I have read some threads, and have not been to able to determine whether you provenly lose boost from an aftermarket intake. I recently put a Perrin intake on my car, but I only put the filter on the stock hose. I feel a better throttle response, no idle problems or rough ride,, but my factory boost gauge reads to 1.5km cm2...... What exactly is that? it feels as if i have quicker spool-up, but loose boost in the top-end. Does this make sense? and if i am gaining throttle response, and quicker spool-up, but loosing top-end boost, could be safe to say that i am not really loosing HP it is just being displaced differently???

 

An untuned intake can throw off your MAF readings and mess with your stock tune. 1.5 bar is 21.75psi. You shouldn't install an intake without a tune. There's really no reason to do it, and the results aren't worth the money. Losing power in the top-end cannot be replaced by perceived spoolup/throttle response.

 

I lost a bit of boost when i put on an AEM intake.. i've recently taken it back off and gone to a drop-in to keep my drivability and reliability as good as possible.

kg/cm2 = psi / 14.223343
bar = kg/cm2 * 0.980655

1.5 kg/cm2 (on the mitsu factory gauges) = 1.47 bar = 21.3 PSI

 

Thanks Man,. I put the intake on simply becuase i did not have to pay for it, it brings out the sound.... what boost does it have stock,, isn't it bout 18.5,,, so does that mean it peaks at 21.75 and steadys off at 18.5?? how did you calculate that? im sorry math is not a strong point.... and if its up to 21.75,, then why does everyone raise safely to 20? what exactly is Bar?

 

 

*sigh* As has been discussed many times, stock boost on the 05 peaks at 20.3psi and tapers to 17psi by 7k rpms. If you are seeing 1.5 bar or kg/cm^2, it's probably just a spike that settles, right? People get an MBC and set the boost to 20-21psi, which stays steady most of the way to redline and then tapers off after that, whereas the stock boost tapers off right away.

 

This works pretty good: http://www.lenntech.com/unit-convers...r/pressure.htm


Here are the stock specs from Mitsu..
Boost Press (WOT/3500) 20.31 psi
Boost Press (WOT/6500) 17.40 psi

 

The answer is simple, tune Instead of focusing your attention on a short ram intake, why don't you take a look at other "safe mods" you can have decent gains without a tune. For example, a TBE and a drop-in panel filter.

If you're set on raising your boost up to 20 PSI, then you should get some kind of ECU re-flash or a piggy-back unit that'll allow you to modify your fuel and/or timing. 20PSI is a well rounded safe number, but not without a proper tune.

As you learn more about your car, you'll hear the word "tune" a lot more often...

 

Thank You Warrtalon. I appreciate it truly.... ? so then i can *assume* that 1.0 kg/cm2 is 17Psi

 

Main Entry: bar
Function: noun
: a unit of pressure equal to 100,000 pascals or to one million dynes per square centimeter or to 0.9869 atmosphere

 

Assume? i just posted a link to a calculator.. are you reading this?

 

I have been hearing tune a lot, but i have always taken it from the posts that it is useless to tune unless you have mods. so i was going to get Turbo XS TBE, Forge MBC and the perrin intake,,,, i was going to get a mail in flash.

 

yes i have the formula,, thanks, it appeared while i was typing.. Sorry

 

wats up, yea if your going to spend the money to get those things, i would just get a electronic boost controller, the reason being is beacause it sucks if you dont have a utec and or laptop for the utec or boost guage to monitor the boost from the manual boost controller. and it also sucks when it is really cold outside and have to keep on adjusting it.

 

i have heard that the EBC are not as efficient? or as accurate...