Invidia O2 Housing Install - O2 Sensor Cable Problem
Originally Posted by evolved4g63
A vr-4 3000gt sensor/ harness plugs right in to ours. Plus the wires are 6-9 inches longer. Only helps if you have one laying around or something like i did. Not sure of a new price.
Originally Posted by trinydex
^ part number? it'd be great to order these or have people distributing the invidia o2 to package them together.
Sensor wires are 60cm or 23.6inches. Its prolly not as long as i originally thought. But is a few inches longer than the stocker. Prices range from 60 to 100. I will verify that part # later today.
try www.oxygensensors.com for the 3000gt O2s, it ranges from 70$ - 100$. they list VR-4s and twinturbos O2s seperately, not sure which is which.(i thought VR-4s was TT)
I'm working with Casper's to get the O2 harness i just put the O2 and Full Race mani on my car and should have a harness by the end of the week. And I'll take the Invidia O2 any day before I pay $450 for the Works O2.
Almost got the Harness done but Casper's will need an O2 sensor to pin point the plug we need i'm going to try and find one here but if not can some one find a bad one or an extra one to send them so we can get the O2 harness done.
Originally Posted by evolved4g63
MD164423.
Sensor wires are 60cm or 23.6inches. Its prolly not as long as i originally thought. But is a few inches longer than the stocker. Prices range from 60 to 100. I will verify that part # later today.
Sensor wires are 60cm or 23.6inches. Its prolly not as long as i originally thought. But is a few inches longer than the stocker. Prices range from 60 to 100. I will verify that part # later today.
I also had a problem soldering the o2 wires. The wire was heated up, the solder would just roll right off of the wire. I also tried flux or whatever it is, and that did not help at all. I gave up and I just crimped the wires with butt connectors, and put the wires under the carpet with the o2 sim.
has anyone tried scorching hte coating off? it's a coating... rosin core solder has flux in it and automatically fluxes metal. fluxed metal should hold solder. coated metal may not... you have to scorch the coating off.
Originally Posted by trinydex
has anyone tried scorching hte coating off? it's a coating... rosin core solder has flux in it and automatically fluxes metal. fluxed metal should hold solder. coated metal may not... you have to scorch the coating off.
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Originally Posted by Spec'd
Gee such fitment and quality.
I guess you get what you pay for.
I'm glad I'll be going with something that fits properly... WORKS .
I guess you get what you pay for.
I'm glad I'll be going with something that fits properly... WORKS .
When I do my cost benefit analysis, I'm rolling the dice with the Invidia. 10hp - if that, is not worth the 450
I guess I'm used to working through small issues like this on some aftermarket stuff.
Personally I'll take the 200 bucks in my pocket, or whatever the diff ends up being. I also like the the divider in the Invidia myself. Once we get things figured out, others can benefit from the solution. Some guys had no trouble at all.
Invidia Could and SHOULD have looked in to this issue though. I wouldn't mind paying a reasonable price from an extension - that's just how my car came - not their fault - if fact, who knows? ... maybe the car(s) that they tested it on didn't have the problem.
The fitment is a non issue with alot of downpipes (probably no more than with the Works piece).
As far as getting the bolts and nuts tightened, I took the hotside and O2 housing off the car, so it wasn't a big deal at all. you just spin the one nut that's cramped down tight and finish it off with an open end wrench. I still don't understand the problems anybody had with that, unless they were trying to do it on the car. (I was not aware that the O2 housing could be replaced with just the DP removed - if infact it can.)
I haven't done any searches recently to see what, if any, gains these things provided. That is the real question. But I should be able to get some kind of feel for it, once I get things together again and test it.
Originally Posted by nirvevo
Well Kudos for you :-) , it's really not a big issue though.
When I do my cost benefit analysis, I'm rolling the dice with the Invidia. 10hp - if that, is not worth the 450
I guess I'm used to working through small issues like this on some aftermarket stuff.
Personally I'll take the 200 bucks in my pocket, or whatever the diff ends up being. I also like the the divider in the Invidia myself. Once we get things figured out, others can benefit from the solution. Some guys had no trouble at all.
Invidia Could and SHOULD have looked in to this issue though. I wouldn't mind paying a reasonable price from an extension - that's just how my car came - not their fault - if fact, who knows? ... maybe the car(s) that they tested it on didn't have the problem.
The fitment is a non issue with alot of downpipes (probably no more than with the Works piece).
As far as getting the bolts and nuts tightened, I took the hotside and O2 housing off the car, so it wasn't a big deal at all. you just spin the one nut that's cramped down tight and finish it off with an open end wrench. I still don't understand the problems anybody had with that, unless they were trying to do it on the car. (I was not aware that the O2 housing could be replaced with just the DP removed - if infact it can.)
I haven't done any searches recently to see what, if any, gains these things provided. That is the real question. But I should be able to get some kind of feel for it, once I get things together again and test it.
When I do my cost benefit analysis, I'm rolling the dice with the Invidia. 10hp - if that, is not worth the 450
I guess I'm used to working through small issues like this on some aftermarket stuff.
Personally I'll take the 200 bucks in my pocket, or whatever the diff ends up being. I also like the the divider in the Invidia myself. Once we get things figured out, others can benefit from the solution. Some guys had no trouble at all.
Invidia Could and SHOULD have looked in to this issue though. I wouldn't mind paying a reasonable price from an extension - that's just how my car came - not their fault - if fact, who knows? ... maybe the car(s) that they tested it on didn't have the problem.
The fitment is a non issue with alot of downpipes (probably no more than with the Works piece).
As far as getting the bolts and nuts tightened, I took the hotside and O2 housing off the car, so it wasn't a big deal at all. you just spin the one nut that's cramped down tight and finish it off with an open end wrench. I still don't understand the problems anybody had with that, unless they were trying to do it on the car. (I was not aware that the O2 housing could be replaced with just the DP removed - if infact it can.)
I haven't done any searches recently to see what, if any, gains these things provided. That is the real question. But I should be able to get some kind of feel for it, once I get things together again and test it.
.
Here is a simple solution that I saw personally the other night on one of my buddy's car. I will try it on my car when I get the chance.
MOVE the wiring from the left side of the valve cover too the right side of the valve cover. This requires cutting the large black plastic loom just above the valve cover and injectors. Just tape it back up when you are done. By moving the O2 sensor wiring to the other side, this will provide more slack for the wire so it won't touch the heat shield or turbo.
Hope this helps.
MOVE the wiring from the left side of the valve cover too the right side of the valve cover. This requires cutting the large black plastic loom just above the valve cover and injectors. Just tape it back up when you are done. By moving the O2 sensor wiring to the other side, this will provide more slack for the wire so it won't touch the heat shield or turbo.
Hope this helps.


