt. Once free the bolt with the slotted sensor locatore will come out, and therefore you don't need to remove the whole sensor unit from the head.
On the sprocket side you will stuff a bunch of rages under the intake cam sprocket and specifically between the belt and the sprocket to make sure no oil that will come out once the cap is removed gets on the belt. You want to avoid oil on the cam belt. Now you need to use the 17mm allen mentioned above and break it free, again holding the cam by the center section with the big wrench. Some oil will come out which is expected, but maybe a shot glass worth. Underneath you will find a 14mm bolt that holds the actual sprocket on the cam, and you break that one free as well.
You can repeat the same steps for the exhaust cam, but it just doesn't have the MIVEC component so its just a 17mm bolt in the sprocket side. The rest is the same, and therefore the same as the evo8 write ups out there already.
Here is a blurry shot of the sprockets off. You may need a rubber mallet to nudge them off of the cams. Having the tensioner lose is key now, or if you have the tool, this removes the tension and allows the sprockets to come off easily.
There are 6 bearing caps with 2 12mm bolts each. They are in there in exact order, and need to go back on exactly how they came out. They are marked, but its best to be organized and set them somewhere in exactly the order you see here. Take a good pic you can reference if needed. (note my shots are missing the last cap, which I will explain at the end, but doesn't apply to the rest of you)
You can note the orientation of the 'PIN' in the cam and the whole it mates with in the sprockets. These are up because its TDC.
I also used some bungy cords to apply some tension to the sprockets when they are off, so they don't droop and possible cause the timing belt to move off of the crank sprocket. This just kind of holds them taught while you work on the head.
Now gradually reduce the tension on the bolts, from center out in a alternating grid. The EvoMoto site has great pics for this. The key is to remember that the springs are pushing against the lobs of the cam with force, and if you unload the tension too unevenly you could theoretically bend the cam. So you do it gradually across all of the bolts. Same for when the new cam goes in.
Once all the bolts are removed you can pry off the bearing caps. I used a large pipe wrench and gently rocked the cap length wise (from hole to hole) until they lifted off. Once all the caps are off, the cam will lift out. Replace with your new cam and apply some oil or assembly lube to any shiny bits.
The caps go back on in the same order. Make sure the cam's PIN is up and you will notice it won't seat all the way. That is because, as mentioned above, the springs are pushing against it. Once you clamp the bearing caps down you will effectively be pushing some of the rockers which will allow some of the valves to open, again. As before gradually tighten all the bearing cap bolts. Usually noted to be from the center outward, but you can follow the resistance, just do a tiny bit at a time on each bolt. Repeat as needed on the exhaust cam. Its usually best to do one cam at a time so you don't mix up the bolts or bearing caps. The end caps need just a bit of RTV gasket sealant. Reference the evomoto write up for details.
Once finished with the cams I place the intake sprocket on first, and make sure its seated and finger tighten the 14mm bolt. Then I work on the exhaust sprocket, which can be tricky. In either case you may need to wiggle the cam with the big crescent wrench. The tolerance on the cam shaft and the sprocket is very tight so the slightly angle and it won't go on. Just make sure the PIN is seated and then finger tighten the 17mm bolt.
You can now tighten all the cam end bolts to spec with a torque wrench.
bearing caps are 15 ft/lbs
cam sprockets 98 ft/lbs
cam angle sensor XX ft/lbs
The rest is pretty much the reverse of removal. You can confirm TCD for the sprockets when the valve cover is back on, and you can shine a flashlight at an angle down to the crank pulley and see a marking for TDC of that pulley against the plastic cover, just to confirm everything is in the right place before you turn it over.
in progress........
There are great youtube vids on doing the evo 8s, so this will essentially be a supplement for the MIVEC guys.
The evomoto writeup is kind of the bible, but its for an 8.
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_articles..._article_id=18
More fundamentally for some the key to the cam job is making sure to manage your timing belt position. Here are some ebay tools I recommend. I didn't use them my first time, and should have, so this time I had them handy. The long bolt to back off the tension on the timing belt tensioner is simple and key.
The other tool specific to the MIVEC guys is the 17mm allen to fit the intake sprocket cap. I bought a harbor freight set for 6 bucks. I did have to grind off the face to make a really flat surface, because the cap on the sprocket is very shallow, so a rounded allen, which all of them are, will just strip the cap.
Here is an image of the sprockets to get an idea. You can see mine already shows signs of wear, because I tried using the rounded allen first, when I first did the cams.
You will want the engine in TDC, top dead center. You can do this with a 1/2 inch drive in the crank and turn it (out of gear). You can also shimmy the car itself in gear, maybe 3rd, until both sprocket marks line up with the marks on the valve cover. This orients the pins on the cams to the top. Now ziptie the timing belt to the sprockets so they don't move in relationship to each other on the belt.
You can also screw in the bolt from the tools, to reduce the tension on the timing belt.
OK, now remove the various little loom brackets and items on the valve cover, and then remove the 13 10mm bolts of the valve cover. Remove the coils and the top of the timing belt plastic cover (4 10mm bolts). If you can't get the valve cover off with relative ease, then you should probably not be doing the cams. I won't go into detail on those relatively simple removals. Its logical, and if its your first time take your time and put all the bolts in little baggies and label them. If you are doing this in the car like I did this time, take care you don't drop bolts or nuts into the engine compartment. You can waste more time looking for little crap, than you think.
The valve cover is likely stuck to the head a bit, but its a rubber gasket so just keep pushing against it and lifting up on the air vent on the end. Don't use anything to pry it up that is sharp so you don't tear the rubber gasket. Also keep track of the round gaskets for each of the spark plug holes.
Once you have the valve cover away you should see this. Note there are no zip ties here, and the end cap is already off.
You can simply remove the 3 10mm bolts that hold the covers over the cam position sensor units on the end of the cam, opposite the sprockets. This allow access to the 14mm bolt that holds the sensor on the cam. First take a pic of the sensor once the cover is removed so you can see how the paint mark is oriented up/top. It will need to go in the same way.
Here is a pic of the sensor side, thought I don't get one with the paint mark I mentioned. Doh!.
You will hold the cam in place with a large crescent wrench and likely need a pipe extension. You can have a helper hold that in place while you break free the 14mm cam angle sensor bolt. Once free the bolt with the slotted sensor locatore will come out, and therefore you don't need to remove the whole sensor unit from the head.
On the sprocket side you will stuff a bunch of rages under the intake cam sprocket and specifically between the belt and the sprocket to make sure no oil that will come out once the cap is removed gets on the belt. You want to avoid oil on the cam belt. Now you need to use the 17mm allen mentioned above and break it free, again holding the cam by the center section with the big wrench. Some oil will come out which is expected, but maybe a shot glass worth. Underneath you will find a 14mm bolt that holds the actual sprocket on the cam, and you break that one free as well.
You can repeat the same steps for the exhaust cam, but it just doesn't have the MIVEC component so its just a 17mm bolt in the sprocket side. The rest is the same, and therefore the same as the evo8 write ups out there already.
Here is a blurry shot of the sprockets off. You may need a rubber mallet to nudge them off of the cams. Having the tensioner lose is key now, or if you have the tool, this removes the tension and allows the sprockets to come off easily.
There are 6 bearing caps with 2 12mm bolts each. They are in there in exact order, and need to go back on exactly how they came out. They are marked, but its best to be organized and set them somewhere in exactly the order you see here. Take a good pic you can reference if needed. (note my shots are missing the last cap, which I will explain at the end, but doesn't apply to the rest of you)
You can note the orientation of the 'PIN' in the cam and the whole it mates with in the sprockets. These are up because its TDC.
I also used some bungy cords to apply some tension to the sprockets when they are off, so they don't droop and possible cause the timing belt to move off of the crank sprocket. This just kind of holds them taught while you work on the head.
Now gradually reduce the tension on the bolts, from center out in a alternating grid. The EvoMoto site has great pics for this. The key is to remember that the springs are pushing against the lobs of the cam with force, and if you unload the tension too unevenly you could theoretically bend the cam. So you do it gradually across all of the bolts. Same for when the new cam goes in.
Once all the bolts are removed you can pry off the bearing caps. I used a large pipe wrench and gently rocked the cap length wise (from hole to hole) until they lifted off. Once all the caps are off, the cam will lift out. Replace with your new cam and apply some oil or assembly lube to any shiny bits.
The caps go back on in the same order. Make sure the cam's PIN is up and you will notice it won't seat all the way. That is because, as mentioned above, the springs are pushing against it. Once you clamp the bearing caps down you will effectively be pushing some of the rockers which will allow some of the valves to open, again. As before gradually tighten all the bearing cap bolts. Usually noted to be from the center outward, but you can follow the resistance, just do a tiny bit at a time on each bolt. Repeat as needed on the exhaust cam. Its usually best to do one cam at a time so you don't mix up the bolts or bearing caps. The end caps need just a bit of RTV gasket sealant. Reference the evomoto write up for details.
Once finished with the cams I place the intake sprocket on first, and make sure its seated and finger tighten the 14mm bolt. Then I work on the exhaust sprocket, which can be tricky. In either case you may need to wiggle the cam with the big crescent wrench. The tolerance on the cam shaft and the sprocket is very tight so the slightly angle and it won't go on. Just make sure the PIN is seated and then finger tighten the 17mm bolt.
You can now tighten all the cam end bolts to spec with a torque wrench.
bearing caps are 15 ft/lbs
cam sprockets 98 ft/lbs
cam angle sensor XX ft/lbs
The rest is pretty much the reverse of removal. You can confirm TCD for the sprockets when the valve cover is back on, and you can shine a flashlight at an angle down to the crank pulley and see a marking for TDC of that pulley against the plastic cover, just to confirm everything is in the right place before you turn it over.
in progress........
Last edited by fireroasted; Dec 28, 2012 at 01:27 AM.
Since I am not a professional engine builder I installed my first set of cams and didn't realize one of the cams was not milled properly. I just assumed everything was on purpose. Essentially the end of the cam did not have a wide enough bearing to seat in the bearing seat properly and cover the oil hole in the head. This caused me to lose oil pressure and I chased unrelated issues for a long time because of it. Thanks to "newpassport" who had the same problem and posted it, I realized I had a defective cam. newpassport actually fixed the cam himself with machining. That is out of my league, but I contacted kelford and sent them pics and they sent me a cam right away. The point here is that when you do cams its worth checking them carefully, and one of the fundamentals is to know that the milled bearing surfaces on the cams should cover all of the oil inlet holes in the head. If they don't something is likely wrong.
Here is the before, or pic of the cam where the bearing is not complete. Check out the gap between the bearing seat and the cam.
Here is the after, or the replacement cam where the bearing covers the oil inlet and you can see how much wider the milled surface is. The pic is a bit misleading because there appears to be a gap, but that is only because in this pic the bearing caps are not yet torque'd down.
Here is the before, or pic of the cam where the bearing is not complete. Check out the gap between the bearing seat and the cam.
Here is the after, or the replacement cam where the bearing covers the oil inlet and you can see how much wider the milled surface is. The pic is a bit misleading because there appears to be a gap, but that is only because in this pic the bearing caps are not yet torque'd down.
Last edited by fireroasted; Dec 28, 2012 at 01:14 AM.
Good write-up. I used the head of a bolt for the 17mm cover. i just double nut'd the threads and used a wrench. For the crank cheater bar i went with a 3ft piece of bar from Lowes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-3...item1e7501cd8f
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We do, but using that section is inefficient for most, because it covers all types of work, which there is simply too many kinds. I am usually just in the ecuflash section and the how to's for tuning are mixed in which makes the most sense and how i learned it and got used to it. So I place and read the how to's in the relevant sections. Seems more logical.
We do, but using that section is inefficient for most, because it covers all types of work, which there is simply too many kinds. I am usually just in the ecuflash section and the how to's for tuning are mixed in which makes the most sense and how i learned it and got used to it. So I place and read the how to's in the relevant sections. Seems more logical.
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i need you help
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...edm-evoix.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...edm-evoix.html
The gasket is rubber, and if you are careful when you remove it you don't need to replace it. I have removed and reinstalled it many times. I just take care not to damage or nick it. During my build I removed it entirely and cleaned it very gently but thoroughly, then reused it. I think most people reuse it. I can tell you in the dozen or more times its been off and on it has never leaked.
Just to add to this How To, there is the whole discussion of bleeding lifters or not. It goes on and on for many threads, and there is definitive difference of opinion.
I have a thread here that started some time ago.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post10647499
It has some good comments from gurus, and the best video I have seen so far. Maybe a bit overkill.
I ended up doing the FSM version including using the diesel and leaving the lifters full of diesel upon install. They started quiet, and have been that way. So far so good.
The theories are leave them empty and let them pump when engine is started.
or
Have them full of diesel which is thinner than oil and will bleed out quickly into the oil system.
I have a thread here that started some time ago.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post10647499
It has some good comments from gurus, and the best video I have seen so far. Maybe a bit overkill.
I ended up doing the FSM version including using the diesel and leaving the lifters full of diesel upon install. They started quiet, and have been that way. So far so good.
The theories are leave them empty and let them pump when engine is started.
or
Have them full of diesel which is thinner than oil and will bleed out quickly into the oil system.