You're assumptions are wrong but the analysis is pretty good! The O2 sensor needs to be kept in a temperature range to work correctly, so it has a built-in heater. The ECU knows this and knows roughly what resistance the heater circuit presents at operating temperature. If the ECU doesn't see that resistance it assumes the sensor is bad.

So you take care of the heater circuit but you still can't just fake a 0.45v output. The ECU expects the sensor's signal to somewhat follow the front sensor's and to go rich in open loop. So again, if the ECU doesn't get the readings it expects it assumes a failure. A low-pass filter, or integrator, on the front sensor signal will do the job electronically. The spark plug anti-fouler (works great if it fits) does basically the same thing mechanically on the rear sensor when there's a high-flow (or no) cat.

Finally, to get the old sensor out, disconnect it, put an old box-end wrench on it and smack it with a hammer.

Dave

 

Good answer Dave.

 

So I talked with Buschur and Victor Research by phone today. They all said I need an actual O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe, even with an O2 sensor eliminator in place.

 

Yes it needs to stay in place, no it is not feeding the O2v signal to ECU.

I don't understand why you need to bother 4 different companies when you already had your answer.

 

Wow thanks for the detailed reply! I did not know the rear o2 signal was suppose to follow the signal from the first o2 sensor, this makes perfect sense now. So it is possible to run without the o2 sensor, you just have to design the appropiate integrator circuit to follow the 1st o2 sensor's signal (to simulate a catalyzed exhaust stream). AWESOME!

 

in situations like this, if you must get the sensor out, heat up the surrounding metal with a torch. Just make sure you don't heat the 02 sensor up.