Calling Warrtalon or anyone who knows what there doing, Plug question
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: back left stand up
Calling Warrtalon or anyone who knows what there doing, Plug question
Ok I feel like Im using that light they use in Gothem to get ahold of Batman ya know, Its way cool. So anyways, I know I need to change my plugs once I start using Alky injection, I just dont know which ones to go with. Here are the list of Mods: 3" full exhaust/hi flow cat/intake/ebc/huge fmic/264 cams/walbro 255
Also Im at 6500+ feet. We only have 91 octane. And im setting the boost at 24 pounds...
Also Im at 6500+ feet. We only have 91 octane. And im setting the boost at 24 pounds...
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: back left stand up
Originally Posted by ExViTermini
BPR7ES is what I used on 29psi stock turbo 93/alky. Worked fine for me. If you want to go one step colder use a BPR8ES.
I dont even think my stock turbo would make it to 29psi way up here. Must be nice lol
I believe for every 50 hp increase you want to go one heat range colder which would be bpr8es or bpr9es.
Many will argue that you dont have to but it is to help with detonation etc.
There is one member here that has gotten his car into the 11's with race gas and is adement about using the BPR9ix iridiums.
Many will argue that you dont have to but it is to help with detonation etc.
There is one member here that has gotten his car into the 11's with race gas and is adement about using the BPR9ix iridiums.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: back left stand up
Originally Posted by SKILMATIC
29psi on stocker? You guys are crazy.
OK here is some info that I pulled from NGK's website.
I would go with the BPr8es or the BPR8 irridiums. You can try going colder but I would start with the 8's
Heat range
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
I would go with the BPr8es or the BPR8 irridiums. You can try going colder but I would start with the 8's
Heat range
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
We all know what a heat range is. But thanks for the cut and paste. Just be sure to put quotes around it for now on.
Also you dont want to use iridiums or platinum tip plugs when running that high of boost with alky.
TONZ OF FUN, like I said you want to take your stockers out and go 2 steps colder from there. For me, when I go to the track because its been hot lately and I just recently increased the boost to 1.5bar with race gas I went 1 step colder. However if I were to increase it to 1.72 bar with race gas and alky then 2 steps would be needed. Hope this helps.
Also you dont want to use iridiums or platinum tip plugs when running that high of boost with alky.
TONZ OF FUN, like I said you want to take your stockers out and go 2 steps colder from there. For me, when I go to the track because its been hot lately and I just recently increased the boost to 1.5bar with race gas I went 1 step colder. However if I were to increase it to 1.72 bar with race gas and alky then 2 steps would be needed. Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by SKILMATIC
We all know what a heat range is. But thanks for the cut and paste. Just be sure to put quotes around it for now on.
Also you dont want to use iridiums or platinum tip plugs when running that high of boost with alky.
TONZ OF FUN, like I said you want to take your stockers out and go 2 steps colder from there. For me, when I go to the track because its been hot lately and I just recently increased the boost to 1.5bar with race gas I went 1 step colder. However if I were to increase it to 1.72 bar with race gas and alky then 2 steps would be needed. Hope this helps.
Also you dont want to use iridiums or platinum tip plugs when running that high of boost with alky.
TONZ OF FUN, like I said you want to take your stockers out and go 2 steps colder from there. For me, when I go to the track because its been hot lately and I just recently increased the boost to 1.5bar with race gas I went 1 step colder. However if I were to increase it to 1.72 bar with race gas and alky then 2 steps would be needed. Hope this helps.
the info also states what I was speaking of earlier in how to determine when you need to go to a colder plug and why.