here is someone who had his car blow up socal evo....same issue with ARP headstud:

http://www.socalevo.net/index.php?op...&topic=21260.0

 

Swapping in the ARP headstuds involves a fairly strict procedure that is most likely not being followed by those who have problems. For sure if you have a car with higher mileage, it would be best to go ahead and have the head resurfaced. I installed them 1x1 on my 2005 Evo at about 10,000 miles and used the procedure recommended on the ARP website. No issues at 26,000 miles.

You must "pre-stretch" the studs by gradually increasing the torque applied over the course of 5-6 seatings before final tightening at full torque.

Re-torquing them after heat-cycling is doing the same thing, stretching the studs, only after the install...just more time consuming.

 

actually one of his headstuds backed out and he melted one of his pistons. didnt have anything to do with leaking but they were installed 1x1 method but never knew why the headstud backed out.

anyways. if not changing your headstuds can cause your gasket to blow or leak. and not changing them is another crap shoot on whether it leaks or not why not just wait til you blow the gasket or not to change the headstuds so you can do it the right way. or is it more dangerous if the stock studs stretch and the head lifts?

 

I've had mine in for 25k miles... installed in the 1x1 method. No leaks..... guess my car is a freak.

 

Most don't want to face the fact that you need to heat cycle and retorque.

 

Mine were installed by a shop, My friend APR studs too. The thread is on EVOM and it had no less than 15 EVOs leaking from the same spot (not valve cover).

I am in the middle of a network job so I will post more later

 

Just got under my car and found oil on the back side of the Motor not alot had my ARP's done 1 by 1 I think it will have to be fixed soon don't like the thought of oil on the outside of the Motor rather then the inside. SH*T what a paine in the A**.

 

I did the 1x1 method......no leaks of anything....

 

I knew it. Most owners just dont know because its very small. this is a problem that many need to know.

 

Did you check behind the block?

 

Yep car only has 13K on it had the ARP's & Cam's put in at 6500 and now i see the oil it must have took some time for it to show.

 

yeap....not a single drop of anything...


you know when they say "hand tighten it", I used a allen wrench to twist the stud a little bit more cause it will still be loose even if you hand tighten...happened to my friends car too, but he retighten the stud w/a allen wrench and no leaks now...

 

Here is what I think.

If you drive your car normally like most do maybe it will not leak. However, if you put some stress on it will leak with APR one by one as they break the seal. Also some people wont see the issue and some will. Many so far have the issue so before installing these studs you must know that you are taking a risk.

 

I think the solution to this problem isn't for people to be weary of the part , but think twice about the method. Like Zeus said unless your quite familar with the process i wouldn't do the 1X1 method. It is a short cut that is unneccesary. I know saving money is a big plus when the car already costs so much but in the long run it is just safer to take it to a reputable shop and have them do it. Like Al said also, chage out the gasket while your in there. I would think it would be wise just to get all your head work done at one time (valvetrain and studs) so it prevents unneccesarily taking the risk of redamaging anything when you go in there. I will be putting the studs in ....definitly. The risk only comes into factor when not properly installing the part. So think once about the part ...twice about the installation method. My two cents.

 

I did mine the 1x1 method and have had no problems up to 34psi and 10k miles. I have never re-torqued them either.