bump for answers

 

depends on what method you use. i went along with the 1x1 method. i also used green loctite on the thread going into the block. ARP recommends to use some loctitie along with hand tightening them into the block. i used a allen wrench and snugged them into the block, waited about 10 minutes for the stud to cure, moly lubed the nut and washer, then torqued to spec. waited 2 minutes on same stud and rechecked torque. once they were all replaced, i waited 20 minutes and rechecked torque on all studs. no leaks, no worries, no problems...

i also think that peoples definition of "hand tight" varies. most would just snug it up and forget it. loctite it with green so you can still get it out later on if need be, but it wont come loose. just choose your poison and go for it. it is def. not for the average joe, as Zeus pointed out, to do.

total time for me was about 2.2 hours. start to finish. (removing the coils, wires, accessories off the valve cover, removing the valve cover, clearing away old oil around the head bolts, prepping the head studs, washers, nuts, prepping the torque wrench, etc...)

i really think that there are mixed reviews about this install method. as well as "needing" head studs as Al, Dave, Zeus, and myself will all agree that it is a safe guard IF you plan to upgrade to more boost, bigger turbo, or changing the head gasket. not everyone "needs" headstuds. if it is apart, why not replace them with a better part??

 

can someone explain the 1x1 method? is it breaking loose the bolts/inserting studs as you go 1 at a time, or breaking loose all the bolts 1st, then back out bolt/inserting studs 1 at a time?

 

break one(in sequence of torquing down the head bolts), remove that bolt, insert one head stud, retorque, wait, recheck torque, move on to the next one. 1x1 method

 

Ok, so we're talking 2 - 2.5 hours for the 1x1 method...

How long to do it the "correct" method? I'm asking because I'm going to have Victor Research do mine and I'm curious about how much it will run me.

 

there are many cars that are completely stock that have this strange oil leak from the rear of the motor I dont think it has anything to do with the installation of ARPS 1 by 1.

 

I was talking about Evos having untouched OE head bolts having the same leak...

 

they will probably do the one by one method. if you do the headgasket and such, it will cost you some $$ upwards of $300.00 for everything. headgasket, studs, various gaskets, labor, timing belt, balancer belt, etc. remember that if you chose this route, you have to pull the head which entails all or most of the accessories from the head itself.

the 1x1 method is just a less expensive alternative. it works properly if done right.

 

In my experience it is a gamble in doing the 1X1 method. It is not the professional way of doing things but it will work for some and not work for others. It seems the less miles the car has on it the less of a gamble it is. It doesn't matter if you do the process right either in the respect that you can do two cars the same, one will leak and one will not.

I personally don't recommend it but if it works it will save you money and a headache, if not just change the HG. There are shortcut ways of doing that as well without replacing all of the timing belt componets just as you can do with a cam install. Its not the complete professional way but once again it saves time and money and is less of a gamble than doing the 1X1 method and ending up with a leak.

When some of you pull the head of and start measuring it and its mateing surface you might see a few things that you were not aware off also. Those of you that have done this probably realize what I am talking about.

 

I love this thread.
Everyone was warned long ago that this was not the "approved" method but they still did it. I was one of those people who said don't do it but I did in fact do it myself and have done about 10 of them at this point all with different mileage, etc. Not one has leaked yet.
Why? Because to do the one by one method it must be done right and IMO a lot people take liberties with the proper method and just end up F'ing it up.

The only latitude I will offer to the early users was APR was giving out a spec of 70 ft. lbs. using thier lube. This is not enough torque! I believe they have since changed thier specs for the Evo.

Here is the most fool proof method of the 1X1 method...

I am not going to explain the entire procedure just the valid points.
The engine must be absolutely cold or ambient temperature!

1. Always remove the studs in the reverse torque order. You start around the outside, NOT the inside. I actually use a different torque pattern for torquing a head that looks like this
8 4 1 5 9
7 3 2 6 10

2. Remove the bolt and install the stud with NOTHING on the threads using a T-handle allen wrench so it is hand tight. Double check it to make sure it is seated fully. If there is any oil in the hole it will stop but not be seated, this is why you recheck it after a minute.

3. Put ARP lube on both sides of the washer and on the face of the nut. (This assumes you put ARP lube on all the top ends of the studs already) The best procedure is to load up your palm with arp lube and rub the studs, washers, and nuts in it. There is no such thing as too much lube.

4. Using a quality torque wrench (ie Snap-on, MAC) torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs.
Back off and remove all tension on nut. Retorque to 45 and back off, retourque to 55 and back off, retorque to 65 and back off, final torque to 75 ft. lbs.

Repeat procedure for all other studs. When finished set the torque wrench to 85 ft. lbs. and torque all the studs in the normal order from the inside out.
That's it. I have never retorqued after a heat cycle although it is recommended, I don't feel it is necessary with this procedure.

A word on torque wrenches. If you can buy it at Pep Boys it is useless! A torque wrench is not something to skimp on, should be cared for as if it were made of glass (Don't drop it!) and should be recalibrated after 2 years of service depending on usage and whether it has been dropped.
Click-type torque wrenches are not as accurate as beam-type wrenches. The problem is there is too much user error with beam-type but they are the most accurate measure of torque. Click-type sees a lot of user error too but is more fool proof to a novice user.

 

Almost every aluminum cylinder head will be warped up to 1 thousanth after being removed even if it has never been overheated or anything. Every aluminum head should be checked and resurface once removed.

 

I think it’s so funny that some people really know that others do things incorrect but aren't afraid to give credit to only themselves. And I am not talking about the head, it is usually fine. I do realize there are tolerances to each piece.

Stop contradicting yourself, as you say it’s not a completely accurate way of doing things so there is a small amount of risk.

 

Man I believing changing studs is just added insurance and I wouldn't change them unless the head comes out. I've been running in the 370hp range on pump for about 2 years at 22psi ******* the car every where I go and my head is fine and let me tell you I beat her like a bastard child lol! Plus there's several guys running stock studs on GT35r and there fine. So because one persons head failed once doesn't mean that All will. Every motor is diffrent in its own way

 

Now I wouldn't run 30psi or something like 600hp with out changing them but for now I'm straight

 

I know one guy that blew a motor just from running a intake and tbe he leaned out. But yet I know of a lot of people that never had a problem including my self so you can't say that every one is gonna have the same problem that just one person had. I mean its a possibility but not 100% sure that all are heads will stretch as soon as you hit 350hp just like its a possibility that my motor will blow up at 22psi on pump