how to brake in new engine
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
From: Kent, WA
Originally Posted by Alias
When you search, did you use BREAK or BRAKE???
Bearings don't wear, they don't "break" in. If your bearings are wearing you have some other serious issues.
With a roller rocker such as we have there is extremely little wear on the camshaft, it also needs no break in.
The only thing you're really doing is seating the rings, combustion chamber pressure helps seat rings.
I've followed the same break in procedure on the 15 4G63 and 2.3/2.4s I built in the last year. I have a 0% failure rate.
FYI, this might be of interest to you. This is from Eric at AMS.
Tom, Here is how we break in motors here with regards to oil:
For the first 500 miles drive at varrying engine speeds. dont baby it but dont shoot the moon with it. The key is seating the rings in a variety of partial throttle and short bursts of acceleration. After accelerating let off the throttle, while still in gear, letting the engine slow down the car.
Check the oil at every fill up. The shop staff here does that with there own cars every time they fill up if that means anything.
Please keep in mind the new motor will consume a little bit of oil durring break in and even after. Heavy abuse and high boost levels will consume oil on even a healthy motor.
here is how the oil change should break down.
First oil change at 20 miles 10W40 dinosaur oil...we use penzoil
Second oil change at 500 miles 10W40 dinosaur oil
Third Oil change at 1500 miles 10W40 dinosaur Oil
From here on out you can change the oil at 3000 mile intervals and may switch to synthetic if you choose.
You can never check you oil too much
Tom, Here is how we break in motors here with regards to oil:
For the first 500 miles drive at varrying engine speeds. dont baby it but dont shoot the moon with it. The key is seating the rings in a variety of partial throttle and short bursts of acceleration. After accelerating let off the throttle, while still in gear, letting the engine slow down the car.
Check the oil at every fill up. The shop staff here does that with there own cars every time they fill up if that means anything.
Please keep in mind the new motor will consume a little bit of oil durring break in and even after. Heavy abuse and high boost levels will consume oil on even a healthy motor.
here is how the oil change should break down.
First oil change at 20 miles 10W40 dinosaur oil...we use penzoil
Second oil change at 500 miles 10W40 dinosaur oil
Third Oil change at 1500 miles 10W40 dinosaur Oil
From here on out you can change the oil at 3000 mile intervals and may switch to synthetic if you choose.
You can never check you oil too much
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Originally Posted by yesevo
i ve searched but coulnt find any info////
lots of people seems like taking it easy when it comes to brake in period...
but i m not sure about it....
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
tell me about it~
lots of people seems like taking it easy when it comes to brake in period...
but i m not sure about it....
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
tell me about it~
The results basically confirm what several people (including Eric at AMS, as posted earlier in the thread) have said: 1) Don't run it super hard, but don't baby it. 2) Don't use synthetic oil until the engine has some miles on it (IIRC Castrol suggested waiting until at least 5k miles). 3) Make sure the engine is at normal operating temperature before running hard.
I have owned 2 EVOS both 05's. And broke my car like a champ from the start. First EVO I drained out the oil and put some regular oil and ran hard for about 100 miles and changed drove it hard for another 900 miles with regular and changed back to mobil 1 at 1000 miles and it ran great.
On my second 05 i drove it hard with synthetic still in there and did my first oil change at 1500 miles and car runs great. ran a stock 05 that was broken in very softly for 1000 miles and pulled on him slightly every gear. It might be a myth or not but I like the fact that I break in my car the way i will be driving.
On my second 05 i drove it hard with synthetic still in there and did my first oil change at 1500 miles and car runs great. ran a stock 05 that was broken in very softly for 1000 miles and pulled on him slightly every gear. It might be a myth or not but I like the fact that I break in my car the way i will be driving.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: MN
Heres my procedure. I used to break engines in all day long on dynos for like a year at work and this is what works.
1. Right away put in NON-synthetic oil, as syn oil is too slippery and will slow down ring seating.
2. drive for about 8 hours total, normally. I mean like 0-3000 rpm, varrying the throttle and load, but this is really important -NO BOOST. Drive it like an old lady.
You do NOT want ANY cylinder pressure to blow by the rings. Blow by will impede the rings from seating.
3. after 8 hours, drain old oil and put in any good syn.
4. drive it like you stole it, or however you normally drive.
5. this is the key i believe is no boost till the rings have seated. all the engines ive done this to (turbo and non turbo all look like new after 120 hours at close to WOT, little leak down and even compression).
1. Right away put in NON-synthetic oil, as syn oil is too slippery and will slow down ring seating.
2. drive for about 8 hours total, normally. I mean like 0-3000 rpm, varrying the throttle and load, but this is really important -NO BOOST. Drive it like an old lady.
You do NOT want ANY cylinder pressure to blow by the rings. Blow by will impede the rings from seating.
3. after 8 hours, drain old oil and put in any good syn.
4. drive it like you stole it, or however you normally drive.
5. this is the key i believe is no boost till the rings have seated. all the engines ive done this to (turbo and non turbo all look like new after 120 hours at close to WOT, little leak down and even compression).
Last edited by RFH; Dec 23, 2005 at 03:34 PM.
does our evo co]mes with synthetic oil right from the factory>???
and RFH has totally opposite opinion on how to break in new engine...
i dont know who to trust
1. Right away put in NON-synthetic oil, as syn oil is too slippery and will slow down ring seating
i dont know who to trust
I beat the holy hell out of my car for the break in.and (knock on wood) my car runs like a top, never a problem. The biggest things are warm up and cool down, and the early oil change.
Originally Posted by RFH
Heres my procedure. I used to break engines in all day long on dynos for like a year at work and this is what works.
1. Right away put in NON-synthetic oil, as syn oil is too slippery and will slow down ring seating.
2. drive for about 8 hours total, normally. I mean like 0-3000 rpm, varrying the throttle and load, but this is really important -NO BOOST. Drive it like an old lady.
You do NOT want ANY cylinder pressure to blow by the rings. Blow by will impede the rings from seating.
3. after 8 hours, drain old oil and put in any good syn.
4. drive it like you stole it, or however you normally drive.
5. this is the key i believe is no boost till the rings have seated. all the engines ive done this to (turbo and non turbo all look like new after 120 hours at close to WOT, little leak down and even compression).
1. Right away put in NON-synthetic oil, as syn oil is too slippery and will slow down ring seating.
2. drive for about 8 hours total, normally. I mean like 0-3000 rpm, varrying the throttle and load, but this is really important -NO BOOST. Drive it like an old lady.
You do NOT want ANY cylinder pressure to blow by the rings. Blow by will impede the rings from seating.
3. after 8 hours, drain old oil and put in any good syn.
4. drive it like you stole it, or however you normally drive.
5. this is the key i believe is no boost till the rings have seated. all the engines ive done this to (turbo and non turbo all look like new after 120 hours at close to WOT, little leak down and even compression).
Last edited by boostedwrx; Jan 15, 2006 at 08:05 PM.
Actually is the stock Evo IX oil from the factory dino oil or syn oil? As pretty much everyone is saying to break in the car with dino oil, I wonder if the stock factory oil is dino or not?
There is a reason Porsche, BMW M cars and the Evo are full of synthetic from the factory - its the best for the engine and they DO NOT want warranty issues stemming from lubricated engine parts failing.
I see no reason to install dino oil during breakin - only to follow the factory recommended break in procedure.
Unfortunately no one has done back to back comparison testing of either popular break in procedure so no one can prove there way is the 'best' way so take this post with a grain of salt and do what you personally think makes sense.
I would rather trust the manual than the results from a google search personally.
I see no reason to install dino oil during breakin - only to follow the factory recommended break in procedure.
Unfortunately no one has done back to back comparison testing of either popular break in procedure so no one can prove there way is the 'best' way so take this post with a grain of salt and do what you personally think makes sense.
I would rather trust the manual than the results from a google search personally.
