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MOTOR REBUILD!!! Need Help.

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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 04:33 PM
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MOTOR REBUILD!!! Need Help.

Ok I am rebuilding my motor due to a spun rod bearing. I figured since I am pulling the motor, might as well build a stage 3 . I have rebuilt motor's before, but never an evo, and I was wondering if there are any suggestion's you all have on doing the rebuild. Looking for any suggestion's from what parts to buy, to helpful hints on the rebuild . Also is it possible to drop the evo motor from the bottom of the car? Thanks
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 04:37 PM
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All I can tell you, is the bottom is easier to pull it out with all the attachments. Good luck. I think RMR sells (or did) a complete DVD like a "chiltons" manual 40.00. not sure if they still do though.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 04:51 PM
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What is your goal with the car? I'll be rebuilding my spare motor over time and what I plan to do is to go with a 2.3L stroker setup that utilizes .020" over Ross pistons and Oliver rods. I'm also going to use ARP fasteners to hold everything together, such as the head studs, main studs and rod bolts. The balance shaft emliminator kit is also going to be installed to remove those hp stealing balance shafts.
Once I get it all together I will mate up a GT35R kit to it. My hp goal is 650whp with it eventually. I might actually decide to stick with the 2.0L, but I have time to decide.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 04:55 PM
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I pulled my motor out through the hood, but I already removed the head from the block. I also pulled the alternator off and unbolted the power steering pump along with the A/C compressor. I used an engine hoist to pull it out. You can pick them up at Harbor Frieght pretty cheap.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 05:13 PM
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From: south colton
i can not stress enough the importance of quality machine work. piston to wall clearance, ring gap, and use of a torque plate are critical.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 05:19 PM
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I would like to avoid pulling it out the top if possible, but if that is the easiest way, thats the way I will go.

Setup I am thinking will be

JE piston's .020 over
Eagle rods
Balance shaft removal
clevite bearings
New oil pump (just for piece of mind)
New crank-shaft if my journal's are damaged
Cometic Metal head gasket
Arp fastener's

already have stage 3 head w/272, will probably upgrade to 280's
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by beavis4g63t
i can not stress enough the importance of quality machine work. piston to wall clearance, ring gap, and use of a torque plate are critical.
I am lucky to have a very good machine shop near me.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bpclements
I pulled my motor out through the hood, but I already removed the head from the block. I also pulled the alternator off and unbolted the power steering pump along with the A/C compressor. I used an engine hoist to pull it out. You can pick them up at Harbor Frieght pretty cheap.
Did you have to remove the tranny?
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 06:50 PM
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Timing Belt Tensioner. I rebuilt a 2.4 Liter Eclipse motor and it was a pain in the *** to get the timing belt on, took almost an entire hour. You'll have to unbolt the tranny, should be better to leave it in the car anyways unless you plan on messing with it.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 07:23 PM
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I think it's easier to drop the tranny honestly. It seemed that way to me, but I have done many clutch jobs and I also have a tranny jack.
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 12:31 PM
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Has anyone dropped motor instead of lifting it out?
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 03:22 PM
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I dropped mine out the bottom, with tran still attached.
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