Final Results!! Buschur Ported Parts + Alky
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
IMO, you can have just as much trouble with too small of a gap than too large. The gap can be too small to create sufficient spark to ignite a wet meth intake charge. If a small gap was the answer to ignition woes, our plugs would come with a small gap, period.
warr.. I was only counting my power mods... Im using a Fujitsubo dp, ur test pipe and Fujitsubo cat-back... but this should only restrict me around 10-15whp...theres something wrong with my car as usual.. i just need to find it.... back when I had my WW 03 I made 355whp with much less mods than what I have now...
Warrtalon,
As always, awesome post. Those numbers are unreal for certain. Thanks for giving us a clear and descriptive post. I am sure many will benefit from this information.
I understand you are involved in this whole process but please don't open this can of worms in this thread - we have a forum for political bull****. Let's stick to the numbers.
As always, awesome post. Those numbers are unreal for certain. Thanks for giving us a clear and descriptive post. I am sure many will benefit from this information.
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
I am not into Cheap China knock offs due to my feeling the that Chinese governement is using unfair trade practices to advance its cheaper goods and they are also harming the environment with lack of proper regulations in production
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Hey Warr,
I was wondering if you were still using the stock gauges on the car? I assume that during the tuning there was probably a way to monitor the boost other than the stockers because 24 psi is way over the OEM gauges capacity. Especially on the 28 psi run.
Sorry if this is a tad off topic.
--Ryan
I was wondering if you were still using the stock gauges on the car? I assume that during the tuning there was probably a way to monitor the boost other than the stockers because 24 psi is way over the OEM gauges capacity. Especially on the 28 psi run.
Sorry if this is a tad off topic.
--Ryan
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Originally Posted by Pandasign
Hey Warr,
I was wondering if you were still using the stock gauges on the car? I assume that during the tuning there was probably a way to monitor the boost other than the stockers because 24 psi is way over the OEM gauges capacity. Especially on the 28 psi run.
Sorry if this is a tad off topic.
--Ryan
I was wondering if you were still using the stock gauges on the car? I assume that during the tuning there was probably a way to monitor the boost other than the stockers because 24 psi is way over the OEM gauges capacity. Especially on the 28 psi run.
Sorry if this is a tad off topic.
--Ryan
Warr,
Could you post up the exact kind of dynojet Mach V uses with the weight of the rollers if possible? I went to Mach V's website and it doesn't specify.
Also, just to humor those of us that always use a correction factor, could you post up that final tune graph in SAE and STD? Thanks.
Could you post up the exact kind of dynojet Mach V uses with the weight of the rollers if possible? I went to Mach V's website and it doesn't specify.
Also, just to humor those of us that always use a correction factor, could you post up that final tune graph in SAE and STD? Thanks.
Last edited by Smogrunner; Jan 18, 2006 at 06:31 PM.
Originally Posted by Pandasign
Hey Warr,
I was wondering if you were still using the stock gauges on the car? I assume that during the tuning there was probably a way to monitor the boost other than the stockers because 24 psi is way over the OEM gauges capacity. Especially on the 28 psi run.
Sorry if this is a tad off topic.
--Ryan
I was wondering if you were still using the stock gauges on the car? I assume that during the tuning there was probably a way to monitor the boost other than the stockers because 24 psi is way over the OEM gauges capacity. Especially on the 28 psi run.
Sorry if this is a tad off topic.
--Ryan
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From: NY
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
one thing you can clearly see is how I'm making tons more power at each step on the top 3 curves (all today), but that the power falls back down to almost the exact same power level above 6500 rpm
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Originally Posted by Smogrunner
Warr,
Could you post up the exact kind of dynojet Mach V uses with the weight of the rollers if possible? I went to Mach V's website and it doesn't specify.
Also, just to humor those of us that always use a correction factor, could you post up that final tune graph in SAE and STD? Thanks.
Could you post up the exact kind of dynojet Mach V uses with the weight of the rollers if possible? I went to Mach V's website and it doesn't specify.
Also, just to humor those of us that always use a correction factor, could you post up that final tune graph in SAE and STD? Thanks.
Here are the SAE and STD graphs for my daily driven tune. Let me know if you want any of the other tuning scenarios...
SAE shows -8whp/-9wtq from Base
STD shows +1whp/+1wtq from Base (who uses this? I want to hang out with them, haha)
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Originally Posted by Turbonautic
I use to make that same mistake, but that is not 6500 RPM's it is 65 MPH, it is speed not rpm.
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Originally Posted by TURBODAWG
Warrtalon:
Nice results... The cams will really help you out when you are pushing that much boost. Which duration cams are you going with?
If you had to pull the wastegate arm at LEAST an 1/8" to get it on the pin, then your wastegate is closed fully. I dont know the spring constant in the Forge Wastegate actuator, but it is definitely closed flat. With the stock wastegate actuator, there is a 1 or 2 mm preload on the wastegate pin, that is the factory spec. So yours should be closed fully if you had to preload it at least that much. I tried the actuator on my car one time. I installed it just like the factory specs recommend. Mine would hold go straight to 17 or 18 psi and stay solid until redline with the UNOS turned all the way to minus.
I agree with TTP that the Megan racing is just as good. Its not made in USA for sure, but it doesnt neck down through the muffler. You can switch to the buschur TBE if you like, but you wont gain anything in my opinion. You however will probably lose a few pounds because buschurs is pretty lightweight.
The FMIC will probably help on the dynochart a good bit because it is so much heavier. There isnt much cooling on the dyno like on the road, so the stock FMIC isnt getting much air flow to transfer heat away. The bushur racing FMIC is much heavier and acts as a heat sink even when there isnt much airflow. It will make a difference on the road as well, but will really show up nice on the dynochart.
My $.02
Brian
Nice results... The cams will really help you out when you are pushing that much boost. Which duration cams are you going with?
If you had to pull the wastegate arm at LEAST an 1/8" to get it on the pin, then your wastegate is closed fully. I dont know the spring constant in the Forge Wastegate actuator, but it is definitely closed flat. With the stock wastegate actuator, there is a 1 or 2 mm preload on the wastegate pin, that is the factory spec. So yours should be closed fully if you had to preload it at least that much. I tried the actuator on my car one time. I installed it just like the factory specs recommend. Mine would hold go straight to 17 or 18 psi and stay solid until redline with the UNOS turned all the way to minus.
I agree with TTP that the Megan racing is just as good. Its not made in USA for sure, but it doesnt neck down through the muffler. You can switch to the buschur TBE if you like, but you wont gain anything in my opinion. You however will probably lose a few pounds because buschurs is pretty lightweight.
The FMIC will probably help on the dynochart a good bit because it is so much heavier. There isnt much cooling on the dyno like on the road, so the stock FMIC isnt getting much air flow to transfer heat away. The bushur racing FMIC is much heavier and acts as a heat sink even when there isnt much airflow. It will make a difference on the road as well, but will really show up nice on the dynochart.
My $.02
Brian
Also, I was wondering why 8 series plugs would be better then a step colder with a 7?
Last edited by Turbonautic; Jan 18, 2006 at 09:09 PM.
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Originally Posted by Turbonautic
Also, I was wondering why 8 series plugs would be better then a step colder with a 7?
The mis fire in this case was just due to the high boost and the 7's being slightly beat
With high boost and rich alcohol mixture you need a strong spark to light it off
A HKS twin fire igntion upgrade is suggested
With high boost and rich alcohol mixture you need a strong spark to light it off
A HKS twin fire igntion upgrade is suggested
Based on the power curves what do you think would be the ideal rpm for upshift for drag racing?
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Actually, I was referring to 6500rpm, because that's where all my dynographs meld together, but in actuality, you are right that the real point where the power starts to decline is at 65mph, which happens to be 6k rpm. I think this is earlier than it should be even when taking the obvious falloff of boost on the stock turbo into account. I'm going to see if it's due to the WG still not being preloaded enough, thus causing the fully-tightened Forge RS to open up. Today, when testing my BOV on the road, I could get it to open when doing part-throttle boosting. It would just spit the boost out. I can only hold boost if I am full throttle.