Clay,

These are awesome results and a very nice and informative post. You showed the history of your car from begining to this point wih dyno graphs. It clearly shows that the parts you have chosen are making the power and the dyno charts clearly show this.

Congrats .

 

props to Warrtalon and an excellent write up!! I'm curious to find more out about this Forge actuator and what it could do for my car! Also what are youre next mods besides cams and Buschur FMIC? What size cams did you purchase?

How much is dyno time at Mach V? I've been going to Altered Atmosphere and cant get out without spending a fortune.

 

all this buzz about the forge actuator, whats the difference between the buschur actuator and the forge unit? Anything?

 

Looks good Warr, good write up for everyone. It's a shame you're not going to be around here for this race season.

Ivan

 

I think I recall a certain someone stating this in your Forge thread already.

Clay is a bright fellow. He understands that a 3" pipe is a 3" pipe. When it is polished stailless steel ss304, has a 1yr warranty, resonated test pipe, real muffler, and looks good for $565 TBE, it becomes a winner. It DOES NOT neck down to 2" at the muffler. Do not spread this fallicy.

Not only has it performed well on Clayton's car, we also use it to 405whp/445.1wtq so don't tell me it is a restriction or crap. Expect higher numbers from it in coming days.

 

Congrats on the new numbers, 11s are for sure now, it will be great to see you accomplish one of your goals. Congrats again and hope to see you on the 11 second list very soon.

 

A HKS DLI 2 might be needed as well since you are gapping the plugs at .21, with the ignition amplifier you could gap them at .27 to .28 if you wanted. Nice numbers.

Dan

 

I am confused on why you had to gap the plugs that much, I am running alky and similar boost on a bigger turbo? Is this typical on every car that you tune for alky Al? Would it benefit me gapping mine more? I run the NGK BPR7ES's, thanks.

 

Hey Warr, I didn't see a post in here about what cam you are using???

 

Not every evo's ignitions are created equal, some can get buy without an amplifier and still gap at .26 to .28 at those power levels. Others need to gap in the .21 to .23 range otherwise it just gets blown out in the upper rpm ranges. I personally will be picking up a HKS DLI 2 before I go to get tuned just in case, I will install it if I need it if not I will return it.

 

No cams yet.

jeff

 

Agreed, we gap to .026 and it takes 32+psi to start to break up ever so slightly, (maybe 3 small hiccups). We run the plugs until they foul and the next set is gapped the same way. I have noticed however that some client cars do not like the gaps at times and may need to tighten. I would not go smaller than .022

 

Stock Parts:
Upper and Lower IC piping
FMIC
Injectors
Cams
Cam Gears
FPR


**He stated this in his initial post

 

Warrtalon:

Nice results... The cams will really help you out when you are pushing that much boost. Which duration cams are you going with?

If you had to pull the wastegate arm at LEAST an 1/8" to get it on the pin, then your wastegate is closed fully. I dont know the spring constant in the Forge Wastegate actuator, but it is definitely closed flat. With the stock wastegate actuator, there is a 1 or 2 mm preload on the wastegate pin, that is the factory spec. So yours should be closed fully if you had to preload it at least that much. I tried the actuator on my car one time. I installed it just like the factory specs recommend. Mine would hold go straight to 17 or 18 psi and stay solid until redline with the UNOS turned all the way to minus.

I agree with TTP that the Megan racing is just as good. Its not made in USA for sure, but it doesnt neck down through the muffler. You can switch to the buschur TBE if you like, but you wont gain anything in my opinion. You however will probably lose a few pounds because buschurs is pretty lightweight.

The FMIC will probably help on the dynochart a good bit because it is so much heavier. There isnt much cooling on the dyno like on the road, so the stock FMIC isnt getting much air flow to transfer heat away. The bushur racing FMIC is much heavier and acts as a heat sink even when there isnt much airflow. It will make a difference on the road as well, but will really show up nice on the dynochart.

My $.02

Brian

 

It's very possible that this wasn't needed. We started out on my regular BPR7ES, and those held up fine on the pump gas runs, but when I did my first alky runs, the torque was HUGE each time (380+ 3 straight times), but I would then break up right at 5200rpm every time, so we went ahead and put in my 8s. I had pre-gapped them to .25-.26, but then one of the Ultimate guys suggested going much tighter, so that's what I did. In retrospect, I should have just tried the 8s with a regular gap, and then tightened them later if the ignition broke up, but instead we had them at .21 the whole time. This does not mean .21 was required for it to work. We were just trying to do as few extraneous things as possible so as to limit the time spent on the dyno ($$$). This was probably something I shouldn't have taken a short-cut with...