Engine Break in
Engine Break in
So I've read about the different techniques on this forum. I'm still not sure as to what benifits versus the costs of say changing the oil at 1000 miles as opposed to changing the oil at 3500. Or changing to non synthetic at 1000 miles and then changing back at 3500 miles. Any options and/or opinions? and why
And to the flamers out there, I have tried to search it. The search actually crashed my computer.
And to the flamers out there, I have tried to search it. The search actually crashed my computer.
keep it out of the high RPM's for about 1000 miles then change the oil...the reason for this is to get and shavings and small debris out of that brand new engine. I did it this way and my engine doesnt burn a drop of oil
My Break-in Technique:
Use non-synthetic oil 10w30 for the first 1500 miles...
First 100-150 miles:
Easy driving, no boost, rev to 3500 rpm, stay under 50 mph & vary rpm. No down shifting or engine compression coming to a stop, change oil when you reach 150mph..new filter & use same non-synthetic oil....this get's debris out.
150-300 miles:
Pretty much the same as above, but I increase the rpm to 4000 rpm, and rev 1st & and 2nd gear quicker to 4000 rpm to put some pressure on the rings to help them seat "no boost though" and go to a max of 60 miles...still no down shifting or and I do apply light engine compression.
300-600 miles
Light boost, 5-8 psi, rev engine quickly up to 4000 rpm, max of 60 mph still, light engine compression, then change oil at 600 miles replace with new oil filter & non-synthetic oil.
600-1000 miles
Same as '300-600' miles but I increase the rev's to 5000 rpm after 750 mile mark for the remaining 1000 miles and increase top speed to 75 mph.
1000 miles...let her rip!! Still no hard downshifting or engine compression though...I usually wait till 1300-1500 miles to shift HARD.
This technique works for me...
Use non-synthetic oil 10w30 for the first 1500 miles...
First 100-150 miles:
Easy driving, no boost, rev to 3500 rpm, stay under 50 mph & vary rpm. No down shifting or engine compression coming to a stop, change oil when you reach 150mph..new filter & use same non-synthetic oil....this get's debris out.
150-300 miles:
Pretty much the same as above, but I increase the rpm to 4000 rpm, and rev 1st & and 2nd gear quicker to 4000 rpm to put some pressure on the rings to help them seat "no boost though" and go to a max of 60 miles...still no down shifting or and I do apply light engine compression.
300-600 miles
Light boost, 5-8 psi, rev engine quickly up to 4000 rpm, max of 60 mph still, light engine compression, then change oil at 600 miles replace with new oil filter & non-synthetic oil.
600-1000 miles
Same as '300-600' miles but I increase the rev's to 5000 rpm after 750 mile mark for the remaining 1000 miles and increase top speed to 75 mph.
1000 miles...let her rip!! Still no hard downshifting or engine compression though...I usually wait till 1300-1500 miles to shift HARD.
This technique works for me...
Yeah I would not switch to non-synthetic at all. Just go easy for the first 500 miles, like the manual says, then let her go. I do change it at 1k then 3k though like people say just to keep it extra clean in the beginning.
Oh, for heaven's sake guys. NO EARLY OIL CHANGES. Mitsu puts additive in your first round of oil and everyone I've talked to about it says you need to leave it in there until the manual says to change it. Mitsubishi may be an ***, but they are the ones monitarily responsible for the rediculously long warranty. It's absolutely in their best interest to make your engine last as long as they can.
Logic here, it's easy.
Logic here, it's easy.
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Now that you said that I take back my first oil change, I didn't do it this time in the Evo, I was thinking of my previous car. I've got 50k miles now and not a single problem, 3k mile oil changes from the start, that's it.



. use synthetic like 