I'm in the proccess of installing my Forge MBC and realized that the vac line I picked up is too big(ID). The other vac hose I have has a smaller ID than the stock hose I took off. Will it affect my performance if I use a smaller ID hose running to my MBC from the wastegate & back to the turbo?
Will my turbo spool more quickly if I tap into the BOV line VS the turbo?

 

what, no answer? Surely someone has an answer.

 

Give it more than an hour before you expect a reply.

Smaller I.D. hose is better than larger I.D. hose. Get the smallest I.D. that will fit your application and use the shortest lengths possible. This will help to keep spool time to a minimum. It's the same theory behind having the shortest intercooler pipes as possible. The less volume to fill up, the less lag/spool time.

 

Thanks for your reply.
Yeah I guess I should be a little more patient. I went ahead and completed the install using the smaller ID hose. I went the route where I run the hose from the wastegate to the side nipple on the MBC and the hose from the turbo to the bottom nipple. looped off the factory boost device and capped the intake nipple. Any suggestions on the best place to mount it in order to keep the lines shorter?

 

I mounted mine on a bolt near the right hand side of the valve cover. See the picture to get an idea.

I've removed lots of other components that were around that area, however, so you may have to do some tinkering of your own and possibly drill a hole in one of the brackets to get it to look how you want it to.

 

Well, I just got back from a road test, 1st pass hit 23 psi w/ a spike @ 26. I immediately pulled over turned the MBC10 clicks - and made another pass, went to 22 psi and held perfectly. Made a few 3rd & 4th passes, spiked to 24-25 psi, then immediately dropped to 22, held it all the way to red line. Now I just need to get it retuned to take full advantage of the mods.
Thanks for the advise!

 

YOu probably don't want to run your boost that high, though. 24-25psi on pump gas is not good. I run that much on race gas, but only a 22psi spike on pump gas. I'd say that you should set it so that it spikes NO HIGHER than 23psi in _4th_ (probably 22 in 3rd), so that it only holds 20-21psi to redline. You don't want to knock all over the place, especially down in south Florida with higher-than-average temps all year.

You can also see my mounting point for the UNOS here:

More Forge reviews (preliminary results)

 

Thanks, I'll make my adjustments tomorrow. BTW, would'nt knock be noticable? It was 49 degrees this eve when I road tested it and it ran great, I love cold fronts, no humidity!

 

No, it wouldn't unless it was so severe that you had a severe power loss. Knock would cause pulled timing, which reduces power, but most people have no clue they are knocking or pulling timing or running too much boost without a logging device to see the timing.

 

Ok, that makes sence. I'll set my boost to 20PSI and let Al play with it on Monday. I presume that all these issues will be taken care of when Al tunes it, so I should'nt have to be concerned after that.
BTW, I'm presuming that my Autometer gauge is within 1-2 psi of being accurate, would you concur.
Thanks again for the advice!
I'm going to bed, I'll check back tomorrow.
See Ya!

 

Al will read your boost with his MAP sensor, which will let you know how accurate your Autometer is. Once you get your boost profile to read 22psi spike and 19psi at 7500rpm with a nice smooth decline, then you'll be fine. Just be sure to know what that boost profile looks like on YOUR gauge after he's done.