The install of this kit went really well, everything went together like it was suppose to. My dad and I did the install in the drive way and it took about a day and a half to do. It is a lot easier to remove the radiator when putting the kit in because the turbo comes close the radiator-cooling fan. I also assembled the whole kit together first, including the first part of the lower intercooler pipe. After getting everything install I took the car down to CFT and had Jestrtuning come and flash my ecu and fine-tune my safc controller. We where not making any power on the dyno, my top power was 283 so we started trouble shooting and found out that the cams where installed wrong. They were install for a DSM and not for an evo so that is where all my power loss was coming from. So now I am saving to have this fixed until then I can't give you guys any good numbers for this kit. Here are the pics, feel free to ask any questions about the kit and install.

before


me trying to get the little steel clips off the injectors fun fun


680cc injectors


stock vs. new








my dad lifting the turbo in place


the new revised oil line


all installed




first dyno graph with cams installed wrong



this pic shows where the vacume lines goes on the wastegate. i had a hard time finding this info so i figured i would tell everybody, i know i can't draw that great . also i am using the greddy electric boost controller works great

 

i will post the new results when i get my cams taken care of.

 

Pics aren't working.

 

ooh cant wait until u show us some numbers...but did u install the dsm cams on the evo before this turbo kit install? and u didnt notice the power drop?

 

How did you determine that the cams were wrong? Was it the code on the box?

 

The way that the cams where put in was wrong. From what they told me the timing is off about 30 degrees. So I have to have the cams taken out turned 30 degrees and put back in. with them the way they are is like having a major boost leak inside the motor.

 

The cams are for the evo, but there are two ways of putting them in. there is the dsm way and the way for the evo. I am not sure what the difference is but apparently there is one. I put down 283 with out the turbo and thought that that was about right but I guess not. when i went back i had a 3 inch test pipe, aem intake and the new turbo kit with injectors and put down the same numbers.

are the pics working now?

 

did u get the ball bearing option? How is the spool either way?

 

I had the same problem when installing my cams .. i don't know if we are talking bout the same troubleshoot.. but the aligning the cam degree on the evo is different from the dsm s....

 

Are you using the stock fan? And the oil line, does that dump back into the oil filter housing?

 

No, I bought the kit before the ball bearing option was available. I just couldn’t put it in for a while until I had enough money for the tune and other supporting mods. It hits full boost between 4200 – 4300.

 

Ya, that is what I am talking about. And yes I did use the stock fan, and the oil line that is in the pic is the oil feed line; the oil return line goes back to the oil pan where the stock return line was. Before the oil feed line went to the head but the turbo was getting starved of oil so rnr changed the design.

 

I'm guessing you don't have a full stand alone engine management system? That problem with the cams must be holding back ALOT of power right now too... I made about 341 awhp on the CFT dyno 'stock turbo' with most of the same mods that you have now (cams, intercooler, tbe, licp, aemems fuelinjectors)

 

Nope still have the factory ecu that is until tax return time and ya they told me I would gain more than a hundred horsepower with the cams fixed. I am also going to go from 264in 264ex to 272in 272ex.

 

I doubt your cams are set-up wrong. I'm pretty sure the engine would not run if they were installed 90deg off. If it did, it would run very very bad.
When I change my cam timing on the gears by just 3-4 deg it makes the engine run very bad. If it was off by 90 you would be hitting your valves on the piston tops.
Also, if they are off. You don't have to remove the cams, just the cam gears. Also the only way they can be wrong is with aftermarket adustable gears. The stock cam gears only go one way.
Why would you adjust an AFC if you get flashed? The flash should be your tune. It's much more acurate than an AFC.
Maybe you should bet a second opinion.
Good luck