Anyone install a low profile fan? - Instructions?
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Anyone install a low profile fan? - Instructions?
Need some instructions for a Flex-a-lite!
I'd prefer to use the stock wiring, than to use the controller they give yah. Any help would be appreciated.
I'd prefer to use the stock wiring, than to use the controller they give yah. Any help would be appreciated.
Im not sure about a flex-lite but it should be the same as mine. I have a SPAL.
Just use the plastic zip-lock type things to hold it. There will be a power and a ground wire coming off the fan (Both may be the same color... this is so you can reverse the rotation if you want). Just cut the stock wiring off the stock fan and then connect the wires to the new fans wiring. You may also have an extra one.. I didnt use it (I believe I crimped both together).
Just use the plastic zip-lock type things to hold it. There will be a power and a ground wire coming off the fan (Both may be the same color... this is so you can reverse the rotation if you want). Just cut the stock wiring off the stock fan and then connect the wires to the new fans wiring. You may also have an extra one.. I didnt use it (I believe I crimped both together).
Yep.
I was using it with the stock ECU when I had it, then with the U-TEC piggyback when I had it and now the EMS. I would think I can toss the controller now.. the only reason I kept it is because I had no idea on what it did. I still dont but as long as the fan turns on at a certain temp Im happy.
Maybe I just dont know what it does but why do you want to keep the controller? I will take mine out tomorrow and make sure the fan still turns on but I think it is just some sort of a relay type device (Like the fuel pump) isnt it?
I was using it with the stock ECU when I had it, then with the U-TEC piggyback when I had it and now the EMS. I would think I can toss the controller now.. the only reason I kept it is because I had no idea on what it did. I still dont but as long as the fan turns on at a certain temp Im happy.
Maybe I just dont know what it does but why do you want to keep the controller? I will take mine out tomorrow and make sure the fan still turns on but I think it is just some sort of a relay type device (Like the fuel pump) isnt it?
Well I read what it does. It has been awhile since I did the wires on it but the manual shows it has three wires going in and 2 coming out. I thought it was three going to the fan. Ill look later on tonight.
From what I gather from the manual, it seems it takes the voltage and converts it so some sort of a pulsewidth type thing. By removing it you will most likely just make the fan run at full volts when it does turn on as opposed to running it at 80%. I could be wrong but thats what it seems from the manual.
From what I gather from the manual, it seems it takes the voltage and converts it so some sort of a pulsewidth type thing. By removing it you will most likely just make the fan run at full volts when it does turn on as opposed to running it at 80%. I could be wrong but thats what it seems from the manual.
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Originally Posted by TrinaBabe
Yep.
I was using it with the stock ECU when I had it, then with the U-TEC piggyback when I had it and now the EMS. I would think I can toss the controller now.. the only reason I kept it is because I had no idea on what it did. I still dont but as long as the fan turns on at a certain temp Im happy.
Maybe I just dont know what it does but why do you want to keep the controller? I will take mine out tomorrow and make sure the fan still turns on but I think it is just some sort of a relay type device (Like the fuel pump) isnt it?
I was using it with the stock ECU when I had it, then with the U-TEC piggyback when I had it and now the EMS. I would think I can toss the controller now.. the only reason I kept it is because I had no idea on what it did. I still dont but as long as the fan turns on at a certain temp Im happy.
Maybe I just dont know what it does but why do you want to keep the controller? I will take mine out tomorrow and make sure the fan still turns on but I think it is just some sort of a relay type device (Like the fuel pump) isnt it?
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Well ok I looked at how mine is. The in side of the stock controller has three wires (Im assuming 1 high volt, 1 low volt and a ground). The outside has only two wires.... power/ground. I just spliced the power to the power for the fan and the ground to ground. Works fine. I want to toss my box as well but I dont know which power wire going to the controller is the correct one. Its raining out and I do everything in a damned parking lot but once I get the right wire Ill let ya know. If you do it first let me know
I hate the stupid box. Cluttering up my engine bay.
I hate the stupid box. Cluttering up my engine bay.
Not for nothing, but that box is probably a relay.
In:
Power (high current from fusebox)
Power (low current switched from ECU)
Ground
Out:
Power (High current switched)
Ground
If you try to run the fan off of the trigger signal from the ECU it will draw too much current and kill that circuit in the ECU, if you run it off the other power wire it will be on all the time...
All of this is assuming I'm gussing right, I could be completely wrong. But if I was mitsu, that's how I'd do it.
In:
Power (high current from fusebox)
Power (low current switched from ECU)
Ground
Out:
Power (High current switched)
Ground
If you try to run the fan off of the trigger signal from the ECU it will draw too much current and kill that circuit in the ECU, if you run it off the other power wire it will be on all the time...
All of this is assuming I'm gussing right, I could be completely wrong. But if I was mitsu, that's how I'd do it.
So now I don't understand what you want to do...
Don't you want to get rid of the box to clean it up under the hood? That box is the relay, you need it, which you agreed to.
What am I missing?
Don't you want to get rid of the box to clean it up under the hood? That box is the relay, you need it, which you agreed to.
What am I missing?
Oh ok, then replace the box with a simple relay

I never really looked at it, I was just going off what you were telling me.
You can use a multimeter to confirm what we have discussed. If the on lead truely is a hot +12V and the other is a switched +12V then any relay should work in that situation.
It does make me wonder why the box is so big though, some other black
magic going on in there.

I never really looked at it, I was just going off what you were telling me.
You can use a multimeter to confirm what we have discussed. If the on lead truely is a hot +12V and the other is a switched +12V then any relay should work in that situation.
It does make me wonder why the box is so big though, some other black
magic going on in there.
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