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Engine Break in

Old May 15, 2006 | 09:11 AM
  #1  
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From: Tucson
Engine Break in

So I've read about the different techniques on this forum. I'm still not sure as to what benifits versus the costs of say changing the oil at 1000 miles as opposed to changing the oil at 3500. Or changing to non synthetic at 1000 miles and then changing back at 3500 miles. Any options and/or opinions? and why

And to the flamers out there, I have tried to search it. The search actually crashed my computer.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 09:14 AM
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From: Long Island, NY
keep it out of the high RPM's for about 1000 miles then change the oil...the reason for this is to get and shavings and small debris out of that brand new engine. I did it this way and my engine doesnt burn a drop of oil
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:13 AM
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From: iN dI CaRiBbEaN
My Break-in Technique:

Use non-synthetic oil 10w30 for the first 1500 miles...

First 100-150 miles:

Easy driving, no boost, rev to 3500 rpm, stay under 50 mph & vary rpm. No down shifting or engine compression coming to a stop, change oil when you reach 150mph..new filter & use same non-synthetic oil....this get's debris out.

150-300 miles:

Pretty much the same as above, but I increase the rpm to 4000 rpm, and rev 1st & and 2nd gear quicker to 4000 rpm to put some pressure on the rings to help them seat "no boost though" and go to a max of 60 miles...still no down shifting or and I do apply light engine compression.

300-600 miles

Light boost, 5-8 psi, rev engine quickly up to 4000 rpm, max of 60 mph still, light engine compression, then change oil at 600 miles replace with new oil filter & non-synthetic oil.

600-1000 miles

Same as '300-600' miles but I increase the rev's to 5000 rpm after 750 mile mark for the remaining 1000 miles and increase top speed to 75 mph.

1000 miles...let her rip!! Still no hard downshifting or engine compression though...I usually wait till 1300-1500 miles to shift HARD.


This technique works for me...
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:26 AM
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From: Evergreen state
Engines are test run @ . use synthetic like tells you to use.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:29 AM
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From: Tulsa, OK
just wondering... what do you mean by engine compression
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:31 AM
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From: Golden, CO
Yeah I would not switch to non-synthetic at all. Just go easy for the first 500 miles, like the manual says, then let her go. I do change it at 1k then 3k though like people say just to keep it extra clean in the beginning.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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From: Left Coast
Oh, for heaven's sake guys. NO EARLY OIL CHANGES. Mitsu puts additive in your first round of oil and everyone I've talked to about it says you need to leave it in there until the manual says to change it. Mitsubishi may be an ***, but they are the ones monitarily responsible for the rediculously long warranty. It's absolutely in their best interest to make your engine last as long as they can.

Logic here, it's easy.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:35 AM
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From: Golden, CO
Now that you said that I take back my first oil change, I didn't do it this time in the Evo, I was thinking of my previous car. I've got 50k miles now and not a single problem, 3k mile oil changes from the start, that's it.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:36 AM
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From: Left Coast
Oh, and no non-synthetic. The speed in the turbo bearing will bake conventional oil to a crisp and your turbo will never work correctly after that.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:39 AM
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From: iN dI CaRiBbEaN
BTW..my engine was just re-built..forgot to mention that
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:53 AM
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From: Dirty Jersey
drive for 30-40 miles and put varying loads on engine to let the rings seat...and then let 'er rip!
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