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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 09:28 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by nrcooled
http://www.rallycars.com/Cars/bangbang.html

just FYI and the reason why I said "depending on useage"

As far as saying misleading things, I think we are talking about the exact same thing just in different manners.
ah from the way i read it i didn't think you were referring to one of the air routing methods in antilag... mainly cuz i understood farmer's question differently.
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 10:26 PM
  #32  
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so, hold on a minute here, do I have this anti-lag thing or not? Seems from what triny dex is talking about, it's going something like it but not quite.

sorry to be retarded, but i don't even know what egt means... arrrrrrgh!!11!
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 10:50 PM
  #33  
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antilag is nothing more than tuning, you tune antilag into a car. but you have the hardware for it!
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 11:13 PM
  #34  
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yippee!!! I have anti lag. All I need now is a clue!!

I'll post a pic of the manifold proper once I get it done (in about 10 minutes).
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 11:53 PM
  #35  
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to explain more about antilag, (if you don't wanna search cuz i've posted this exact same info like 10 times).

antilag is a type of tuning where both fuel and ignition timing are retarded under no load, closed throttle conditions. this allows fuel to be pushed out of the valves and a spark to ignite this fuel in the manifold or sometimes in theabsense of retarded ignition the autoignition from the temperatures in the manifold create the combustion that then drives the turbine blades which maintain boost under closed throttle conditions.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 12:21 AM
  #36  
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hee hee... sorry. I would have done but haven't got the time yet. [still trying to find time to get the darn bit out, but keep having to answer e-mails and stuff]. Thanks for the info. Sure sounds a bit scary. Not for the beginner tuner I guess...
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:08 AM
  #37  
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it's also not good to run all the time cuz it makes teh hot side parts wear a lot faster.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:32 AM
  #38  
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Angry

^oh, _now_ the bad news..

Anyway, this job is taking the ****. We're up to drilling the M10 bolt with a 6.5mm drill cos extractors are just not having any of it. The bolt is so hard the high speed drills are having a hard time. We've been at it an hour now. Managed to ease it like 1/2 a turn just hammer drifting it.... DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!!

Anyway, here's another pic...


Last edited by x838nwy; Apr 7, 2006 at 02:37 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:37 AM
  #39  
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get some titanium coated drill bits that will make the job easier
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:38 AM
  #40  
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did you use penatrating spray on it first (with the manifold being cool'd down first)
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:40 AM
  #41  
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The most silly thing is that for this size, we haven't got any titanium drills. Don't ask me why. We've got carbide but the hand-held drill just doesn't go that fast or we've got like 12mm+ titanium bits. Just my luck...

All sorts of fluids were used and yup penetrating fluids also

The car is cooled, but ambient is 39degC which shouldn't be bad for the job, but I've lost about 3 pints of _my_ fliud already. Which is perhaps why i keep coming back to this air-conned room to post

Last edited by x838nwy; Apr 7, 2006 at 02:59 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 03:00 AM
  #42  
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After much swearing and usage of fluids, the bloody thing is off. Basically, it's back to the old method of drilling as much of the core out as you dare. About to tap it again and hopefully I can keep the same hole, otherwise it's going to be M12 or up
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:41 PM
  #43  
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well if you do one you might as well do them all :\ i hate using more than one size wrench to take out things in the same area.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 06:00 PM
  #44  
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Fortunately, the same old thread still works. Only the threads deeper into the hole are fine so I only need to get a new bolt.... sorted!!! HOORAY!!!

Thanks for the comments/advice/info everyone!!
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 06:17 PM
  #45  
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The tube is the Secondary Air System, which isn't fitted to US spec cars. Here's a little about it:

This is an excert taken from the manual about secondary air control....

During deceleration from high speed, the secondary air is introduced upstream of the turbo charger. This operation prevents the turbine speed from dropping and thus enhances responsiveness when the driver next wishes to accelerate. for maximum effectiveness, secondary air is introduced into the exhaust manifold immediately down stream of each cylinder.
secondary air is introduced for approximately 3 mins when both of the following conditions are satisfied
a) The engine speed drops sharply after at least 3 seconds of full-throttle acceleration.
b)The engine speed is 4000rpm or higher
(when you're giving it some!!!!!)

There are 2 actuators
1. secondary air control solenoid valve.
This is an ON/OFF solenoid valve, it switches the pressure applied to the secondary air valve between the intake manifold vacuum pressure and the atmospheric pressure. When the solenoid coil is not energised, continuity exists between the X-nipple and the ambient air.
When the solenoid coil is energised,continuity exists between the X-nipple and Y-nipple.

2. secondary air valve....
The secondary air valve turns ON and OFF the secondary air supply by opening and closing in accordance with the vacuum pressure applied to the diaphragm chamber.
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