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Pulling the engine

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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 11:11 AM
  #16  
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From: Phoenix
Originally Posted by elhalisf
lets get some terminogoly straight here
the driveshaft is the big long peice that goes from the t-case to the rear end. that peice simply slides off the t-case
the axles are the 2 left/right peices that attach the tcase to the wheel hubs. those are secured by snap rings, which can simply be popped off using a crow bar.
the 2 half shafts are the small rods that go inside the t-case and trans, which are also secured by snap rings, but need a slide hammer to be popped off.
thats right. getting ahead of myself. as far as the slie hammer is concerned.....will any one work, or do I need to get a special head for it?
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 11:13 AM
  #17  
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From: Chandler, AZ
any one that is attached to a chain would work. you need to use one of the 12mm bolts with a strong large spacer to put inbetween the chain holes, to the halfshaft hole. make sure you use spare bolts, since you will probably bend the bolt that will be used.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 11:17 AM
  #18  
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From: Phoenix
but with your method of removing all three items, the half-shafts can stay in until I get everything out of the car.

This is why it is easier to do all of this as one unit out of the car? I assume it can back in as one assembly as well. Just a matter of manuevering things in place.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 11:30 AM
  #19  
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From: Chandler, AZ
exactly, on both questions.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 11:59 AM
  #20  
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by elhalisf
its is VERY difficult to remove the t-case out of the car without removing the trans.
I agree with every statement in this thread except for this one. Removing the TC is very simple IF the manual procedure is followed properly.

- Remove Axles
- Remove Driveshaft
- Remove Driver's Side Halfshaft with slap-hammer
- Unbolt upper bolt in rear mount (Easiest to get to this bolt from the top with upper IC pipe and battery removed. It can be had from the bottom but is more tricky)
- Place jack under front mount bracket and jack up engine to tile engine backwards, this increases the clearance between the rear of the motor and the crossmember.
- Unbolt TC and drop it, using the jack under the front mount there is plenty of room to maneuver it out.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 12:13 PM
  #21  
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From: Phoenix
thanks alot guys for the help. I plan on doing this task this weekend and wanted to know exactly what I was going to need and what order/parts to remove.

I already have the entire exhaust mainfold ***'y out, radiator removed, battery & tray are out, all IC pipes are off, valve cover is off, down pipe removed. I started reading the service manual on removing the engine and realized, I am almost there, why not just pull it and make life easier on myself for the rebuild.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 01:46 PM
  #22  
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by althemean
valve cover is off
Why is the valve cover off to remove the engine? Leave it on to avoid damaging any internals... I understand you're rebuilding, but you should still protect what's left of your motor.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 02:23 PM
  #23  
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From: Phoenix
Originally Posted by SuperHatch
Why is the valve cover off to remove the engine? Leave it on to avoid damaging any internals... I understand you're rebuilding, but you should still protect what's left of your motor.
I was inspecting for damage so I removed it. I found a rocker arm on the intake side had come off the lash adjuster and was floating around under the cam. The cause of my motor problems......along with the metal in the engine.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 02:24 PM
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by althemean
I was inspecting for damage so I removed it. I found a rocker arm on the intake side had come off the lash adjuster and was floating around under the cam. The cause of my motor problems......along with the metal in the engine.
Wow, ouch, sorry....
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 03:08 PM
  #25  
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From: Phoenix
yeah...so I am biting the bullet and doing the engine. I am always saying "I am the only one who wrenches on this car" so I figure now is the time to really step up to bat and find out how much I can do. I am an aircraft mechanic, two different worlds but bolts are bolts.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 12:07 AM
  #26  
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Watch your throtle body/back of the intake on the cowl area when you're lifting it out, since you pulled the turbo off though it will give you more clearance to just pull the whole thing forward and not worry about it.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 05:43 AM
  #27  
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From: Phoenix
I was looking at all that last night as I was undoing the wiring harness (labeling the crap out of everything too I might add) and I thought to myself....Do I need to remove/undo the ac compressor housing and power steering as well? For that matter, all of the accessories?

It looks like to clear the mount on the drivers side that the whole ***'y will have to be moved to the passenger side of the car.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 11:57 AM
  #28  
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You need to unbolt the ac from the block, it's only 4 bolts. I left the PS pump on the block and just undid the hardlines. I left the alternator on the back, it's fine. I did move everything to the drivers side a bit before pulling the block out.
If you have a load leveler tilt the whole assembly and you'll be fine. I had loaned mine out and was in a rush so I just pull the tranny first. When you're that far into it already pulling the tranny only takes 10 minutes.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 05:11 PM
  #29  
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From: Phoenix
I have to admit...I am a little intimidated by the whole process. I am still going to go through with it.

Getting back to the axles...the service manual says to seperate the lower arm bar/tie rods...and then pull the hub off the axle....is this how everyone is doing it? The manual calls for a special tool to do the ball joints...can I just use a regular tie rod seperator? The one that looks like a fork?
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 05:45 PM
  #30  
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From: Phoenix
bump.....
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