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Bleeding ACD

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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 01:37 PM
  #91  
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From: Alaska
Originally Posted by funks
Is a rubber line? won't it mar the line and mess it up?
There's a few spots where the line is doubled up with an extra layer of rubber around the hose. I did it there. It didn't seem to screw it up.

Actually the proper tool for doing this is a set of pinch off pliers. They sell them at sears. They're vise grips with jaws that are made for pinching off lines.
This looks like it would work good.

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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 01:40 PM
  #92  
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you got it..
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 09:17 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Boost3dxEvO
That is one option if you are newly taking off the tcase banjo bolt.. but my car sat for over a year with the line exposed, so i not only lost all of the fluid, I have a TON of air in the system
I know its kind of a dumb question but did you fill the fluid completely before trying? I mean like fill it then wait for a few minutes and fill some more cause the fluid is very thick and it takes a while to flow all the way down into the lines.

What I did was tighten up banjo and bleeder bolt, top the fluid off fully and then followed the procedures. Its really hard to hear the pump from inside the car I could barely hear it with both doors open inside a quiet garage. I heard it really well with someone in the car and me sitting right next to it. The pump runs for a few seconds if there is alot of air in the lines and runs less and less as all the air is bleed out. By the time I was done the pump would only run for half a second.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 06:35 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by krazykorean84
I know its kind of a dumb question but did you fill the fluid completely before trying? I mean like fill it then wait for a few minutes and fill some more cause the fluid is very thick and it takes a while to flow all the way down into the lines.

What I did was tighten up banjo and bleeder bolt, top the fluid off fully and then followed the procedures. Its really hard to hear the pump from inside the car I could barely hear it with both doors open inside a quiet garage. I heard it really well with someone in the car and me sitting right next to it. The pump runs for a few seconds if there is alot of air in the lines and runs less and less as all the air is bleed out. By the time I was done the pump would only run for half a second.
Yeah, i filled the fluid to past the "MAX" point. When I bled the ACD, a good amount of fluid came out so now the reservoir is sitting like right at the "Max" point.. but it didn't change too drastically.. It seems like the reservoir should have went down more than that.. and when I bleed it, i can't really hear the pump.. but you are right, I'm also inside the car, not like right there by it.. Where will it be noticeable to hear the pump? It is right underneath the drivers side front bumper (right underneath the reservoir, correct?) Also, just to clarify, where exactly are you bleeding it from? Like what does the bleed hole look like and does it sit right underneath the T-case? It just seems like I should still be getting bubbles in the line, but I haven't been getting any.. but all 3 lights still remain on.. Also, does only 1 light come on with the ignition turned on? or do all three of them come on and then only 1 comes on whenever the car is started? Regardless, I still have all 3 lit up when the car is running and with the ignition on.. I really do not want to take it to the dealer, but as the last resort.. I will go there and have them use the MUT tool..
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 07:22 PM
  #95  
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by Boost3dxEvO
Yeah, i filled the fluid to past the "MAX" point. When I bled the ACD, a good amount of fluid came out so now the reservoir is sitting like right at the "Max" point.. but it didn't change too drastically.. It seems like the reservoir should have went down more than that.. and when I bleed it, i can't really hear the pump.. but you are right, I'm also inside the car, not like right there by it.. Where will it be noticeable to hear the pump? It is right underneath the drivers side front bumper (right underneath the reservoir, correct?) Also, just to clarify, where exactly are you bleeding it from? Like what does the bleed hole look like and does it sit right underneath the T-case? It just seems like I should still be getting bubbles in the line, but I haven't been getting any.. but all 3 lights still remain on.. Also, does only 1 light come on with the ignition turned on? or do all three of them come on and then only 1 comes on whenever the car is started? Regardless, I still have all 3 lit up when the car is running and with the ignition on.. I really do not want to take it to the dealer, but as the last resort.. I will go there and have them use the MUT tool..
That's good that you filled the fluid past max. When the fluid level goes down in the resevior it can be deceiving, the fluid still drains down the line but there is still fluid in the resevior. Just keep the fluid filled to max as you bleed the ACD.

You'll hear the pump while under the car. I don't remember exactly where and I'm not with my car right now but you're probably right. You should hear it up by the front bumper.

The bleeder valve is directly on the bottom of the T-case and it looks almost exactly like any other bleeder valve (i.e., slave cylinder/brakes)

When you turn the ignition power on there will be three lights but when the car is running there should only be one light lit.

When I bleed my ACD the second time after replacing my clutch I installed a "speed" bleeder valve which has a one way check valve so it won't let air in after the pump stops driving. I'm not sure if this is really necessary but I installed it because I had just installed one on the slave cylinder to make bleeding the clutch easier. You could try leaving the ACD bleeder closed (tightened), run the pump then open the bleeder to let air out, then close bleeder again and repeat. Sort of how you would bleed the brakes or clutch. I think that's actually how I did it the first time when I reinstalled my tranny after rebuild.

Remember, you have to repeat this process many many times to ensure all the air is out.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 07:36 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by krazykorean84
That's good that you filled the fluid past max. When the fluid level goes down in the resevior it can be deceiving, the fluid still drains down the line but there is still fluid in the resevior. Just keep the fluid filled to max as you bleed the ACD.

You'll hear the pump while under the car. I don't remember exactly where and I'm not with my car right now but you're probably right. You should hear it up by the front bumper.

The bleeder valve is directly on the bottom of the T-case and it looks almost exactly like any other bleeder valve (i.e., slave cylinder/brakes)

When you turn the ignition power on there will be three lights but when the car is running there should only be one light lit.

When I bleed my ACD the second time after replacing my clutch I installed a "speed" bleeder valve which has a one way check valve so it won't let air in after the pump stops driving. I'm not sure if this is really necessary but I installed it because I had just installed one on the slave cylinder to make bleeding the clutch easier. You could try leaving the ACD bleeder closed (tightened), run the pump then open the bleeder to let air out, then close bleeder again and repeat. Sort of how you would bleed the brakes or clutch. I think that's actually how I did it the first time when I reinstalled my tranny after rebuild.

Remember, you have to repeat this process many many times to ensure all the air is out.
Thanks so much for the help man.. I am going to try to bleed it like the clutch/brakes this weekend.. I'm using the right bleeder, just wanted to make sure. thanks again man, your the best!
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 07:46 PM
  #97  
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If by chance these procedures don't work out and the ACD lights are all still on, I'm thinking maybe there is a trouble code that needs to be cleared from the ACD ecu? Maybe driving around a bit will clear it or disconnecting battery? Worst case scenario something may be wrong with the ACD pump itself and then a trip to the dealer is the best bet. This is all just in case your next attempt doesn't work out. I hope everything does though. Good luck!
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 07:49 PM
  #98  
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If there is air in your system, does all the 3 lights usually turn on pretty soon, how many miles does it usually take for the lights to turn on?
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 07:00 PM
  #99  
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Tonight, I tried bleeding it again.. I still can't hear the pump kick on at all.. I even had my head completely next to it.. This is just really weird that the pump isn't kicking on.. my car sat for over a year with the tcase off and the acd line venting to atmosphere.. but prior to that, the ACD never had a problem and i also had only one light lit up.. but this worries me that the pump is NOT coming on.. is there any way to test it? where exactly is the ACD ecu/computer? I heard it was like in the passenger side kick panel? I unplugged some plugs there and plugged them back in with no luck.. the same with the actual ACD unit at the front of the car (drivers side front).. I unplugged all of those plugs and plugged them back in.. any ideas? could i suck the fluid out through the reservoir? That seems like my only option? and then just add fluid back?
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 09:20 PM
  #100  
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You turn the key to the on position without the car on and floor the gas. The ACD pump cycles for a few seconds with the gas floored. Turn key off, back on again and repeat process.
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 09:24 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
You turn the key to the on position without the car on and floor the gas. The ACD pump cycles for a few seconds with the gas floored. Turn key off, back on again and repeat process.
This is the process I use to the "t." I cannot hear my pump turn on at all..
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 09:54 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Boost3dxEvO
This is the process I use to the "t." I cannot hear my pump turn on at all..
Then check the fusible link at the battery. Make sure it is connected to power.
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
Then check the fusible link at the battery. Make sure it is connected to power.
How would i make sure its connected to power? I have the 2 10mm bolts, bolted down on the fuse and then 1 big bolt to connect to my mini battery.
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 10:48 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
Then check the fusible link at the battery. Make sure it is connected to power.
We did a lot of mods at the same time.. I used to have my battery in the trunk so some of the stock connections are not currently there anymore on my mini battery.. I do have the fusible link.. It is the big black box with a 60 amp fuse and a 100 amp fuse (alternator), correct? Anyways, that black box fusible link is kind of "rigged" up .. so it is a good possibility that the fuse is not getting good enough power.. I can take a picture if need be.. Its basically an odssey mini battery .. the negative terminal is the stock metal type clamp, but the positive uses a big bolt through the terminal threaded through the mini battery hole. Please help me out.. The ACD pump is for sure not coming on.. I have done everything from unplugging the unit to unplugging the acd ecu in the passenger kick panel.. It was working perfectly a year ago before my car sat and before this big motor build.. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:26 AM
  #105  
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