Final Results!! Buschur Ported Parts + Alky
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From: Down bai da Beach.
nice write up and great numbers without cams...also great to hear somethings about machv, ive been wanting to take my car somewhere closer to nc and from the sound of it, they are a great shop.
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
I think I recall a certain someone stating this in your Forge thread already.
Clay is a bright fellow. He understands that a 3" pipe is a 3" pipe. When it is polished stailless steel ss304, has a 1yr warranty, resonated test pipe, real muffler, and looks good for $565 TBE, it becomes a winner. It DOES NOT neck down to 2" at the muffler. Do not spread this fallicy.
Not only has it performed well on Clayton's car, we also use it to 405whp/445.1wtq so don't tell me it is a restriction or crap. Expect higher numbers from it in coming days.
Clay is a bright fellow. He understands that a 3" pipe is a 3" pipe. When it is polished stailless steel ss304, has a 1yr warranty, resonated test pipe, real muffler, and looks good for $565 TBE, it becomes a winner. It DOES NOT neck down to 2" at the muffler. Do not spread this fallicy.
Not only has it performed well on Clayton's car, we also use it to 405whp/445.1wtq so don't tell me it is a restriction or crap. Expect higher numbers from it in coming days.
I am going to do a A - B test of Buschur vs Megan to show you all just how restrictive it is
Originally Posted by TURBODAWG
Warrtalon:
Nice results... The cams will really help you out when you are pushing that much boost. Which duration cams are you going with?
If you had to pull the wastegate arm at LEAST an 1/8" to get it on the pin, then your wastegate is closed fully. I dont know the spring constant in the Forge Wastegate actuator, but it is definitely closed flat. With the stock wastegate actuator, there is a 1 or 2 mm preload on the wastegate pin, that is the factory spec. So yours should be closed fully if you had to preload it at least that much. I tried the actuator on my car one time. I installed it just like the factory specs recommend. Mine would hold go straight to 17 or 18 psi and stay solid until redline with the UNOS turned all the way to minus.
I agree with TTP that the Megan racing is just as good. Its not made in USA for sure, but it doesnt neck down through the muffler. You can switch to the buschur TBE if you like, but you wont gain anything in my opinion. You however will probably lose a few pounds because buschurs is pretty lightweight.
The FMIC will probably help on the dynochart a good bit because it is so much heavier. There isnt much cooling on the dyno like on the road, so the stock FMIC isnt getting much air flow to transfer heat away. The bushur racing FMIC is much heavier and acts as a heat sink even when there isnt much airflow. It will make a difference on the road as well, but will really show up nice on the dynochart.
My $.02
Brian
Nice results... The cams will really help you out when you are pushing that much boost. Which duration cams are you going with?
If you had to pull the wastegate arm at LEAST an 1/8" to get it on the pin, then your wastegate is closed fully. I dont know the spring constant in the Forge Wastegate actuator, but it is definitely closed flat. With the stock wastegate actuator, there is a 1 or 2 mm preload on the wastegate pin, that is the factory spec. So yours should be closed fully if you had to preload it at least that much. I tried the actuator on my car one time. I installed it just like the factory specs recommend. Mine would hold go straight to 17 or 18 psi and stay solid until redline with the UNOS turned all the way to minus.
I agree with TTP that the Megan racing is just as good. Its not made in USA for sure, but it doesnt neck down through the muffler. You can switch to the buschur TBE if you like, but you wont gain anything in my opinion. You however will probably lose a few pounds because buschurs is pretty lightweight.
The FMIC will probably help on the dynochart a good bit because it is so much heavier. There isnt much cooling on the dyno like on the road, so the stock FMIC isnt getting much air flow to transfer heat away. The bushur racing FMIC is much heavier and acts as a heat sink even when there isnt much airflow. It will make a difference on the road as well, but will really show up nice on the dynochart.
My $.02
Brian
It is nOT a matter of opinion or conjecture
If you look inisde the tip of the muffler you can see that the inside tube of the path through the muffler is smaller than the 3" pipe - actually this is very common
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
It's very possible that this wasn't needed. We started out on my regular BPR7ES, and those held up fine on the pump gas runs, but when I did my first alky runs, the torque was HUGE each time (380+ 3 straight times), but I would then break up right at 5200rpm every time, so we went ahead and put in my 8s. I had pre-gapped them to .25-.26, but then one of the Ultimate guys suggested going much tighter, so that's what I did. In retrospect, I should have just tried the 8s with a regular gap, and then tightened them later if the ignition broke up, but instead we had them at .21 the whole time. This does not mean .21 was required for it to work. We were just trying to do as few extraneous things as possible so as to limit the time spent on the dyno ($$$). This was probably something I shouldn't have taken a short-cut with...
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From: Long Island, NY
Originally Posted by superman105
warrtalon r u using SAFC II to tune for the alky on top of the Dynoflash ?
nice #s War.... theres def something wrong with my car since I have about 3x the amount of mod on my car and have similar hp... I am currrently changing setups to see whats wrong
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
It's very possible that this wasn't needed. We started out on my regular BPR7ES, and those held up fine on the pump gas runs, but when I did my first alky runs, the torque was HUGE each time (380+ 3 straight times), but I would then break up right at 5200rpm every time, so we went ahead and put in my 8s. I had pre-gapped them to .25-.26, but then one of the Ultimate guys suggested going much tighter, so that's what I did. In retrospect, I should have just tried the 8s with a regular gap, and then tightened them later if the ignition broke up, but instead we had them at .21 the whole time. This does not mean .21 was required for it to work. We were just trying to do as few extraneous things as possible so as to limit the time spent on the dyno ($$$). This was probably something I shouldn't have taken a short-cut with...
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From: Long Island, NY
Originally Posted by Rollaway
nice #s War.... theres def something wrong with my car since I have about 3x the amount of mod on my car and have similar hp... I am currrently changing setups to see whats wrong
Kee1Pride, that's a good question. We've already been tossing that idea around as far as getting a clutch sponsor, but I really need to show some results before entertaining that thought...