Do you need an MBC with a flash?
Do you need an MBC with a flash?
This is really a continuation of a discussion started here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...0&postcount=43
But I didn't want to bring that thread too off topic and I think this is a question a lot of people on here have.
Question: Do you need an MBC to control boost if you already have a Flash that controls boost? (i.e. Dynoflash, EcuTek)
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...0&postcount=43
But I didn't want to bring that thread too off topic and I think this is a question a lot of people on here have.
Question: Do you need an MBC to control boost if you already have a Flash that controls boost? (i.e. Dynoflash, EcuTek)
Last edited by sirploppy; Mar 2, 2006 at 01:09 PM.
Originally Posted by asstard
Why do you need ot start another thread asking that question. If in doubt, ask Al since you are saying specifically dynoflash. Just call, email, pm, etc and he'll tell you.
Originally Posted by sirploppy
I was 50/50 whether to put it here or dynoflash forum, but I really meant Dynoflash or any other flash that controls boost--> Not sure if TurboTrix , Ams, or Works do or not.
You can do it with the stocker .. changing pills helps. For consistant boost accross the entire range . i would recommend a manual ..
Mark
Turbotrix
You may want to give this a read:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=149000
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=149000
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The only reason you would NEED an MBC is if you want end user adjustability.
It's clear that all of the various flashes/piggybacks/stand alones can control boost by adjusting the wastegate duty cycle. The only thing that needs to be overcome is that the factory solenoid + vac lines (with pills) cannot bypass enough air to achieve the higher boost targets. This is very simply fixed by allowing the system to bypass more air by removing the restrictor pill or installing a bleeder line in series with the solenoid (or even installing an aftermarket solenoid like GM/Perrin/Prodrive).
The ECU controlling boost is obviously a more elegant solution if you just want to raise the boost to optimum levels for your mods while retaining the reliability and safety measures built in to the ECU. With proper tuning, the ECU should be able to hold better boost to redline (since you can adjust the wastegate duty cycle by RPMs), as well as adjust to changing ambient temps and loads to hold the same boost in every gear.
It's clear that all of the various flashes/piggybacks/stand alones can control boost by adjusting the wastegate duty cycle. The only thing that needs to be overcome is that the factory solenoid + vac lines (with pills) cannot bypass enough air to achieve the higher boost targets. This is very simply fixed by allowing the system to bypass more air by removing the restrictor pill or installing a bleeder line in series with the solenoid (or even installing an aftermarket solenoid like GM/Perrin/Prodrive).
The ECU controlling boost is obviously a more elegant solution if you just want to raise the boost to optimum levels for your mods while retaining the reliability and safety measures built in to the ECU. With proper tuning, the ECU should be able to hold better boost to redline (since you can adjust the wastegate duty cycle by RPMs), as well as adjust to changing ambient temps and loads to hold the same boost in every gear.


