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Well, I F'd my car!!!

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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 09:53 PM
  #46  
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Um, I think the shop that I took it to is smart enough to look at the pistons and decide whether they are fine. It would make them more money, but they said they're fine. The valves barely touched the piston, they are not what caused the belt to slip. I saw the pistons with my own eyes, and I topuched them. There is a tiny shiny spot where they touched but you cannot feel a thing. Keep in mind, the valves were practically fine. The shop told me if I put the timing back on and drove the car, I probably wouldn't have noticed a thing. These guys build race car engine, I'm sure they can figue out how to put together a daily driven 4G63.

Originally Posted by sonicnofadz
Ummmm no. You are forgetting one VERY IMPORTANT THING. The pistons. You are either going to have to replace them or sand them down. The dents the valves left in them are going to cause detonation. Trust me, from bending valves on 3 different occasions (two at the track) you don't often want to even re-use the pistons. One of the motors I used had to have a new crank shaft put in after the valve contact because it destroyed my bearings. Don't bolt everything back together half assed, you WILL regret it.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 09:57 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by dsevo
Um, I think the shop that I took it to is smart enough to look at the pistons and decide whether they are fine. It would make them more money, but they said they're fine. The valves barely touched the piston, they are not what caused the belt to slip. I saw the pistons with my own eyes, and I topuched them. There is a tiny shiny spot where they touched but you cannot feel a thing. Keep in mind, the valves were practically fine. The shop told me if I put the timing back on and drove the car, I probably wouldn't have noticed a thing. These guys build race car engine, I'm sure they can figue out how to put together a daily driven 4G63.
That's true, just because two parts touched doesn't mean they deformed enough to cause damage. And yes, steel is harder than aluminum, however it was a steel flange against a solid aluminum surface. For this situation, I don't think the aluminum would dent as easily as the steel would bend a bit. It wasn't being driven hard, so there weren't any high revs involved. High revs plus interference will definitely cause severe damage.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 10:00 PM
  #48  
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I asked the shop multiple times and they said it's not even close to being an issue. I trust them, they seem pretty good, and they have some baddass motors that they're building (1000 HP Viper).
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 10:46 PM
  #49  
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Get them to use a finish of about 400 grit on the piston tops... if it is in your budget.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 10:54 PM
  #50  
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Yeah if there wasn't any huge dents in the pistons then you may have lucked out. I'm use to seeing huge gouges in pistons from the DSM 4g63s, but they all happened at high rpms. There is still a small chance your bottom end was damaged but only time will tell. I would definitely still sand the pistons down. Any small scratch on the surface will cause pre-detonation, and will make tuning a nightmare (excess knock levels). Good luck, these situations always suck.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 05:50 PM
  #51  
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Question... If I were to take off the head would this mean Id completely have to take the timing belt off?
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 06:02 PM
  #52  
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so how much is the repairs going to cost you again?
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 07:47 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 910clubs
so how much is the repairs going to cost you again?

It ended up costing me just under $3,100. Now I am just working out the bugs, and getting it ready to be tuned. what a pain in the a$$ this has been.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 12:32 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by FastEvoFL
Question... If I were to take off the head would this mean Id completely have to take the timing belt off?
Yes. The timing belt controls the timing of the valves in the head with the pistons in the block and needs to be taken off to remove the head.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 08:27 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by sonicnofadz
Yes. The timing belt controls the timing of the valves in the head with the pistons in the block and needs to be taken off to remove the head.

I think he means, would he have to completely remove the belt, or just take it off the timing gears and then remove the head, leaving the belt on the crank.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:06 AM
  #56  
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Yeah I guess if wanted to leave the belt dangling on the crank sprocket you could...not sure why this makes a difference? Once you loosen the tension of the belt it basically just falls off.
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