Void- If you want to trade we could prolly work it out somehow. I live in Eugene Oregon, so exchanging might be a pain since its my dd. Let me know.

 

Nice review Blue Evo 8. You didn't mention if your shifting was better or not. I am interested in this mod because I need to improve my high RPM shifts.

 

I filled the top trans mount and the top engine mount with window weld in addition to the BR mounts, it takes a day or so to used to the little added vibation and then it's all good. If anyone needs a Powerflex front I have one for $45 shipped.

 

I had vibrations bad with the WR engine dampner, and was vibrating thru my seat bolts!!! I drove this way for 4-5K miles, and removed the WR, and the vibrations "seemed" less. The clutch cover bolt came up missing, then the oilpan cracked bolt to bolt, then all the Alternator brackets cracked, then the AC aluminum hose cracked off the compressor.. Things kept getting bad! In the end, it wasn't that stuff at all, it was the oilpump balance shaft being out of Sync 180 degrees, even though the marks lines up. This was done with a cam change, or a Timing belt change! You didn't do either of those did you? Around the same time? Be careful if you did. Later. (oh yeah, a Mitshu Mechanic did my belt/cams, and it was still wrong!)

 

To the original poster...

Although I have an OZ and not an Evo, I installed stiff motor mounts in both front and rear. There was an extreme vibration at idle until the mounts broke in and now the vibration is marginal. The little rattle I found though comes from the hood latch. The Hood latch does not seem to hold the hood down with a solid connection and as such vibrates.

You may want to check that area for the little annoying rattle you were experiencing.

WADAD

 

Yes I forgot, yes my shifting was 110% smoother, more precise, and trouble free.

I speed shifted from 3rd to 4th gears at 7000RPM's and it went in smoothly. I also have the underhood metal shifter bushings and the kartboy base shifter bushings as well...

 

I installed my Powerflex bushing day after installing my RnR 3" TBE. And like you I had the rattles. First I thought it was a DP. It would happen from time to time when I would go into the 1st gear from the stop. After close inspection I think I found my problem. It was my license plate. The top screws were loose, and there was nothing holding on the bottom. After taking off the license plate, the rottle is gone. At least for now in my case.

As for increased noise ? I do get little more vibration on the start, nothing to go nuts about, but the car sound the same to me as before, except for my TBE which is loud as hell lol ( 3" TBE with test pipe ). As for shifting, this is NIGHT AND DAY difference. Going from 1st to 2nd is so much better now. You let go off the clutch fast, there is no engine movement. The best mode for my Evo so far.

I was thinking, if the rattle is caused by the metal bolt hitting against the metal sleeve inside the bushing, would wraping the bolt with electric tape solve that problem ?

 

where do you get this window weld? the hardware store?

 

someone should try that electric tape idea

 

I checked the front and rear plates as well...I need to find some dynamat material to put in there to absord some vibration.

 

The buschur mount is 90 durometer... pretty close to 100. The added noise and vibration is the engine "harmonics" coming through the chassis. At idle, my whole front bumper rattles, which can be fixed easily, but i dont notice the added vibration through the wheel. While driving, the mount changed the sound and feel of the entire car. Either you get used to it, or try something different... go drive a v8 with solid mounts, the evo will feel like a cadillac.
Since I have access to a press, I am going to try out the powerflex as well eventually, and do a compare. The buschur gives exactly what is advertised, shifting, and overall response is greatly improved. I am also wondering if the rear mount would help or add any additional performance... has anyone installed both (haven’t seen that yet)

 

Glad to hear the motor mounts work as I said they would.

The improve shifting, keep the engine where it is suppose to be, add clearance between the downpipe and lower tie bars, need to be pressed in with a press but may be able to be persuaded with a vise. Pretty much sums it up

I'd tend to say if you are unhappy with the feel of ours going to someone else's (someone making a sales pitch in a thread not about their products expecially) isn't going to make you any happier. A SS sleeve is going to react the same as a chrome moly sleeve that we use. The noises that are being heard I would not think are coming from anyone's metal sleeve that runs through the bushing. My guess it is something else loose (like missing bolts, loose front bumpers etc.) The engine is resting on the steel sleeve and at idle the engine doesn't have enough vibration to rattle off the bushing. (hope that makes sense)

I could do these on a core exchange but people are in no hurry to send back their cores and it puts us behind OR with a ton of money wrapped up in inventory to keep enough stock mounts there. Just like our ported/coated turbo parts. Not worth it for us to do. I can sell them outright but not interested in doing a core exchange for them.

CBRE, did you get a chance to drive the car with the new front and rear mount in it? What's your feel on them, help with the shifting and keeping the engine in place?

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I just don't get it i have had my powerFlex Mount in for a long time now, i was the first person to have one so i did all the feed back on it and i'm a picky F**ker when it comes to my Car. I don't have any of the Prob's here, and i'm the first to tell ya if it don't work i'll rip it out of my car so fast. there has to be other things going on in some if not all of the cars here i just dont know.

 

I guess anyone excited about a product that shares their review is throwing a sales pitch? Sometimes being a vendor has it's downside, it seems as you cannot share an honest review.

Here is some more honesty:



As you can see, the 80 durometer is in orange (powerflex).



The 90 durometer is in blue as was stated earlier in the thread was what the BR units use.



The fact of the matter is I am sitting here with an Acrotech (polyurethane manufacturer) durometer sample scale in my hand and the difference between 90 durometer (Buschur unit) and 80 durometer (Powerflex unit) is SUBSTANTIAL. IMO the 90 is too hard on this scale and reminds me of a solid chunk of plastic.

It is not surprising that based on this 90 durometer, that the chassis translates all of the, starter, exhaust and engine vibration throughout the car while making the noise level uncomfortable. Dave, you should try a batch at 80 durometer and see if those come out any better for a dual purpose street and race car. 90 durometer seems more like a race-only or "drift" compound.

POWERFLEX mounts are made in 80 durometer at this time already and do not require a press to install. (FACT)

 

The bushing does exactly what DB says - less engine movement = smoother shifting and better throttle response. It's just that my torque damper did the same thing almost as well, and with not nearly as much noise & vibration transmitted into the cabin. My guess is the reason is the larger contact surface area for the bushing vs. the torque damper. If that doesn't bother you and you're stock to start, it's a great mod for the money; but if you already have a torque damper it's a bad trade IMO.

I'd love to try a Powerflex one for comparison (if I can find somebody who wants black color and is willing to trade), but if I can't I'll trade it for a stock one + cash.