thanks for bringing up this question, Az3ar, I have wondered about this also... I kind of figured that mitsu possilby ran the engine on a stand or something before it was installed in the car, but i hadn't thought about an addative being used. I hope someone has some facts concerning this issue because I find it pretty interesting!

 

The manual says straight up not to use conventional oil, because it will damage the turbo - and void your warranty.

also i was under the impression that the corrosive properties of synthetic oil, only effect older cars with petroleum based/rubber lines.

 

Guys, heres the deal. Just follow Mitsu's recommendations. Stop second guessing them. They have been working around variations of the 4g63 since the mid 80's and I'm inclined to take the word of the people who designed and built the vehicle.

Today's high performance engines are designed to run well with minimum break in procedure. In most cases, its a design requirement. Today's focus on quality has allowed manufactueres to dail in tolerances and clearances to the point where a rigorous break in procedure is not necessary. A build up of a race motor is completely different than a production motor even if the parts are the same. Your going to have different tolerances and clearances that might require a more extensive break-in.

Guys, seriously. The vast majority of evos are running with 100% healthy motors thanks to the break in procedure recommended by mitsu.

 

I trust Mitsu recommendation.

BTW, What are the pros/cons of adding engine cleaner additive in the engine oil whenever changing the engine oil?

 

Yea, thanks for bringing it up....like this haven't been beaten to death yet. What else is there to chime in on? You will get the same result just as other threads regarding this topic. Some will say go conventional and others will say stay with the synthetic!!!! Now, I guess you think this thread will be different huh? Oh, it's "Break" not "Brake"!!!!

 

like to hear more about that first 5k though. I changed mine at 500, 1500, 4500, then every 5k every time after.

 

since we run on synthetic oil, do we still have to get oil changes every 3k miles?

 

just a note,

my car has had synthetic oil in it from day one....and it doesn't burn a LICK of oil..not even after being run 170miles from 5-7k on the road course.

 

Thanks for all the great information about this. I just bought an IX and when I talked to the dealer they said that the car comes from Mitsubishi with regular oil in it for the break-in period. Then it is suggested that I put Synthetic in it. Mobil 1 to be exact. I was also told that I cannot run any other synthetic oil besides Mobil 1. I smell lies?

 

you can run any synthetic that you want.

 

This is what I figured. Why am I surprised about the lies from Mitsubishi?

 

This thread purpose is to know why does Mitsu, Dodge and Porsche opinion is different than other car manufacture like Toyota. I am curios to know if they use an additive or they break in the engine on a stand.

There must be a reason behind this and I am looking for the people who might know the story in and out.


oh that wont be you for sure

 

Engines do not get broken in by the manufacturer in the way that you are describing. Theres no time. For a high production car your talking a cycle time between 30 seconds and a minute. Then its ship it out the door....on to the next. Also, engines do not start until the car is completely assembled in most cases.

 

I also wonder if Mitsubishi added a shot of Moly to the Break-in oil. Subaru and Honda do. The only way to tell is to send the oil off to Blackstone Labs!

If you want to learn more about oil go to this website: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

do not do this it will upset the chemistry of the oil. You will end up with a inferior oil. The oil companys spend millions perfecting the additive packages. The EPA also limits the use of some additives. I always look for a ACEA A3 rated oil and the only one stateside in our Viscosity range in the 0W-30 German built Castrol Syntec. There is a German Castrol specific forum here on this site http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Mobil 1 10W-30 is not approved for use in Porsche/BMW in this weight. It does not stay in grade during the longer BMW drain intervals. Mobil 1 is fine if you cahnge it often, I just like having the added security of a ACEA A3 oil.