I am at the end of an clutch replacement on my 9MR. Now I am at the fluids stage, and had the ACD line off for over a week. Lots of fluid out even though I rubber glove zip tied the line.

By removing the line and man handling the TCase during the work I suspect a good amount of air is now in the Tcase where the ATF fluid should be, not to mention when replacing the line.

Any more details on folks who successfully bled their systems, and how they determined it was successful would be great. I have a 'jump start battery' that I could direct connect to the motor, but need more details from someone that did that to run the motor.

Is running the pump for 5 seconds enough under normal conditions? How much fluid should I pump out?

Thanks
M

 

I have a quick question.... I have valet mode set up on my cars tune and to switch to it I have to turn the ignition to the on position and hold the gas pedal for 5 to 10 seconds, when I do that it makes the noise like its trying to bleed the acd. Is this causing any harm or what?


Any info is appreciated


Thanks

 

This method has worked fine for me the three times i have done it on my 05...no acd lights and no traction or mechanical issues.

 

This is obviously going to happen because the fluid is out in the system doing its job when the car is running and then returns to the sump/reservoir when the car isnt running.

 

I tried the method in the OP, and it worked as expected. It only ran for 2 seconds or so, but it bled forcefully during that time. I took the key out and waited about 20 seconds and was able to repeat that method many times. I did it just to see if I could get any bubbles, but I didn't.

I had lots of extra fluid so I kept doing it. It worked for me, unless there is something going on beyond just running the pump.

Thanks to the OP for the info.

M

 

I just replaced my TC past weekend, and bleed my ACD last night. I actually took the ACD line off of the TC while installation, so I had a lot of air in my line.

From the OP instruction, the pump would kick on ~15-20 seconds
Did that about 6 times or so with little luck (but remember I have alot of air in this line).

So I turned to a manual brake bleeder (consists of a hand pump, catch can, and two hoses), the bleeder didn't hold good enough vacuum, so I bled it by mouth and allowed the catch can to catch the fluid. This was easier and worked BEST for me atleast (I suck).

Than back to the OP instructions, the pump kicked on ~3 seconds as the lines already came up to pressure. Slightly bled 2 times and could see the bleed hose solid with fluid no air.

All lights were off once again.
Good instructions.

It seemed to be that a good sign of no more air in the lines is that the pump did not run very long at all, compared to when I had a lot of air.

 

hmmm, doesn't EVOSCAN allow you to perform an ACD bleed? Although I think it only works with the limitless cable.

 

Since this thread is already back from the dead.. How many of you have successfully used this method to bleed your ACD?? I tried it and never heard my pump kick on.. Thanks

 

any one?

 

I've used it twice already. Once when I replaced my clutch and then again when I had my tranny rebuilt. I followed the instructions exactly over and over again until there was straight fluid flowing out. I probably used about a half of a quart just to be sure. It worked out pretty well for me.

 

i heard you dont have to do this...and you can just clamp the line with vice grips...

 

Thanks man.. I'm just wondering why I can't even hear my ACD motor turn on and run?

 

That is one option if you are newly taking off the tcase banjo bolt.. but my car sat for over a year with the line exposed, so i not only lost all of the fluid, I have a TON of air in the system

 

Is a rubber line? won't it mar the line and mess it up?

 

Didn't work on my IX MR. Pump would only run for a second, then shut off. Not enough to bleed it.