^ Exactly. Mass produced cars like our Evos dont get a "break- in" at the factory. To anyone that says that using regular oil is murder, you're simply nuts. As most of us already know that turbo cars have been out there for a long long time and just until recently did Mitsu stated to strictly use Mobil-1. No, your engine will not blow up or seize if you use conventional oil. The main reason why Mitsu calls for Mobil 1 is due to the fact that it does protect better in colder weather, doesnt break down with intense heat, and longer change intervals. Well if you are driving your Evo through its break in period you would not be abusing the car therefore not needing that extra high temp protection. You also would be scheduling to change the oil after about 3000 miles. And lastly you would let the engine reach operating temp before beating on it, although if still on the break-in period you would'nt be beating on it. All this is what you should be doing, but of course Mitsu doesnt think that anyone would be this carefull so they call for strict Mobil 1 from the start.

I have broken in both of my Evos with conventional oil for the first 3000 miles. Changing the oil after about 1500 miles. This is because conventional oil does break down faster. I dont burn any considerable oil and have no issues whatsoever. Either way it really wont make too mush of a difference, but please dont go crazy by paying any mind to those that say you did wrong either way. Also, every gas engine ever made burns oil, just not enough to be visible on the dipstick.

 

Index Taken from a paper on bobistheoilguy website

Motor Oil 102

Chapter two. It gets more difficult.

We left off discussing that a 0W-30 weight oil is not thinner than a 10W-30 oil. They both have the same thickness at operating temperature. The 0W-30 simply does not get as thick on cooling as the 10W-30. Both are still way to thick to lubricate an engine at startup.

I have heard several people say that Porsche specifically prohibits a 0W-XX engine oil, that it is too thin. Now here is the partial truth I spoke of earlier. We will discuss multigrade oils. Earlier we said that a straight 30 weight oil has a thickness of 10 at the normal operating temperature of your engine. The multigrade oils 0W-30 and 10W-30 also have a thickness of 10 at 212 F.

The difference is at 75 F, your startup temperature in the morning.


Oil type... Thickness at 75 F...Thickness at 212 F

Straight 30...... 250......................10
10W-30............100......................10
0W-30..............40 ......................10

Straight 10........30....................... 6

Now you can see that the difference between the desired thickness your engine requires ( = 10 ) is closest to the 0W-30 oil at startup. It is still too thick for normal operation. But it does not have far to go before it warms up and thins to the correct viscosity. Remember that most engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is too thick to lubricate properly. It cannot flow and therefore cannot lubricate. Most of the thick oil at startup actually goes through the bypass valve back to the engine oil sump and not into your engine oil ways. This is especially true when you really step on that gas pedal. You really need more lubrication and you actually get less.

Note that a straight 10 weight oil is also too thick for your engine at startup. It has a thickness of 30. Yet at operating temperatures it is too thin having a thickness of 6. It needs to be around 10. The oil companies have added viscosity index improvers or VI to oils to solve this dilemma. They take a mineral based oil and add VI improvers so that it does not thin as as much when it gets hotter. Now instead of only having a thickness of 6 when hot it has a thickness of 10, just as we need.

The penalty is the startup thickness also goes up to 100. This is better than being up at 250 as a straight 30 weight oil though. Oil with a startup thickness of 100 that becomes the appropriate thickness of 10 when fully warmed up is called a 10W-30 weight motor oil. This is NOT as thick as a straight 30 weight oil at startup and it is NOT as thin as a straight 10 weight oil at full operating temperature.

The downside of a mineral based multigrade oil is that this VI additive wears out over time and you end up with the original straight 10 weight oil. It will go back to being too thin when hot. It will have a thickness of 6 instead of 10. This may be why Porsche (according to some people) does not want a 0W-30 but rather a 10W-30. If the VI wears out the 0W-30 will ultimately be thinner, a straight 0 weight oil. When the VI is used up in the 10W-30 oil it too is thinner. It goes back to a straight 10 weight oil. They are both still too thick at startup, both of them. The straight 0 weight oil, a 5 weight oil and a 10 weight oil are all too thick at startup.

This is just theory however. With normal oil change intervals the VI improver will not wear out and so the problem does not really exist. In fact, oils do thin a little with use. This is partly from dilution with blow by gasoline and partly from VI improvers being used up. What is more interesting is that with further use motor oils actually thicken and this is much worse than the minimal thinning that may have occurred earlier.

Synthetic oils are a whole different story. There is no VI improver added so there is nothing to wear out. The actual oil molecules never wear out. You could almost use the same oil forever. The problem is that there are other additives and they do get used up. I suppose if there was a good way to keep oil clean you could just add a can of additives every 6 months and just change the filter, never changing the oil.

When the additives wear out in a synthetic oil it still has the same viscosity. It will not thin as a mineral oil. The fear that some say Porsche has that oils thin when the VI runs out is not applicable to these synthetic oils. These oils will always have the correct thickness when hot and will still be too thick at startup as with all oils of all types, regardless of the API / SAE viscosity rating.

Automotive engine manufacturers know these principals of motor oils. They know there is thinning or thickening that will occur. They take these things into account when they write that owners manual. Mineral oil change recommendations will generally include shorter time intervals than those of synthetic oils.

The reality is that motor oils do not need to be changed because they thin with use. It is the eventual thickening that limits the time you may keep oil in your engine. The limit is both time itself (with no motor use) and/or mileage use.

End of part two.

Index

 

What is mass produced means to you? Is it 10K cars global wise or 50K?

For example I believe we still get less 5K EVOs every year to the US and I believe not more than 15K get produced yearly if that (not 100% sure but I am sure I am very close)

Toyota Camry and Honda Civic yes they are mass produced to over 50K unit per year if not much much more.

As I said above I am not sure if they run them on a stand or not but I know for fact that old vetts and vipers used too.

Synthetic oil is not recommended for break in period because it’s too slippery and even Redline oils says that on its products.

How can we explain Mitsu, Dodge, chevy and on top all that Porsche act on the synthetic oil then?

By the way Synthetic oil been out over 50 years and its been used on many cars before the EVO just like turbos.

The thread is to explain why does Mitsu take a different route that’s all?

 

i drained my oil day i got my IX and put in mineral oil for 500 miles, then ran castrol for 500 miles, then put back in syn at 1000. Car runs great "puts down around same power as most IX's" but it cant hurt

270/268

 

hmmmm good post but then lets all use 0W30 and live happy ever after.

since the oil under extreme heat gets to the same thickness no matter what then why are we using 10W30 and have to warm the engine up...

Does not make sense.

 

all manufacturers use additive in their new cars to help break the car in.

But if you really think about it, the engine goes through quality testing and it's already ran with their formulars to seal everything and make sure that things run ok before they're at your showroom.

Just because the odometer says 0, that doesn't mean the engine hasn't been ran.

You need to just stick with what manufacturers gives you, there is no point trying to be different, it's not going to help, just further complicate things.

It's hoax. No car ever blew up because it was using what the car came with, unless you've done some dramatic things to your car.

On a turbo car, you need synthetic, don't put regular oils in.

That's my thought on this.

I don't believe in break it in period. You should drive it like how you would normally drive the car.

 

Mass production means cars that are built by the thousands, on assembly lines. It doesnt matter wrether its 5000 or 50000, its still mass produced. Cars that are not mass produced are exotics. This is not my idea of mass produced cars, its the way it is. And you're wrong about one thing, yes synthetic oil has been around for a while but only recently was it used and suggested by car manufacturers. Im almost positive that the Evo 8 was the first Mitsubishi car that came with Mobil 1 from the factory.

 

That is not all true zmeli. If you've traveled that site long enough you'll know that on this very site there are dozens upon dozens of guys that uses a specific type of cleaner with shown improvements and oil analysis. It's called Auto-Rx. http://www.auto-rx.com/

Now unlike most engine flushes, A-rx doesn't strip away seals and such with harsh chemicals (almost like sand blasting your engine). The thing that makes it more believable is that all of these guys have spent their money on oil analysis after analysis to see if there was an improvement, plus there where quite a few that also took pics of their before and after crankcases to show it actually did clean as advertised and not just improve through an oil analysis.

Now myself personally am doing this with my 2g because it had 36k miles before I got it and from the looks of it seemed to go through some extended dino oil changes which put quite a lot of build up on the valve cover and valves/block. When I painted the vavle cover I cleaned off all the varnish on my vavle cover and started using synthetics from there on out. The car has 115k miles on it and I just recently changed the vavle cover seal. No tarnish or built up crap on the vavle cover since I've been using syn since then with regular oil changes.

What does that tell me? Well the whole time I've used syn and changed my oil varying from 3k-5k since 36k miles, syn is the only way to go to keep it as clean as possible and not have the chance to break down causing all that varnish and build up. I've started using the A-rx in the 2g to see if I can get the same results as the others have said on http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/. If it does work as others have stated I'll only have to do this and then continue to use syn for the life of the car in order to keep it as clean as my valve cover has been over the last eight years.

Since I've use syn from day 1 on the Evo, I don't believe I'll have to use anything like A-rx because the syn won't tarnish and build up like conventional oils can. Proof was shown to me in the 2g over the past years.

 

what kind of a oil change/break-in combination is that?

why not just change oil once at 5k miles?

 

First you dont need to leave your factory fill in for 5000 miles. Your rings should seal within the first few hundred miles (if not sooner if you drive it hard.) After your rings seal your motor is broke in, which means you can remove the factory fill and add fresh oil.

I monitored my oil usage during breakin and I could tell it ate oil up until the point of the rings sealing. After they were sealed (~800 for my car) I filled up with fresh oil.

Since the change, I havent eaten any oil and have been through a complete dyno session. I monitor the oil after each hard trip and its always the same.

 

Race engines, and many performance engines, seat their rings almost immediately upon fire-up.

I think Honda, and others, simply did not hone their bores as carefully and, as a result, require a "rougher" break-in period facilitated by a conventional oil.

Another guess is that, on cars with poor break-in clearance, the synthetic oils can "slip past" the rings to be burnt resulting in excessive oil consumption.

 

I could notice oil being consumed during break in, I even had to add some. However after driving it harder and for a few more hundred miles the oil consumption came to a hault and hasnt increased at all.

 

No, I'm not.

No, your engine won't, but the turbo will if you get it hot enough. I have experienced something like that.

 

I never said that the EVO is not the first car using synthetic oil from Mitsu. But porsche been using Synthetic forever.

I dont want to drive this thread off topic so what we are looking for here if the oil has an additve or if the engine is broken in.

 

I am angry. I bought my 05 new and included was a 3yr,45,000mile service warranty including oil changes. I never used the service warranty but twice, when I got lazy. On both occasions, I just found out, they used regular Castrol Oil. Instead of Syntec!!! Even though the manual clearly states that they should only be using synthetic. The sticker they put on the window to remind me of my next oil change was marked Castrol (as in regular oil) while the synthetic box next to it was not marked. That pissed me off, even more so now that I read this. The engine does get super hot and knowing that all that crap is possibly building up in my turbo makes me pissed. Fresno Mitsubishi=worst dealership in California. Probably anywhere else for that matter. What should I do? Besides not take it there for oil changes?