Boost leak test, gone bad!!
Originally Posted by dubbleugly01
What do you mean by the air is escaping past the wastegate flapper? Because of the vacuum line that goes to the wastegate, or do you mean the pressurized air goes through the motor, through the exhaust manifold, and then escapes through the wastegate flapper? If it's the latter, that doesn't make sense, the air will easily pass through the turbine wheel and hotside housing such that the wastegate flapper will never have any pressure on it to leak!
Something simple, crank the motor so that the valves find a new position and try again. Maybe the motor just stopped at a convenient place that has a bit of intake/exhaust valve overlap on one of the cylinders allowing all your test pressure to work it's way through the engine. Find a new resting spot and it may take care of itself.
If you think you have a hurt motor, ring blow by would pressurize the crankcase and it wouldn't be coming out of the tailpipe. A bad pcv valve would do the same.
A bent/burnt valve would cause it to come out the tail pipe. An open egr valve would do the same. Does anyone know the "resting state" of the egr valve with no power to it? If it is open, then turning the key on to supply juice to the egr relay may close it while doing the test.
Something simple, crank the motor so that the valves find a new position and try again. Maybe the motor just stopped at a convenient place that has a bit of intake/exhaust valve overlap on one of the cylinders allowing all your test pressure to work it's way through the engine. Find a new resting spot and it may take care of itself.
If you think you have a hurt motor, ring blow by would pressurize the crankcase and it wouldn't be coming out of the tailpipe. A bad pcv valve would do the same.
A bent/burnt valve would cause it to come out the tail pipe. An open egr valve would do the same. Does anyone know the "resting state" of the egr valve with no power to it? If it is open, then turning the key on to supply juice to the egr relay may close it while doing the test.
So I guess my question is, If all the air I blow in the tester blows out the tailpipe before letting the motor build any pressure, what kind of problems may I be experiencing
To close all the valves, set number 1 cyl. to TDC and turn the crank about an 1/8 of a turn. (use a wooden dowel down the spark plug hole to check piston position) I always tie the throttle plate open to get equal pressurization through the intake manifold and emissions hoses. The engine is only pressurized on the intake side, so the hotside of the turbo and the exhaust manifold is irrelevant. Capping off the UIP doesn't allow you to check the intake manifold gasket, fuel injector seals, pcv, throttlebody gasket, UIP to TB,or vacuum hoses. I can pressurize the system in about 1 minute to 20-25 psi and it takes a few minutes to leak down.
Compression test was perfect, cant undertsnad what is happening. Everytime I come to a stop and my car drops to 1k rpms my oil pressure light comes on and about 50% of the time the car stalls
Are you using a tire valve for you leak tester? Maybe you should try something that will move the air in faster. For myself, I regulate my compressor to about 40 psi, then watch the boost gauge climb in seconds. (This is with the tire valve) Unfortunately, your a little to far away to have you bring the car over. You might try a leak down test also to check the overall seal of your cylinders.
Originally Posted by kmcconn9
I would have to guess that your problem lies in the lower intercooler pipe. I forgot to tighten my clamps when I was reinstalling my lower intercooler pipe and got nothing on my gauge from the leak test. Wondering what the problem was, I checked where I was a sure enough the clamps were not tightened.
Originally Posted by timzcat
I'll quote myself because you never answered me. It is a simple question.
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