I know the AVC-R allows it and so does the Blitz. I was quite surprised when I first joined the forum and noticed that MBC's were so popular and EBC's were shunned....almost seems like a dirty little secret, all of us swapping out solenoids, BOV's, actuators, etc...to maintain flat boost when all we needed to do was purchase the appropriate EBC or solenoid for the AEM! Wonder how the Apexi PFC is at controlling boost using the stock solenoid...it did very well on my 7. About the same expense, but less work. I know the MBC's are a WHOLE lot less expensive which is part of the appeal. And tuning EBC's can be quite difficult. It took me weeks to tune my AVC-R on the RX7 when it was fully sequential. I finally had to take it to the track to dial it in. It's much easier with a single turbo I'm sure.

 

Not quite. The E-01 has an RPM Offset feature that is similar - but not quite as impressive.

 

Wow!!!!And you where just taking to me about that 2 weeks ago!!! At the Pizzeria Congrat!!! to Luis & David .
Remember what you promise Luis ,I'll see you here next week!!!

 

Hey there,

Is your boost solenoid set up as an "interupter" type of boost controler where it interupts the boost signal going to the wastegate actuator (a ball and spring MBC is an interupter style controler) or is it set up as a bleeder valve?

I ask because I had mine set up as an interupter system, and I was able to get a rock steady boost on a long pull in a single gear with great results, but no matter what I did with the feedback system I would get big boost spikes on a run through the gears.

If yours is set up as a bleeder system, and you are not getting boost spike problems I will have to try this out again with your setup.

Keith

 

With the interrupter style did you still have the stock boost pill in the vaccuum line?

I use the Perrin EBCS and for bleeder type it requires the use of the restrictor pill, but for the interrupter type it says to take the pill out.

That could be the cause of the spike...

 

emissions where i live are tough, thats y i opted for the UTEC/tuner pro combo. still got the stock ECU but not sure how the BC works on the UTEC i never really messed around with it. I wish that i could go with the AEM but i dont think that it would make my life any easier

 

David Buschur is the man

 

Keep us updated

 

Nope, I used it without any restrictor pill in the line.... just didn't work worth a damn as an interupter for me

Keith

 

Holding boost to redline.........priceless (not anymore)

Good Research

When I put my Xede, it was cold (outside) and my boost table wasn't adjusted, I hit 23psi @3500 and only tapered to 21-22. I had to adjust this though, as Cali has wonderful gas. My car was/is some what stock and I dont think the boost will holded so well when I get exhaust, cams, alky.

 

Page 1 answers...

First off, the AEM EMS is not for everyone. I don't even recommend it until you have passed our Stage 4 and have moved onto some type of pretty serious turbo upgrade. In other words for most people I'd say Stage 4 and a 20G should still be on a custom reflashed ECU.

I heard horror stories about the EMS boost control too. When I saw Luis' graph though I was atleast curious enough to try it. We have tried a ton of electronic controllers over the years. We have also gotten to the point that if a customer brings one in with a bunch of options and rediculously long instruction book we simply unhook the electronic, set the boost with a manual controller, tune the car and then remove the manual and hook the electronic back up. When the customer comes we explain that they will need to set their boost at "20" psi or whatever we tuned it at. This however was SIMPLE. It honestly took me, for sure, less than 10 dyno pulls. I am guessing only 5-6 and I now have a better-flatter boost curve than ANY stock style turbo'd EVO I have ever came across. I started high on my mapping and backed it down from there as I had no idea where to start.

Don't run out and by an electronic boost controller as we have put quite a bit of effort into many of them in the past, until now I haven't found something better than a good old manual controller.

Yes, you need a laptop to set up and change the boost settings if you have the EMS. You will also need a seloniod and wiring harness for the selonoid. We have them and I am going to make a simple instruction sheet to include with them to get you atleast most of the way there.

I don't know if the ECU+ would work as well or if this selonoid could be used with it.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

page 2,

Matt55,

I have actually run the car with the line completely off the wastegate and had the same results, boost would hit 30+ psi and then still fall off to something very low, say 22-23 if I remember correctly. In this case that isn't what I was doing. I have the car on 94 octane now so I am doing all this testing at a boost level I feel comfortable giving a customer. I have been keeping the highest point at no more than 23.0. Then it falls off from there to 18-19 psi at 7,000 rpm. I use a high boost actuator on my car so when I am on pump gas I simply run my boost source hose directly to the actuator, no controller at all, straight line from the BOV to the actuator. This give me 22-23 peak psi and it falls to 18-19 at redline. When I go onto race gas I simply put the boost control back into the loop (was permanently mounted) and it goes to 30 psi peak and fell to around 22-23. Now I have the selonoid inline, boost in one end and then out the other end to the wastegate actuator. The boost hits 22-23 psi at 3500 rpm and stays flat to 7,000. Honestly it makes no more sense to me than it does you. I don't quite get it either as I thought before the backpressure in the turbine housing was actually pushing the wastegate open and that is why it was bleeding the boost down. Obviously that wasn't it.

04awdturbo,

The first pull I hit 30 psi. After that the tables I adusted were the boost tables. The fueling is all set up, I had no reason to change that. Tuning is/was done, just was figuring out the boost tables. In the end I had 22-23 psi flat to redline.

Something else. PLEASE do not go out and waste your money on some expensive BS electronic boost controllers. I have tried many of them, some of you have had different results I see, but many do NOT work better than a manual. Go back and do some searching MANY magazines have tested boost controllers and when I review them I can't remember seeing ANY spool faster or hold boost longer.

Some EVO's will hold a nice flat boost line on the stock turbo even with a manual controller. It comes down to how "used up" the turbo is. A typical Stage 1-3 EVO will usually hold a decent flat line. In my case the engine is very built, breathes very well, it is harder to keep the engine full of air so the boost falls off more.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Yep.. if you really gotta squeeze more boost out of the stock turbo (and your already at 100% duty cycle on the boost map), simply add another restrictor in the wastegate signal line (between the lower IC pipe and the "T"). I use a 1.98mm drill to drill a hole in a small section of aluminum dowel and put it just after the factory restrictor). Real easy to do.

Result:
Instead of needing to run 90% duty cycle to get a given amount of boost, you will now only need 40-45%. This also means that you can run more boost up top if you really want to overspeed the turbo.

Regards,
shiv

 

Could you elaborate on this a little bit more. I am seriously debating the AEM come this spring. Al's custom tune has been nothing short of amazing. I am mostly interested in the standalone for its safety features while running alky as well as the ability to run multiple maps for meth, race gas, etc as I am running meth all the time right now. Major purchases this spring include your evo9 20g and a new clutch.
Holding boost until redline makes the AEM sound even better. Any input is greatly appreciated as always. Thanks again for your continued pursuit of evo excellence.

 

I really like the Power FC and have been using them more and more often for tuning. We are a Pro dealer so I have the killer software for it I have not used the boost control yet but have been told by Apexi it is excellent. I have two boost control kits at the shop for it. The Power FC is actually on Jarrod's EVO, I will be trying it on his car.

Fourdoor,

I have the selonoid inline with the actuator. I am running it so the higher the duty cycle you input the higher the boost the car runs. To run 22-23 psi I am only in the 80% range at 7000 rpm. The car was as high as 27-28 psi before.

Your car had a good flat boost line anyway if I remember correctly. With the external wastegate and GT35R they are usually very flat, no?

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com