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Do I need to run an O2 sensor?

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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 03:12 PM
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Do I need to run an O2 sensor?

Ok, here's my deal. I have an 06 IX with 900miles on it. I pulled off the stock exhaust to intall the Buschur TBE. In anticipation of a struggle, I soaked all the bolts with PB Blaster before I began the job. This included the rear O2 sensor.

Everything came off just fine, except the O2 sensor. I used an O2 sensor socket with a long-handled 3/8" ratchet. The thing WOULD NOT budge. I used a breaker bar, and still no action. I can't get that O2 sensor out to save my life. After all the pulling and ripping on that sensor, the edges of the O2 sensor started to round off, so I stopped.

I soaked it twice last night with PB Blaster, and still no movement today. I'm gonna unplug the sensor and take the exhaust section to a muffler shop tomorrow to see if they can get it out with an impact wrench.

Worst case scenario: the sensor won't come out. I don't want to spend $200 on a new one so is it possible for me to just plug the O2 bung on the Buschur exhaust and leave the O2 sensor out prior to my tune with Al on 3/1/06? I've never heard of anyone doing this, so it may not be possible. I know the car will run rich without the O2 sensor, but is that something that Al can tune around, or does he need the readings from the O2 sensor to do the tune?

I posted in this forum because my real question is do I need to run an O2 sensor if I'm getting tuned? I REALLY don't want to drop $200 if it's not needed.

Thanks.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 03:57 PM
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the car wont run rich, your SES light will come on though. all the rear o2 sensor does is make sure the cat is working.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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Is there no way to run without the rear o2 sensor?

Last edited by sonicnofadz; Feb 21, 2006 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 04:17 PM
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I just came back in after having another go at the sensor. There's no way this thing is coming out. Now that I look at it in the daylight, I swear it's in there crooked. I'll be damned if it doesn't look cross-threaded. Now I'm REALLY gonna have a problem with paying for a new one if the factory hemmed it up from the start.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 04:27 PM
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Maybe try using a blow torch?

Last edited by sonicnofadz; Feb 21, 2006 at 05:03 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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You can use o2 sensor eleminator from greddy its around $50 for people who run no cat. This will solve your problem.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mikiblueeyes
You can use o2 sensor eleminator from greddy its around $50 for people who run no cat. This will solve your problem.
So the O2 sensor eliminator does just that? It allows you to unplug the O2 sensor completely? Does the O2 sensor need to be in place when tuning the car for any reason? If not, that sounds like the way to go.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 06:18 PM
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you can run it and it won't affect the tune, but you will have a CEL unless you install an electronic 02 simulator. several companies make them for around $50, one of these will solve your problem.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 06:23 PM
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If you install an O2 simulator you won't need the O2 sensor, you can use just a plug where the O2 bung is.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=185550
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 06:41 PM
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AFAIK all of them need the sensor to remain plugged in as the sensor needs to be heated or it will throw a code.

Yes, even with a simulator.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 06:50 PM
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I had the same problem with my o2 sensor. Finally we were able to pull it out but it looked like it had been cross threaded. I am going to see if I can get the stupid thing re-threaded tomorrow.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 07:06 PM
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Check Greddy and you will see.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
AFAIK all of them need the sensor to remain plugged in as the sensor needs to be heated or it will throw a code.

Yes, even with a simulator.
I have a simulator and thats what mine did when I disconnected the sensor. Threw a o2 heater code.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
AFAIK all of them need the sensor to remain plugged in as the sensor needs to be heated or it will throw a code.

Yes, even with a simulator.
Ummm why is this? The o2 sensor is just outputting an analog voltage that is being fed into the ecu. The ecu then converts the analog signal into a digital one and if it is out of range (too lean too rich) it will throw a code. I don't think it matters if any "heat" is involved at all. A simple voltage divider circuit (using two resistors of a specific resistance) could be used to fool the ecu by dividing the 12 volt battery signal into a lets say .45 volts. Am i wrong in any of my assumptions?
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by scott88vr6
I have a simulator and thats what mine did when I disconnected the sensor. Threw a o2 heater code.
I'm going to call Greddy tomorrow and see. I'll post up if they can clarify this for me. Now that I read this other thread, https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=185550 I remember people running simulators with nothing but a plug in the O2 bung.
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