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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 08:24 PM
  #61  
justchil's Avatar
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Man I wish I could afford AEM EMS Good work.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 12:54 PM
  #62  
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The AEM boost control is certainly badass.. I prefer EBCs in general, for their convenience...but

...for those of you with manual boost controllers, all hope is not lost. You can get rid of the spiking and hold solid boost to redline by experimenting with the bleed hole size on the WG line of the controller. Its a delicate balance between too much spike, and not enough respool on the shift, but if you play with the fitting, drilling different size holes, you can get awesome boost control with a cheap MBC. I think I settled on 1/16" hole (would have to check my notes to be sure), which got rid of the spike and got solid boost all the way to redline on an MBC equipped stock turbo EVO. This isn't a problem on slower spooling turbos, which is what most MBCs are setup for, but for the quick reacting, lighting spooling stockers...most MBC's bleed holes aren't sized properly. A cheap fix.

Hope this helps.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 01:46 PM
  #63  
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Shiv,
I got a 1.9mm drill to make a dowel for my boost hose when I measured the factory boost pill I noticed the 1.9mm drill is much larger than the factory hole. I dont see how this additional pill is going to raise the boost.

Could you explain? Thanks in advance
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 09:37 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
Yep.. if you really gotta squeeze more boost out of the stock turbo (and your already at 100% duty cycle on the boost map), simply add another restrictor in the wastegate signal line (between the lower IC pipe and the "T"). I use a 1.98mm drill to drill a hole in a small section of aluminum dowel and put it just after the factory restrictor). Real easy to do.
Quick questions . . .

(1) You say add "another" restrictor. I take this as adding a second one and not one in lieu of the original?

(2) Please confirm the size of the hole, and the size of the dowel for that matter if possible.

Finally, you placed a restrictor (pulled it out of your toolbox) in my signal line to raise my boost to 25psi w/methanol in the course of your tuning at Dyno4mance. Would this by chance be exactly the piece you are describing?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 03:43 AM
  #65  
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From: Danville/Blackhawk, California
Originally Posted by EVO8_DEES_NUTS
Shiv,
I got a 1.9mm drill to make a dowel for my boost hose when I measured the factory boost pill I noticed the 1.9mm drill is much larger than the factory hole. I dont see how this additional pill is going to raise the boost.

Could you explain? Thanks in advance

Ooops... Got my numbers mixed up. The drill bit to use is a #60. It's very tiny size. About 70% the diamater of the stock resistrictor. It can go in-line with the stock restrictor (just downstream of it).
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 03:56 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by racegate
The AEM boost control is certainly badass.. I prefer EBCs in general, for their convenience...but

...for those of you with manual boost controllers, all hope is not lost. You can get rid of the spiking and hold solid boost to redline by experimenting with the bleed hole size on the WG line of the controller. Its a delicate balance between too much spike, and not enough respool on the shift, but if you play with the fitting, drilling different size holes, you can get awesome boost control with a cheap MBC. I think I settled on 1/16" hole (would have to check my notes to be sure), which got rid of the spike and got solid boost all the way to redline on an MBC equipped stock turbo EVO. This isn't a problem on slower spooling turbos, which is what most MBCs are setup for, but for the quick reacting, lighting spooling stockers...most MBC's bleed holes aren't sized properly. A cheap fix.

Hope this helps.
I teed a turboxs ABC(an adjustable "needle" valve) to the WG line of my hallman mbc. Was able to keep boost from tapering. I am not running this setup now because my solenoid valve is attached to the WG line incase of a injection system fault, will not allow me to go pass WG pressure~12psig.

Last edited by SlowCar; Dec 12, 2006 at 07:06 PM.
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 07:46 AM
  #67  
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This post was just brought to my attention, I realize it is old.

The AEM boost controller using the GM solenoid that I had used over a year ago when I made this thread, ended up being extremely un-usable on the street and track. I wasn't the only one that had problems with it and stopped using it. I guess this thread got lost track of or I would have posted this long ago.

Back to manual controllers for us........
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 07:14 PM
  #68  
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AMS uses the AEM boost control solenoid controlled by the AEM EMS. It works perfect on my friend's car. Have not noticed boost changing substantially with weather.

Maybe the AEM solenoid works better than the GM one? I dunno?? Have you tried it yet?
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 07:59 PM
  #69  
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From: Illinois
Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
AMS uses the AEM boost control solenoid controlled by the AEM EMS. It works perfect on my friend's car. Have not noticed boost changing substantially with weather.

Maybe the AEM solenoid works better than the GM one? I dunno?? Have you tried it yet?
That's what I was told as well. The GM boost solenoid is crap. I use the AEM boost solenoid with my AEM and it works great.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 09:47 AM
  #70  
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More info on this would be useful. Their is interest in CA that irevolving around using the GM boost selonoid with the the stock ecu using Ecuflash. Do others who have used the GM selonoid agree or disagree with Buschur? Here is the link if anyone wants to throw in their two cents:

http://www.socalevo.net/index.php?op...&topic=45138.0

You may have to log in to view it.

Last edited by Smogrunner; Jun 30, 2007 at 03:56 PM.
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