My 2 cents worth,


I had the 7000 rpm 1-2 grind since day 1. Put in redline mt90 no change. Added stainless clutchline and removed restrictor, no change. Added kartboy bushings and shifter, no change. Dealer replaced the clutch at 10,000 miles, no change. Finally put in bg suncroshift, no change. Adjusted the clutch pedal height to the hight side of factory spec, problem solved.

But now my syncros are worn.

I think this problem is most often a result of the clutch not fully disengageing, which prevents the gears from slowing down and the syncros from doing their job of lining up the gears. This can happen if the pedal height is too low or some of the parts are warped from excessive heat (requires more travel to fully disengage).

Feel free to correct me if I am wrong, there are for more knowledgable folks out there than myself.

 

yeah adjust the clutch pedal higher this will help out

 

I agree 100%! We often get a bad rap for this when I have seen the same symptoms on just about every clutch out there including factory stock parts. I am constantly amazed by how many people are willing to spend thousands to change parts (and shops willing to take it), but they can't seem to find the 5 minutes to change the adjustment to see if that works. The other problem is just as you said, that the syncros are working overtime while it is misadjusted and they often don't realize the problem until the syncros are toast. To complicate matters even more there is the syncro TSB and other issues that cause the similar symptoms.

 

Is there a reason why you need to shift at 7000rpm or higher into 2nd? I always shift into 2nd at 6800 or so to avoid lockout or grinding gears. Every other gear shifts just fine at 7500+.

 

Means your evo is normal on stock clutch

Mine doesnt go into 2nd at the track for this reason - fast shifting + fast spinning flywheel that weighs alot