Forged Motorsports Mbc Question
Dec 31, 2005, 09:26 AM
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Forged Motorsports Mbc Question
I have the a forged motorsports MBC and I had a quick question. How many clicks when you turn the knob equal a 1 PSI change?
Dec 31, 2005, 10:03 AM
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OK Well I turned it like 7 clicks and It went up 2PSI I was wondering if this is usual. I just don't want to mess anything up. I know the stock ECU would pull timing if it started to knock but i just want to be cautious. I would like to hit 21 PSI on 93 octane. Anyway thanks for the info.
In your sig it says you have a autometer booste guage do you consider it to be pretty accurate?
In your sig it says you have a autometer booste guage do you consider it to be pretty accurate?
Dec 31, 2005, 10:12 AM
#4
It's the same on all MBCs. What I mean is you just keep turning it until you get to the desired PSI. It's a very simple concept. 7 clicks is nothing...that's not even 2 full rotations. On my Hallman Pro with the soft spring, it took 4-5 full rotations before I even saw the boost rise 1 psi. You have the soft spring in the Forge UNOS, which means you have to go almost all the way to the very end to get 21psi, since it maxes at 22psi.
Dec 31, 2005, 11:29 AM
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I'm getting the impression that you don't have a boost gauge, correct?
If you don't, you really need to get one before you start tinkering with the boost.
There is no deffinitive answer to your question, however. It will be based on numerous factors of which I don't have an equation for.
It will be based on -
- Which spring is installed in the boost controller
- What type of wastegate actuator or external wastegate you are using
- What the base spring pressure of the wastegate actuator or external wastegate is
- What other modifications have been done that will affect boost (ie: exhaust, reflash, etc.)
Once you have a boost gauge and you begin adjusting to your desired level, if you find that the softer boost controller spring is insufficient to get to the level that you want to be at, or you want a higher "ceiling" of adjustment, switch to the stiffer spring and start your adjustments from the softest setting again as the stiffer spring will increase the boost further with less turns of the knob than the softer spring.
If you don't, you really need to get one before you start tinkering with the boost.
There is no deffinitive answer to your question, however. It will be based on numerous factors of which I don't have an equation for.
It will be based on -
- Which spring is installed in the boost controller
- What type of wastegate actuator or external wastegate you are using
- What the base spring pressure of the wastegate actuator or external wastegate is
- What other modifications have been done that will affect boost (ie: exhaust, reflash, etc.)
Once you have a boost gauge and you begin adjusting to your desired level, if you find that the softer boost controller spring is insufficient to get to the level that you want to be at, or you want a higher "ceiling" of adjustment, switch to the stiffer spring and start your adjustments from the softest setting again as the stiffer spring will increase the boost further with less turns of the knob than the softer spring.
Last edited by Mike@Forge; Dec 31, 2005 at 11:36 AM.
Dec 31, 2005, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jxn evo 8
OK Well I turned it like 7 clicks and It went up 2PSI I was wondering if this is usual. I just don't want to mess anything up. I know the stock ECU would pull timing if it started to knock but i just want to be cautious. I would like to hit 21 PSI on 93 octane. Anyway thanks for the info.
In your sig it says you have a autometer booste guage do you consider it to be pretty accurate?
In your sig it says you have a autometer booste guage do you consider it to be pretty accurate?
Before I put on the Forge MBC it read 20PSI with Dynoflash Boost controlling flash.
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Jan 1, 2006, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike@Forge
I'm getting the impression that you don't have a boost gauge, correct?
If you don't, you really need to get one before you start tinkering with the boost.
There is no deffinitive answer to your question, however. It will be based on numerous factors of which I don't have an equation for.
It will be based on -
- Which spring is installed in the boost controller
- What type of wastegate actuator or external wastegate you are using
- What the base spring pressure of the wastegate actuator or external wastegate is
- What other modifications have been done that will affect boost (ie: exhaust, reflash, etc.)
Once you have a boost gauge and you begin adjusting to your desired level, if you find that the softer boost controller spring is insufficient to get to the level that you want to be at, or you want a higher "ceiling" of adjustment, switch to the stiffer spring and start your adjustments from the softest setting again as the stiffer spring will increase the boost further with less turns of the knob than the softer spring.
If you don't, you really need to get one before you start tinkering with the boost.
There is no deffinitive answer to your question, however. It will be based on numerous factors of which I don't have an equation for.
It will be based on -
- Which spring is installed in the boost controller
- What type of wastegate actuator or external wastegate you are using
- What the base spring pressure of the wastegate actuator or external wastegate is
- What other modifications have been done that will affect boost (ie: exhaust, reflash, etc.)
Once you have a boost gauge and you begin adjusting to your desired level, if you find that the softer boost controller spring is insufficient to get to the level that you want to be at, or you want a higher "ceiling" of adjustment, switch to the stiffer spring and start your adjustments from the softest setting again as the stiffer spring will increase the boost further with less turns of the knob than the softer spring.
I do have a booste guage I just wasn't seeing much of a change on it when I was adjusting the knob. I was really posting the question because I Know the guage I have isn't the greatest and I didn't want to put all my engine at risk. I really posted the question to make sure 1 click wasn't a 1 PSI increase or some thing like that. Anyway thanks for your help
Jan 1, 2006, 07:38 PM
#10
Originally Posted by JuancaROD
I'd say go with the stiff spring and give it 5 clicks, from there go click by click until you have your target PSI.
The stiff spring on the softest setting is about 24 psi. You do not need to use that spring. Listen to Warrtalon, you will be somewhere between 5 - 8 clicks from the max setting.
Jan 1, 2006, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by techause
The stiff spring on the softest setting is about 24 psi.
The stiffer MBC spring used in the boost controller on an Evo application where the OEM actuator is still being used WILL NOT double the base spring pressure of the actuator (which is 12 PSI). I haven't figured out the exact figure but it's most certainly not 24 PSI. If this is something you experienced, then I highly suggest you double check the spring as it seats inside the boost controller.
Jan 2, 2006, 12:54 AM
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woohoo! I may be able to help since I just got done installing and testing this! Thanks Warrtalon!
I have a VDO boost gauge and the stiffer spring in Forge's Unos MBC.
zero clicks, boost spikes to 15psi and drops to around 12psi. I beleive that is the stock wastegate actuator pressure.
22 clicks and I'm right around stock. 3rd gear spikes to 22psi and holds at 18psi. 4th gear spikes to 22psi and holds at 21psi.
Now here's the funny thing though as I was testing (3rd gear pulls). I adjusted it by incremental clicks of five. 5 clicks nothing (nothing meaning boost reacted like I had not turned it at all, 15psi dropping to 12psi). 10 clicks nothing. 15 clicks nothing. I read that the Hallman's required quite a bit of turning to actually raise boost so I kept on turning and testing til I got to about 40 clicks, which still showed nothing. 45 clicks and all of a sudden my boost spiked to 22psi-23psi-24psi (HOLY ****!!!) then I let off before I blew anything. backed it back down to 40clicks, once again boost slimbed to 24psi and I backed off before I hurt it. 35 clicks, same thing. So I dropped it all the way back down and started from 5 clicks. I think when I switched out the spring for the stiffer one, I may have seated the spring on it's base too hard so that it was stuck or something (or maybe I just seated it wrong) and the high boost pressures may have pushed the spring loose enough to start working. Surprisingly I did not hear any knock and car did not pull timing or anything. Car felt like it would happily boost itself to death.
tips:
find a nice open, deserted road. I used a big business park, the holiday and it being Sunday sure helped me out. I think I must've made around 20 passes up and down the road.
Make sure no one is around before each and every pass. This is for your safety as well as others. I had my eyes glued to my boost gauge. I barely had time to look at the road, especially when I had the MBC jacked up to "blow to smitherens"
Keep your eyes on your boost gauge! if 22 clicks for me is stock boost levels, imagine it at 45 clicks!!! If you don't have a boost gauge you trust, get one that you do!
Make sure no one is around before each and every pass. This is for your safety as well as others. Had to reiterate this one.
I have a VDO boost gauge and the stiffer spring in Forge's Unos MBC.
zero clicks, boost spikes to 15psi and drops to around 12psi. I beleive that is the stock wastegate actuator pressure.
22 clicks and I'm right around stock. 3rd gear spikes to 22psi and holds at 18psi. 4th gear spikes to 22psi and holds at 21psi.
Now here's the funny thing though as I was testing (3rd gear pulls). I adjusted it by incremental clicks of five. 5 clicks nothing (nothing meaning boost reacted like I had not turned it at all, 15psi dropping to 12psi). 10 clicks nothing. 15 clicks nothing. I read that the Hallman's required quite a bit of turning to actually raise boost so I kept on turning and testing til I got to about 40 clicks, which still showed nothing. 45 clicks and all of a sudden my boost spiked to 22psi-23psi-24psi (HOLY ****!!!) then I let off before I blew anything. backed it back down to 40clicks, once again boost slimbed to 24psi and I backed off before I hurt it. 35 clicks, same thing. So I dropped it all the way back down and started from 5 clicks. I think when I switched out the spring for the stiffer one, I may have seated the spring on it's base too hard so that it was stuck or something (or maybe I just seated it wrong) and the high boost pressures may have pushed the spring loose enough to start working. Surprisingly I did not hear any knock and car did not pull timing or anything. Car felt like it would happily boost itself to death.
tips:
find a nice open, deserted road. I used a big business park, the holiday and it being Sunday sure helped me out. I think I must've made around 20 passes up and down the road.
Make sure no one is around before each and every pass. This is for your safety as well as others. I had my eyes glued to my boost gauge. I barely had time to look at the road, especially when I had the MBC jacked up to "blow to smitherens"
Keep your eyes on your boost gauge! if 22 clicks for me is stock boost levels, imagine it at 45 clicks!!! If you don't have a boost gauge you trust, get one that you do!
Make sure no one is around before each and every pass. This is for your safety as well as others. Had to reiterate this one.
Last edited by zze86; Jan 2, 2006 at 12:57 AM.
Jan 2, 2006, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by zze86
"blown to smitherenes"
(If that's what this was intended to be?)
Apr 16, 2006, 02:48 AM
#15
How much boost should you be able to hold in lets say third and fourth gear ? I have this boost controller and can never hold more than 18psi to re line unless I do a third or fourth gear roll on. From a dig I CANNOT hold more than 18psi to redline. It spikes to 21 and falls to 18. I have the stiff spring installed....I think I just need a bigger turbo lol 
....no boost leaks...I am teed into the bov vacum line...Could that make the diff??? If I could hold more boost longer I bet this car would go 11.5.11.7@116-118 all day long. I still have the stock actuator which I know hinders boost holding but damn...I figured I could hold more than this crap...stupid 16g.
....no boost leaks...I am teed into the bov vacum line...Could that make the diff??? If I could hold more boost longer I bet this car would go 11.5.11.7@116-118 all day long. I still have the stock actuator which I know hinders boost holding but damn...I figured I could hold more than this crap...stupid 16g.
Last edited by tony gibson; Apr 16, 2006 at 02:50 AM.