The theory of Synthetic oil in New EVO
Originally Posted by TogueMonster
I am angry. I bought my 05 new and included was a 3yr,45,000mile service warranty including oil changes. I never used the service warranty but twice, when I got lazy. On both occasions, I just found out, they used regular Castrol Oil. Instead of Syntec!!! Even though the manual clearly states that they should only be using synthetic. The sticker they put on the window to remind me of my next oil change was marked Castrol (as in regular oil) while the synthetic box next to it was not marked. That pissed me off, even more so now that I read this. The engine does get super hot and knowing that all that crap is possibly building up in my turbo makes me pissed. Fresno Mitsubishi=worst dealership in California. Probably anywhere else for that matter. What should I do? Besides not take it there for oil changes?
Nothing but changing the oil few times in a row to clean it up... you are okay. Plus a sticker does not mean they used regular oil... Maybe they used Mobile 1 but used different sticker.
Just because they put a Castrol sticker on your window doesn't mean that they put in Castol. Hell the person that put that on your car could have been a lazy cuss.
Get a sample and have it tested - this will be the true way to tell and you will have proof of what they put in your car.
Get a sample and have it tested - this will be the true way to tell and you will have proof of what they put in your car.
Originally Posted by TogueMonster
I am angry. I bought my 05 new and included was a 3yr,45,000mile service warranty including oil changes. I never used the service warranty but twice, when I got lazy. On both occasions, I just found out, they used regular Castrol Oil. Instead of Syntec!!! Even though the manual clearly states that they should only be using synthetic. The sticker they put on the window to remind me of my next oil change was marked Castrol (as in regular oil) while the synthetic box next to it was not marked. That pissed me off, even more so now that I read this. The engine does get super hot and knowing that all that crap is possibly building up in my turbo makes me pissed. Fresno Mitsubishi=worst dealership in California. Probably anywhere else for that matter. What should I do? Besides not take it there for oil changes?
Evolved Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 685
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From: Long Beach, CA
I've got 650 miles on my IX and i think its time to put in an order at www.amsoil.com
Not to add more gas to the "How to Break in an Engine" fire, but read this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
They build racing motorcycle engines. I found this back when I raced quads. I used this technique when I rebuilt my engine and so far has worked flawlessly. If you read the whole thing (sorry, kind of long) there are some really good arguments on why NOT to take it easy on your engine to break it in.
Now remember, this is only to break in a new engine. For driveline parts like you clutch, tranny, TC and differentials it is still recommended to go slow and easy, so the above approach only really applies to break in after rebuilding an engine, not break in on a brand new car. Enjoy!
EVOlutionary
They build racing motorcycle engines. I found this back when I raced quads. I used this technique when I rebuilt my engine and so far has worked flawlessly. If you read the whole thing (sorry, kind of long) there are some really good arguments on why NOT to take it easy on your engine to break it in.
Now remember, this is only to break in a new engine. For driveline parts like you clutch, tranny, TC and differentials it is still recommended to go slow and easy, so the above approach only really applies to break in after rebuilding an engine, not break in on a brand new car. Enjoy!
EVOlutionary
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, AZ
Originally Posted by wacboyjulian
If/ When i get my Evo IX, i would/am seriously consider(ing) replacing the synthetic with conventional for at least a couple thousand miles....
has anybody else gone this route? and if so, how were the results??? recommend or no?
has anybody else gone this route? and if so, how were the results??? recommend or no?
And if/when you get your Evo IX you should take a look at the oil cap that comes on it from the FACTORY. You will see mitsu decided on mobil 1 FULLY SYNTHETIC motor oil.. But hey what the hell does mitsu know.. I mean after all they have only been building and tuning that motor for over 15 years..
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
Not to add more gas to the "How to Break in an Engine" fire, but read this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
They build racing motorcycle engines. I found this back when I raced quads. I used this technique when I rebuilt my engine and so far has worked flawlessly. If you read the whole thing (sorry, kind of long) there are some really good arguments on why NOT to take it easy on your engine to break it in.
Now remember, this is only to break in a new engine. For driveline parts like you clutch, tranny, TC and differentials it is still recommended to go slow and easy, so the above approach only really applies to break in after rebuilding an engine, not break in on a brand new car. Enjoy!
EVOlutionary
They build racing motorcycle engines. I found this back when I raced quads. I used this technique when I rebuilt my engine and so far has worked flawlessly. If you read the whole thing (sorry, kind of long) there are some really good arguments on why NOT to take it easy on your engine to break it in.
Now remember, this is only to break in a new engine. For driveline parts like you clutch, tranny, TC and differentials it is still recommended to go slow and easy, so the above approach only really applies to break in after rebuilding an engine, not break in on a brand new car. Enjoy!
EVOlutionary
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Originally Posted by Karma'sEvo
And if/when you get your Evo IX you should take a look at the oil cap that comes on it from the FACTORY. You will see mitsu decided on mobil 1 FULLY SYNTHETIC motor oil.. But hey what the hell does mitsu know.. I mean after all they have only been building and tuning that motor for over 15 years..
i thought it was only recently that Mitsu started the use of using synthetic in its cars from the factory.
Originally Posted by wacboyjulian
thats the article i've read multiple times that makes me want to use conventional for the first 1000 miles or so
EVOlutionary
Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
Conventional oil may help the rings seat better, but as stated above it probably will not hold up to the hot turbo. Now, if you are going to keep out of boost and drive nice and slow for 1000 miles, then the heat issue should not be a problem.
EVOlutionary
EVOlutionary
"EVOlutionary my dear Waston....EVOlutioary" LMAO
I am 99% sure that at least the EVOs have some sort of break in before they leave the warehouse.
BTW, there is no way that I will use any other type of oil except full synthetic.... btw.... Mobil 1 is my oil of preference.
I also own a Civic which every time that I bring it to the road, I always hit the 10,000 RPMs just as part of his eternal break in. The engine has 78,000 miles on it since overhaul and no problem since then.... always used Mobile 1..... no blue smoke yet!
BTW, there is no way that I will use any other type of oil except full synthetic.... btw.... Mobil 1 is my oil of preference.
I also own a Civic which every time that I bring it to the road, I always hit the 10,000 RPMs just as part of his eternal break in.
The engine has 78,000 miles on it since overhaul and no problem since then.... always used Mobile 1..... no blue smoke yet!
As a less technically inclined person (when it comes to cars), it's difficult to see the continuous 'battles' over what seems to simply be preference. You have people from either side of the fence adamant that their way is best. And to prove it's the best, they inform you that they've been braking in engines for X amount of years and never had any problems. To me, that's all well and good. I know a lot about cars, engines, drivetrains, etc. But my knowledge is strictly academic in its nature. I have no REAL experience with these things. I can only research and decide for myself, based upon the information I find.
So, it would seem I have several various combinations I *could* go with, based upon all the threads on all the forums I've read. In the end, I have to believe (additives or not, unknown motives or not) that Mitsubishi included the overall best way to break in their motor based on THEIR research. Using the aforementioned methods might be faster, work better, help in other ways...but it's generally too complicated for the average driver. For me, if I had more concrete proof, I'm sure my mind would change. But, for now, I think I've made my mind up: when and if I get my IX in the coming months, I will be following the factory manual directions to a 'T'.
So, it would seem I have several various combinations I *could* go with, based upon all the threads on all the forums I've read. In the end, I have to believe (additives or not, unknown motives or not) that Mitsubishi included the overall best way to break in their motor based on THEIR research. Using the aforementioned methods might be faster, work better, help in other ways...but it's generally too complicated for the average driver. For me, if I had more concrete proof, I'm sure my mind would change. But, for now, I think I've made my mind up: when and if I get my IX in the coming months, I will be following the factory manual directions to a 'T'.
Engines do not get broken in by the manufacturer in the way that you are describing. Theres no time. For a high production car your talking a cycle time between 30 seconds and a minute. Then its ship it out the door....on to the next. Also, engines do not start until the car is completely assembled in most cases.
Not true. Mitsubishi dyno tests every EVO engine in a dyno cell. I expect they do use regular oil during dyno testing with some form of additive for break in them change it out when they install the engine. I will read the article again in Lancer EVO mag that had pics of the engine cell and see if it mentions anything on the synthetic oil. Good article that goes over the whole cars production sequence.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
From: Davis, California
Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
Not to add more gas to the "How to Break in an Engine" fire, but read this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
They build racing motorcycle engines. I found this back when I raced quads. I used this technique when I rebuilt my engine and so far has worked flawlessly. If you read the whole thing (sorry, kind of long) there are some really good arguments on why NOT to take it easy on your engine to break it in.
They build racing motorcycle engines. I found this back when I raced quads. I used this technique when I rebuilt my engine and so far has worked flawlessly. If you read the whole thing (sorry, kind of long) there are some really good arguments on why NOT to take it easy on your engine to break it in.
Originally Posted by motoman
What about "heat cycling" the engine ??
There is no need to "heat cycle" a new engine. The term "heat cycle" comes from the idea that the new engine components are being "heat treated" as the engine is run. Heat treating the metal parts is a very different process, and it's already done at the factory before the engines are assembled.
There is no need to "heat cycle" a new engine. The term "heat cycle" comes from the idea that the new engine components are being "heat treated" as the engine is run. Heat treating the metal parts is a very different process, and it's already done at the factory before the engines are assembled.
That guy just screams "tool".
Bold and red font, advertisements galore (for Budweiser and bikini girls, no less), constant baseless attack on authority, etc etc.
Originally Posted by HAMMERS
Mitsubishi dose use a additive in the motor oil during breakin. As well as honda / toyota. I have worked at all 3 dealerships and have done Pree delivery inscections no all kinds of stuff. This is why thay dont want you to change oil untill after 5k miles for the first oilchange.
for further proof if you drain the oil on a new car w/less than 10 miles on it the oil looks kinda milky and white.
So yes thay do use an additive but i am not shure if thay use synthetic.
for further proof if you drain the oil on a new car w/less than 10 miles on it the oil looks kinda milky and white.
So yes thay do use an additive but i am not shure if thay use synthetic.
I did my first oil change my self and it def wasnt milky and white
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,635
Likes: 3
From: Butt**** Nowhere
5w30 Mobil doesn't burn in my motor, but 10w30 does. Anyone car to explain?
the answer could be here.... www.bobistheoilguy.com
the answer could be here.... www.bobistheoilguy.com