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Breaking in a Stroker Motor

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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 03:05 PM
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Breaking in a Stroker Motor

I will soon be the proud new owner of a Buschur 2.3L motor and was wondering if the same break in applies to that motor as would apply to a stock EVO motor? Also, the car is going to be tuned there, do they do some sort of break in before they put it on the dyno to tune it? Also, Im having an Exedy clutch installed at Buschur and I know you have to break in a new clutch, is it necessary to do that before tuning the car on the dyno? Just wondering while I wait to bring the car to them....
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 03:07 PM
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Iam sure David will take care of your concerns or at least be able to answer them when you get there.
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 04:52 PM
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I know David will answer any questions i have, i was looking for any one elses experiences
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 04:54 PM
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Good luck with the car, it will turn out well. Will you be running the 35r on it? I would love to see when you reach full boost. Should be a bear when its done!!
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 04:56 PM
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IMO...break in your motor the way you're going to drive it...HARD.

Teach that ***** a lesson and give it hell outta the box. I AM being serious.
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 05:37 PM
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From: La Isla Del Encanto
Originally Posted by TomsEVO
I will soon be the proud new owner of a Buschur 2.3L motor and was wondering if the same break in applies to that motor as would apply to a stock EVO motor? Also, the car is going to be tuned there, do they do some sort of break in before they put it on the dyno to tune it? Also, Im having an Exedy clutch installed at Buschur and I know you have to break in a new clutch, is it necessary to do that before tuning the car on the dyno? Just wondering while I wait to bring the car to them....
Did you talk to Dave about this? I am pretty sure he knows how to break in a new motor .
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 06:07 PM
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My engine builder gave me these procedures:

200 miles low boost (i.e. 11psi WG pressure)
500 miles on reasonable boost (no higher then 20psi)

Then go apesh!t
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 06:17 PM
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From: Texas...panhandle...ugh
Originally Posted by nrcooled
My engine builder gave me these procedures:

200 miles low boost (i.e. 11psi WG pressure)
500 miles on reasonable boost (no higher then 20psi)

Then go apesh!t
That's what I've garnered after many hours and talking to several engine builders. I'll be interested to see what David says, so let us know. See, with an original motor, there is some scoring of the cylinder walls from the factory which serve to abrade the edges of the rings to get them to fit perfectly. If you baby it too much from the factory, the scoring wears down before you really get the rings to expand and seat firmly. Thus, the engines from the factory which are broken in hard (hard being the formula given above by nrcooled...which is about the same I've gotten from experienced engine builders myself) will put out better power than those that were babied.

The built motor will (hopefully) be line-honed which means there won't be any scoring on the cylinder walls...unless David does that on purpose or something. But the rings are aftermarket also...so there are a couple of new dynamics. My best guess is that you should break it in about as stated by nrcooler...but David will not steer you wrong. Honestly...he does know exactly how to best break in his engines (or his builder does...he's not the one actually doing the work...so make sure it comes from the builder and that he's used this builder for a long time). I'd trust in his advisement...including which oil to break in with, etc.
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 06:47 PM
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Good catch, I left off the oil. I was told to use a heavy weight non-detergent oil primed through the engine before initial start-up. The shop putting the engine back in had to buy a priming tool to properly prime the engine. NO DRY START UP

For the first 200 miles I am not to use any synthetic oil and ONLY use conventional low-detergent oil. Change the oil about every 50 miles and after that I can run any oil that I want.
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 09:04 PM
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Your car will be on the dyno. A friend of mine towed his car up, he tought the car was going to get a mild tune so he could break it in...um no. Dave tuned that car on 93 , and never looked back.
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TomsEVO
Also, Im having an Exedy clutch installed at Buschur and I know you have to break in a new clutch....
Considering what virtually every clutch manufacturer emphasizes regarding the importance of clutch break in with respect to clutch longevity, there is your answer.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 12:09 AM
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Tom don't worry about it. Dave will break it in on the dyno for you. I had all of 50 miles on mine when I trucked it up there to get it tuned to break it in. I asked Dave his thoughts and he said he breaks in all their motors on the Dyno. I said well if thats what you do have at it, and that was the end of my break in. I figure if the guy has been doing it for that long he knows what hes doin.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:42 AM
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very interesting topic, i want to do the same setup myself and i wanted to ask this same question
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:50 AM
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I know the manual said to do it a certain way but I just broke my car in by beating the living sh*t out of it for the first 1000 miles. Now at 42k, it doesnt burn a drop of oil, it's problem free, and its made great power thus far. I BELIEVE Buschur says drive it hard for break-in but I may be wrong. Id like to hear him chime in when he gets off his "ban"
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:55 AM
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From: sc
Personally I would break in a built motor a lot more gentile then a factory built
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