Busher has an intercooler custom made for Al(Dynoflash) for sale in vendor classifieds it's new. It's a steal if it is available.

Get a rad decal and plant it on the side of your car - sure to add 10 whp!

KAZZEVO8,


I already have the fuel pump and cat delete, they are just not on the signature.
Also, my Buschur UICP deluxe comes with the upgraded first gen BOV.

It makes me wonder something, does the stock turbo actuator rod needs adjustment so that it would hold the boost higher/later?

It does not changes the fact that before my alcohol kit and retune I was still running higher trap speeds on 91 alone. my 1/4 miles times dropped 2-3 tenth average, it is my tra speed what got me very worry, I was hoping no less than before and definately I was aiming for an extra 2 or 3mph but it never happened.

I have a larger IC, (PWR) with Methanol, what do you need to know? I didn't have a diary, and list the seat of the pants changes I noted. I put 2-3 parts on at a time, and the IC was early on. all seems fine with me!

Keep everything you have and swap in a bigger turbo.....BR20G IX edition would be my choice with you're alky trapping 120mph should be attainable.

Don't buy anything if it's not you're longterm plan though. My car feels slow as dirt, but because I'm buying a stroker, GT3567 etc etc soon I'm not doing anything else to it. I hate buying mods twice!!

My advice for what its worth

Engines are expensive to replace - ask yourself seriously what it would be like to have a cracked piston and have to replace your engine

When I tuned your car the tune was at 90% power potential as you saw on the dyno

IMHO its silly to press issues with alcohol tuning - the main thrust is that you can run it rich and safe and make plenty of power with a safe tune

If you were making same boost level at the track and you did not develop any boost leaks the car should have been faster - but maybe shifting or traction was a limitation

I say - keep your tune at a safe level with a saftey margin built in to preserve your engine

You are not John Force and trying to win races to survive - your car is a amazing street machine which can be driven daily and which can survive for 100,000 miles the way its tuned

Trying to squeeze out that last 20 whp with a dangerous or agressive tune is foolish

BTW - the turbo manifold is of limited value

Best mod you can get is a Evo IX turbo or a BR evo IX 20 g

AL,


I do take your advice, in fact I wish to know when are you coming back to Phoenix/Tucson? If it takes a Evo 9 20g turbo to get me higher trap speeds on 91oct then I am all over that, I want a Evo9 20G then.

Also, would you be able to improve power going from Alcohol to Methanol regardless of the type of Turbo or do you suggest keeping my Alcohol?
Last but not least, would I have to change my Nozzle to a number #10? how about the injectors, do I need bigger injcetors from that point?

Thanks!!

Carlos

Al, have u seen a evo9-stock vs. evo9-20g dyno chart yet,or have you had a chance to do a comparison between the 2?

Functionally, alcohol (ethanol) and methanol are virtually equal. However industrial methanol is cleaner and much cheaper (if purchased in proper size).


Alcohol/Methanol injection reduces the injector load, so your factory injectors are fine for your configuration.

while the octane of MeOH and EtOH are similar, methyl alcohol has the advantage of having ~30% higher latent of vaporization compared to EtOH(denatured).

http://www.dpraenvironmentalforensics.com/mtbe.htm

I didn't know that. Good info.

Safe tune = rich tune = less power; no more no less. wrxtoevo, you really got to ask YOURSELF what you want!

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/rich.php

From our testing and experience there is no additional tuning or adjustment needed what so ever when swapping denatured alcohol which contains menthanol and 100% staight methanol. The function is nearly identical. You may be able to run a bit more boost with mentanol staight but the tuning parameters do not change at all.

I can come back to Pheonix anytime you are ready.

My additude is run your car at 90% power potential of the parts you have - never press for the last 10% in the tune as that leaves with with zero margin of error.

if you need an addditional 10% power - add more mods and keep the tune safe.

This same approach has made my race car a super reliable car even at over 600 whp

Not yet - However David Buschur has tuned them and discussed his results- apparently its a great turbo.

Slow car - you are missing several points in your caculation.

Especially on stock ecu cars - aviodance of any knock or loud engine sounds is crucial to allow the ecu to maintain the desired ignition timing. In many cases lean tunes have resulted in some knock activity which cuases the ecu to pull timing.

Also - dozens and dozens of dyno tests with stock turbo evos have shown that the gains from running leaner than how I set the Dyno Flash tunes are very MARGINAL and slight.

Reseach and testing has shown me the ideal compromise a/f which yeilds 90% of the available power while leaving the car very reliable and safe for long term reliability and use as a daily driver.

While a few more whp can be found by leaning out the car - there are risks associated with this style of tuning - particularly when you are running an alcohhol injection system.

The main point is that on the track NO TUNER has had better results with his customer's car than I have with my tuning methods.

My own Dyno Flash evo is tuned the same way and to date made the most power and went the fastest of any otther Gt35R equiped Evo 8.

In tuning there is no black and white solution. Its about using experience and judgement to find a happy medium and compromise which works for the particular customer. I think the results speak for themselves. People with my tunes have zero engine failures - zero problems and go plenty fast.