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Transmission oil leaks at driver side axle

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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 07:32 AM
  #46  
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fre
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When I install my shafts they are hooked into the hub and I use the hub as a hammer to push them in. Obviously ensre the cup doesn't have any bends in it. As far as distance, there was probably a 1/4 inch gap when it was leaking and now it is almost touching.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 02:38 AM
  #47  
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guy's u ned to make sure the axel goes right in

hope this help's
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 03:36 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by stackhouse
^^^Did you ever get around to trying this? I too, have this problem with the driver side axle. I just replaced the seal for the second time, and it started leaking the first time I drove the car for more than two miles, must like the last one. I did check the axle cup, and it looked OK, and I cleaned and greased the cup and the seal before I installed it.
I did notice that the driver axle was not seated as close to the tx casing as the passnger one is to the tc. The driver side has apprx 2-5 mm gap, while the passngr is nearly flush. I tried pushing it in more, but it seemed fully seated where it was. Im pretty sure it clicked, and it wouldnt slide back out.
I will try again with the axles leveled like the guy previously mentioned. I dont really wanna put the BFH on it, but I might have to.
I guess next step would be replaceing the axle?

BTW, as far as I know, i have stock axles/tx/tc

I have done atleast 8 hours of general maintenance to my car so far this winter, but have been waiting to reinstall another axle seal on the drivers side until it gets warm here in PA.

i have done a good bit of research, talked to a mitsu tech, and emailed shep. here is what i intend to do:

once i drain the transmission and remove the old axle seal, im going to grease up the fresh seal, find a socket that matches the circumference of the metal ring on the outside of the axle seal. Place the seal around the stub shaft and get it centered, then place the socket on the seal and lightly tap it in so it presses in level. (hope that makes sense)

The trick however is not to tap the seal in too far so that it is completely flush with the bell housing. I know it sounds unorthodox, but if i let the seal sit a couple mm out of the bell housing it will help close the gap between the axle and the seal. It will not see enough pressure so that it is in danger of being pushed out of the bell housing completely, but if i cannot snug the axle up to the axle seal, then i intend to move the axle seal out to meet the axle.

ps. as was stated earlier in this thread, MAKE SURE that the axle cup is perfectly round or you are going to be leaking again.

when the weather gets warm and i get a nice saturday off work and school, ill get this done and update you fellas
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 10:42 AM
  #49  
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I have a leaking LH seal on a 6 spd. Oh man, I sure hope it isn't going to be a constant failure like some here.


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...yone-else.html
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #50  
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i think its going to be constant failure if u repeatedly install axle seals the same way time and time again.

ive read on another thread which is a couple years old, that a member left the seal sit out a little bit and it fixed the leak

im hopeful that this works. otherwise, ill learn to live with it or swap out axels and try that
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 10:57 AM
  #51  
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Good luck with that. I talked to the master tech at the local mitsubishi dealership. He wasnt concerned about the depth of the seal, he said that it should be flush, but its not that critical. He suggested that maybe the stub shaft wasnt fully seated into the front differential. Intrestingly enough I had thought about that possibility already, but havent tested the theory yet. The other possibility he mentioned was that the stub shaft was put in backward. Again, I didnt recall whether or not i saw the hole when the axle was out the last time. Honestly i should be moving on to other things, but this just keeps buggin me. Im giving it one last go, then i'll be dropping it off somewhere for someone else to deal with. its not that big a deal, but ANY leak is ANNOYING!
SO when i get the motivation, i plan to do the following:
take the axle back out and verify stub shaft installed correctly
measure length of stub shaft sticking out of the trans.
then remove stub shaft and inspect
reinstall stubshaft, measure length sticking out of the trans. if length is shorter, then problem solved
do a mockup of the seal on axle outside of the car, just to get an idea of where it needs to seat in the car...seems like a useful thing to do
install a new seal, just for $hi+s and leave it about a mm or two from being flush mounted
thinkin abut goin over the axle with an emery cloth where it seats onto the seal, cant hurt..
put it all back together and check for leaks
If it leaks still, i might spring for a new axle, but we'll see.
ill post my results when i get around to it
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #52  
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that sounds pretty comprehensive dude.

im right there with you. this is a stupid thing to obsess over, but i keep my car super clean and in perfect running condition so any leak drives me nuts.

make sure you update your results for us. id appreciate it
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Old May 6, 2010 | 07:04 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by holiday63
that sounds pretty comprehensive dude.

im right there with you. this is a stupid thing to obsess over, but i keep my car super clean and in perfect running condition so any leak drives me nuts.

make sure you update your results for us. id appreciate it
Finally got around to installing the new seal. Good news is its been a week and 100+ miles and no leak (last two seals leaked on second day ~20mi). Bad news is now that the axle leak isnt coating everything, I found that there is a slight leak where the clutch housing bolts to the gearbox along the very bottom of the case (*sigh).

So heres how it all went down:
If you'll notice, the seal has a ridge around it about 2mm in from the outside. I used that as a guide when driving in the seal, to let it stick out just a little bit, instead of driving it in flush. I then took some 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper and went over the end of the axle a little bit to clean it up. It was dirrrty. Got it all cleaned up and then put it back in. So far, its all good.

I hope this helps some of you guys with the axle leak.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 07:09 PM
  #54  
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AND....im not a photographer with professional equipment, but how about some visuals?

The new seal (MN132370)
Name:  NewSeal.jpg
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Size:  40.1 KB

Old Leaky Seal
Name:  OldSeal_Installed.jpg
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Size:  39.2 KB

And...the new seal
Name:  NewSeal_Installed.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  38.7 KB
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 10:10 AM
  #55  
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Jon at TRE recommends using some gasket sealer inside the seal to allow the seal to be out slightly but this will prevent any leaks.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 10:29 AM
  #56  
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I have this same annoying issue with the T-case side. Ive changed it 3 times and even with a brand new T-case with seals I didn't install it still leaks. Assuming its of the same reason as why the driver side would. Gonna try what "stackhouse" and "mitsujoe" said and see if I have any results. If not im having the dealer take care of this because im tired of it spraying fluid everywhere!
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 07:52 PM
  #57  
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Sorry for digging up an old thread. Anymore good news on the leak as i've just entered the club. Changed passenger drive shaft oil seal 3 times taking into consideration all the suggestions here and it's still annoyingly leaking. I'm going mental with this seepage obsession. What's the part number for evo7 anyway. Is it MD755526 or MR581295 or MD758763 or MN132370? I'm from Malaysia by the way. Thanks in advance.
SORTED.

Last edited by lalu; Jun 2, 2011 at 07:10 PM. Reason: problem SORTED
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 08:14 AM
  #58  
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my driver side front seal leaks constant change the seal, the shaft the axle and nothing works can anyone help me
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 09:11 AM
  #59  
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Do you have excessive play in your LSD that is allowing the shaft to not fully seat in the LSD? Something is causing the axle to not seal well with the seal.
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #60  
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how can i tell if i do have an excessive play? t-casenot whinning so im not sure but my believe is that the car was tow from the front and the rear wheels moving force the fronts to move by forcing the front diff to move hard and it might be damage
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